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I visited Turkey during its state of emergency, and you should too

Blue Mosque, Istanbul. [Photo: Erica Rae Chong]
Blue Mosque, Istanbul. [Photo: Erica Rae Chong]

The Topkapi Palace, once the grand home to Ottoman sultans and now a museum and top tourist sight, has been partially closed to the public recently due to deep cracks found in its basement and treasury room.

Local media report that parts of the historical icon risks collapse due to “years of neglect of historical heritage.” But on my trip to Turkey, it was clear the palatial grounds weren’t the only thing experiencing duress.

Over time, the nation too has found itself increasingly fractured, divided into split camps. Shias and Sunnis, secularists and conservative Muslims, and most recently after July’s attempted coup, supporters of President Recep Tayyip Erdogan and sympathizers of his opposition.

The failed coup left 265 dead and over 1,440 injured. This came just two weeks after another deadly event — terrorists stormed Atatürk Airport on June 28, setting off two explosions, killing 41 and injuring more than 200. Following these incidents, the Turkish government declared a state of emergency and a few days before I visited Istanbul, it was announced that the state of emergency was to be extended for another three months.

Couple this with a series of unfortunate attacks (at least 16 separate attacks across the country this year alone), and it’s easy to paint Turkey with the same strife that colours its neighbouring countries like Syria and Iraq.

The few people who knew about my travel plans asked if I was crazy. I hardly told anyone — partially because I didn’t want anyone to worry about me, but also perhaps because I didn’t want to lose my nerve.

After all, Canada issued a travel advisory for Turkey, urging travelers to “exercise a high degree of caution due to crime, the threat of terrorist attacks and ongoing demonstrations throughout the country.” Travel within 10km of the border with Syria should be avoided, likewise for some south-eastern provinces.

Armed guards at Atatürk Airport in Istanbul, Turkey. [Photo: Erica Rae Chong]
Armed guards at Atatürk Airport in Istanbul, Turkey. [Photo: Erica Rae Chong]

I landed at Atatürk Airport to a flurry of text messages asking if I was safe, including one from my sister with a liberal amount of question marks, demanding to know what I was doing in Istanbul along with a list of Turkey’s emergency numbers.

But aside from a few armed guards patrolling the airport, there was little else that gave away the attacks that took place here.

Once outside of the airport, the levels of normalcy were much higher. People lined up to get tickets for the metro, street vendors roasted chestnuts and hawked fresh pomegranate juice, teenagers took selfies on the street and men lined the sides of the Galata Bridge with fishing lines cast into the Bosphorus river while ferries chugged by beneath them.

Things were calm, almost surprisingly so. I retreated to my hotel and slept better that evening than I did all week.

In the morning, I returned to the Galata bridge and crossed over to the Eminonu quarter, a bustling hub where trains, trams, buses and ferries intersect. It’s here that I began my exploration of Istanbul — with my stomach.

I had signed on for a food tour with Istanbul On Food to get a taste of local life and a crash course on Turkey’s traditional fare.

A variety of tomato or pepper-based spices at the Spice Bazaar. These are the foundation of most Turkish food. [Photo: Erica Rae Chong]
A variety of tomato or pepper-based spices at the Spice Bazaar. These are the foundation of most Turkish food. [Photo: Erica Rae Chong]

We started by taking a stroll through the Spice Bazaar, one of the largest markets in the city and the center of Istanbul’s spice trade for more than 350 years.

Walking through the market was an assault on your senses — spices like cinnamon, peppers and sumac perfumed the air while store fronts displayed colourful collections of loose teas, soaps and more varieties of lokum (Turkish Delight) than you could count.

Our guide Korhan Karakoyun explained the history of the bazaar as we walked, pausing to point out commonly-used local ingredients while picking dishes to compose a traditional Turkish breakfast.

This included simit (a circular bread encrusted with sesame seeds), a variety of local cheeses, olives and sausage, menemen (a Turkish version of scrambled eggs) and fresh hazelnut paste, which I dare says tastes better than Nutella, all washed down with the ubiquitous Turkish black tea.

Traditional Turkish breakfast. Clockwise from top left corner: sucuk (Turkish sausage), bal kaymak (crema made from buffalo's milk in honey), variety of cheeses, simit (bread with sesame seeds), olives and findik ezmesi (hazelnut paste). A variety of tomato or pepper-based spices at the Spice Bazaar. These are the foundation of most Turkish food. [Photo: Erica Rae Chong]

I had skipped breakfast in anticipation of the many treats ahead but that wasn’t enough to prepare me for what was to come.

If eating were an Olympic sport, this was the marathon.

“We’re eating about 15 to 20 different dishes at over 10 places,” said our guide Korhan Karakoyun. “So the key is to pace yourself.”

I should have taken that advice more seriously — but it’s hard to when each new bite was tastier than the one before.

