How to plan a ‘babymoon’ right in your own backyard
(photo: Simone Olivero)
2016 has been a tough year to be pregnant.
Between the overwhelming heat waves (anyone else wishing it didn’t “feel like” 38 C?), continuing outbreak of the Zika virus and the poor performance of the Canadian dollar, planning a romantic getaway with your honey before your little one arrives has never been more challenging. That is, unless you decide to stay local.
When my husband and I first found out we were expecting, we were naturally super excited, but also a little concerned considering how much we tend to travel. While the last few years have taken us through Europe, Asia, Kenya, South America and the Caribbean, suddenly, a whole chunk of the globe was deemed off limits to me by my OB – mostly due to fears of Zika and its link to birth defects. To add insult to injury, the Canadian dollar saw some of it’s weakest days, making a quick jaunt across the border feel like an unexpected splurge.
Like many Canadians, both expecting and otherwise, we realized this might not be the best time for international travel. Instead, we turned our sights to somewhere a little more local. Teaming up with Le Germain Hotels, we planned a five-day adventure through French Canada packed with culture, food, stunning sights and lots of relaxation and TLC.
Québec City
Breakfast at Le Germain. (photo: Simone Olivero)
Our first stop was Québec City, French Canada’s capital and a less than a two hour plane ride from Toronto’s city airport. While the flight may have been quick, it’s incredible how different this city feels from anywhere else in Canada.
Our hotel was located on the pretty Vieux-Port, just below the steep climb leading up to the iconic Chateau Frontenac. If you plan to rent a car during your stay – which I would highly recommend so you can see beyond just the city – the Le Germain has above-ground parking (and a handy valet to help if you get confused navigating all of the one way streets). They also serve a really delicious continental breakfast which will fuel you up for the day so you can focus your efforts on the big meals – like cheese-o-clock, croissant-o-clock, lunch and dinner.
Though we didn’t realize it at the time, we ended up picking one of the busiest weekends to visit the city with Festibière de Québec, the Québec City Celtic Festival and Crépuscule, a free circus show were all going on during our stay. There were also nightly fireworks – as if they knew we were celebrating.
The Old City. (photo: Simone Olivero)
An installation from the Passages Insolites exhibit scattered throughout the old city. (photo: Simone Olivero)
It had been just over 10 years since I’d last visited, so we spent most of the first day wandering around the Old City, which honestly, is just so pretty. We made two obligatory stops: one to the iconic Chateau Frontenac, and another to La Maison Simons for a little retail therapy.
Chateau Frontinac. (photo: Simone Olivero)
That night we headed through the tunnel to Limoilou, one of the city’s oldest boroughs, to La Planque, a trendy little gastropub that serves up tasty local fare including tartar, duck and pork. They also have an adorable virgin cocktail list that’s kept in a baby bottle so it was a pretty perfect way to start our babycation.
The virgin cocktail list at La Planque. (photo: Simone Olivero)
On the advice of our hotel concierge, our second day in Québec took us to Île d'Orléans, a rural island a short five kilometre drive from the city. We headed straight to the Vignoble Ste-Pétronille winery where the famous Restaurant Panache has set up a food truck selling tasty treats like poutine with duck confit, a locally sourced burger and a generously robust lobster roll. If you don’t happen to be pregnant, you can grab a glass (or bottle) of wine from the shop next door to enjoy with your lunch.
Lunch at Panache Mobile. (photo: Simone Olivero)
Other worthwhile stops on the island include Cassis Monna & Filles, 3 poules à l’île and a few good chocolate and cheese shops. There are also tons of fresh fruit stands selling berries and other fresh fruits and vegetables along the road, depending on the season.
Fresh roadside strawberries. (photo: Simone Olivero)
Charlevoix
Once we’d had our fill of the city, we made our way northeast to Charlevoix, a pretty rural region wedged between the Saint Lawrence River and Laurentian Mountains.
We headed to Baie-Saint-Paul, the seat of the region and the town where Cirque du Soleil first got it’s start back in the ‘80s. At that time, it was referred to as the “La Fete Foraine de Baie-Saint-Paul,” co-created by buskers Guy Laliberté and Gilles Ste-Croix.
