Brioni Fall 2025: Introducing a New Elongated Silhouette
Brioni is expanding the range of its womenswear and creative director Norbert Stumpfl is very much aware of what he needs to do to make it work. “It’s really important to stick to what we do best, our really classic menswear, so we are always incorporating menswear details in all our garments,” he said. He stayed true to this vision and presented, for example, an elongated safari jacket, turned into a dress.
In fact, the silhouette was all-around long and streamlined. Showing a black cashmere jacket, he said the shape of the shoulder was new, with a small and rounded shoulder inspired by a cocoon, but with a comfortable fit, he underscored. “There is always structure but lightness at the same time,” he added. Comfort and lightness remain the designer’s guidelines, in addition to the most precious fabrics.
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Cue a short cashmere jacket in white, which he said is one of the most precious colors in this fabric “because it needs a perfectly clean factory, without any dust left by the machines when it is produced, so it’s very rare,” he said.
Blouses were also made from men’s shirting fabrics, and Stumpfl recovered and revisited a raglan construction from the archives, dating from the ’50s and ’60s, for sophisticated cabans and military jackets.
He played with proportions, displaying short cabans over long fluid skirts. A cape in the vicuna color was made in brushed cashmere.
Stumpfl sought versatility, showing a sleeveless dress that can be worn with a turtleneck or as a top over pants.
The silhouette was elongated for evening, too, seen in a beautiful silk column dress hand-embroidered with 3D floral motifs by the Penne artisans; a coatdress in silk with sequins and a double-breasted coat with a cashmere scarf, and a T-shirt dress in opaque silk duchesse.
The designer is as passionate about Brioni’s womenswear as he is about the men’s segment and it showed as the collection was cohesive, in sync with what the brand’s customer is looking for and, in a word, covetable.
Launch Gallery: Brioni Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
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