The backdrop of Chanel’s Métiers d’Arts pre-fall 2025 collection, held in in Hangzhou, China, was a golden pagoda that seemed to sit like a jewel box on an island in the center of the mythical West Lake. Just after sunset, traditional drums began to beat on the catwalk. Over 1,200 guests, including Tilda Swinton, were ferried to the location on private wooden boats.
The large 19th-century Coromandel lacquered screen in the study of Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment at 31 rue Cambon in Paris served as the inspiration for this latest collection. Though she never visited China, the chinoiserie style played a huge role in the house’s aesthetic. Here in Hangzhou, the cradle of the silk trade, we were treated to a show that seamlessly melded the two together.
There were ’60s knit twin sets in all shades of pastels, silk pajama sets paired with little jackets (a nod to the Hollywood starlets of Coco’s day), and the chicest tweed skirt suits in black and white.
And, of course, the accessories were on point. The quilted box styles, mini crescent shapes, and travel bags are all you need this season. Over-the-knee black patent boots, silk knee-high boots with a quirky quilted wedge heel, and black leather slingback sandals all made me want to snap them up. A personal favorite? The black patent leather opera-length gloves, which just looked oh-so-cool styled with a patent quilted box bag.
There was definitely something for everyone to love here. The versatility of this collection will stand the test of time, just as the ancient crafts of this city have continued to inspire designers today.
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