A Highland cow on the property. (photo: Simone Olivero)
After the success of Soleil, the former president of the circus, Daniel Gauthier returned to Baie-Saint-Paul where he purchased a massive farm. Set on a large plot of open land with pigs, sheep, Highland cows and ducks in the summer months, the farm was transformed into a hotel – now run by Le Germain.
We chose to arrive by car but the best ways to reach the hotel is via train, which comes directly from Québec City and travels along the water. It literally stops right at the hotel before continuing on to La Malbaie.
Train pulling into Charlevoix. (Alain Blanchette/Tourisme-Charlevoix)
Upon arrival, the hotel greeted us with the sweetest welcome: a little dish with edible baby booties and some delicious homemade marshmallows. The first thing you notice when you arrive is that the hotel has more of a resort feel with different types of accommodations spread out across multiple buildings – and lots of people wandering around in robes. There’s also an onsite spa, three restaurants and an outdoor farmer’s market on Saturdays. In the winter, I’m told they set up a pretty skating rink near the main building where the trees are full of twinkle lights.
Our baby-friendly welcome at Le Germain. (photo: Simone Olivero)
While there’s plenty to do at the hotel itself, we decided to explore a little further by taking a drive over to Isle-aux-Coudres and renting bikes to see the island up close.
Please note: I’m pretty active for a pregnant woman and commute daily by bike so unless this is you, you might want to stay in the car to explore the island.
Getting to the island involves a short 15-minute ferry ride, which is free for you and your car. If you’re lucky, you may spot seals or even a beluga whale while you’re crossing. Once you arrive, it’s about 28 kilometres to loop the island with all kinds of adorable attractions to keep you occupied.
The view from the ferry to Isle-aux-Coudres. (photo: Simone Olivero)
Cycling around the island and practicing dad skills with a trailer full of picnic lunches. (photo: Simone Olivero)
A trip to the island isn’t complete without visiting the recently renovated Cidrerie et Vergers Pedneault. Open for more than 75 years, it’s like a winery for apples with an extensive selection of ciders, vinegars, mistelles (fortified wine), apéritifs and confectionary products.
After sampling (or mostly smelling, in my case) pretty much everything on offer, we then made our way to the Boulangerie Bouchard, which is considered one of the best bakeries in the region. When you’re there you have to pick up one of the famous paté croche, a turnover-style meat pie – apparently more than 20,000 people make the trip out to the island just for this.
Map of La Route Des Saveurs.
Because this region is such a haven for foodies, visitors can follow the “Flavour Trail,” which has 38 tasty stops spanning across Baie-Saint-Paul, Malbaie and Saint-Siméon. Everything from wine, duck, charcuterie, bread, cheese and chocolate will leave you tastebuds in a tizzy.
With bellies busting, we made our way back Le Germain where I headed to the Spa Du Verger for a Mom2Be massage and my husband to the relaxing thermal spa, which has a Finnish sauna, eucalyptus steam room, snow fountain and hot and cold outdoor pools. If we were feeling even slightly sore from our rigorous ride around Isle-aux-Coudres, it was melted away within minutes of being at the spa.
Cooling off at the outdoor pool. (photo: Simone Olivero)
Roasting marshmallows at the nightly hotel fire pit. (photo: Simone Olivero)
Having treated ourselves to smoked salmon, duck magret, local goat and too many sweets to name at the onsite restaurant, Les Labours, the night prior, we headed into to town to the bustling Mouton Noir.
Hailing from Brittany, France, the owner and chef is known for making some of the most creative combinations using the local fare. His massive cocotte is not to be missed, filled with warm pork stew and topped with a flakey crust.
After five days and four nights of amazing food, rich culture and a healthy dose of spoiling, we had a hard time convincing ourselves that we hadn’t crossed international borders. While there’s still a long way to go in preparing ourselves for the next adventure that awaits (oh right, baby!), at least we can do so with clearer heads – and satisfied tummies.