After eating a little too much (I blame the Turkish Nutella), we hopped on a ferry to continue our eating escapades in Kadikoy — the Anatolian, or Asian, side of Istanbul. Istanbul is the only major city to straddles two continents, Europe and Asia, between which runs the Bosphorus.

I watched as the cityscape rolled by, a mix of old Byzantine architecture and new glassy buildings, all the while thinking “I can’t believe that in a matter of minutes I’d be on a completely different continent.” I might have mused out loud because moments later Karakoyun piped up.

“I can’t believe it,” he said, signalling to a row of shops along the bank. “This time last year there were so many cruise ships you can’t even see those shops. Now there’s nothing.”

Guess things still weren’t as normal as they looked.

Clockwise from top left: Midye (stuffed mussels), kokorec (slow roasted lamb or goat intestines), freshly-baked baguettes, a woman making fresh puff pastry. [Photo: Erica Rae Chong]
Clockwise from top left: Midye (stuffed mussels), kokorec (slow roasted lamb or goat intestines), freshly-baked baguettes, a woman making fresh puff pastry. [Photo: Erica Rae Chong]

Once on Kadikoy, the marathon resumed. We visited grill houses where we sampled juicy kebabs, dessert shops with candied tomatoes and walnuts, and strolled through markets where we saw fresh puff pastry being made, simit being baked and fishmongers laying out the catch of the day.

For the adventurous, try kokorec (slow roasted lamb or goat intestines served in bread), tursu (pickled vegetables) and have a shot of pickle juice. All of which taste a lot better than they sound.

Dondurma and pistachio baklava at Mado cafe. [Photo: Erica Rae Chong]
Dondurma and pistachio baklava at Mado cafe. [Photo: Erica Rae Chong]

We ended the tour on a sweet note, indulging in a little baklava and dondurma (Turkish ice cream) at popular dessert chain Mado. Dondurma gets its famously creamy, almost chewy texture from salep (powdered orchid root) and even though I’ve spent the last six hours munching my way across two continents and my belly was about to explode, I had no problem making room for this sweet treat.

Since it was my first time in Istanbul, I made the obligatory journey to the heart of tourist central — the Sultanahmet district.

Named after Sultan Ahmet I, who famously built the Blue Mosque, the area is the historical core of Istanbul and used to be the center of the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman Empires. Tourists flock to monuments like Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, The Blue Mosque and, of course, the Grand Bazaar, although these days the crowds are noticeably thinner.

The sites are within walking distance of each other and collectively have enough history and Instagram-worthy architecture to dedicate a day to seeing. If you have the time, read up on the sites beforehand and spend a day leisurely exploring them. Or if you’re like me and have no intention of doing so (for the same reasons I never paid attention in history class), join one of the many city tours available for a relaxed and informative introduction to the city’s past.

I joined one by Daily Istanbul Tours that guided us through the main landmarks in the Old City starting with the arguably the crown jewel – the Blue Mosque.

Blue Mosque. [Photo: Erica Rae Chong]
Blue Mosque. [Photo: Erica Rae Chong]

Six graceful minarets surround its impressive facade but its interior is what will truly take your breath away. More than 20,000 blue tiles cover the mosque’s towering domes and pillars, covering them in intricate geometric or floral patterns. Over years of restoration and time, the majority of the tiles have lost their brilliant turquoise shade, but it doesn’t take away from the mosque’s grandeur. Dozens of stained glass windows flood the space with light and the floors are covered in plush crimson carpet on which people come from all over the world to pray on.

Although the adhan (call to prayer) rings out across the city from the mosque’s minarets five times each day, you can usually see people worshiping in the main hall at any time of day. But during the five daily prayers, the mosque is closed to non-worshippers for about a 30-minute period each time.

Before entering the mosque, men and women have to remove their shoes and be wearing modest attire. Women have to also ensure their heads and shoulders are covered, so remember to bring a scarf. (It’s useful to keep one in your purse at all times since this rule applies to any mosque you visit.) If you don’t have one, you can buy one from nearby tourist shops.

Hagia Sophia. [Photo: Erica Rae Chong]
Hagia Sophia. [Photo: Erica Rae Chong]

A short stroll away is the Hagia Sophia, a fitting representation of Istanbul itself. The basilica turned mosque turned museum has Greek Orthodox, Catholic and Islamic elements that can be seen across the massive marble-clad structure. Glittering gold mosaics and frescoes depicting Jesus Christ and Mary decorate the walls along with massive hanging Arabic medallions. Two bearing the names of Prophet Muhammad and Allah sit on either side of the prayer niche, which was moved slightly off-center to face Mecca instead of Jerusalem when the church fell to the Ottomans in 1453.

Topkapi Palace. [Photo: Erica Rae Chong]
Topkapi Palace. [Photo: Erica Rae Chong]

Also not to be missed is the Topkapi Palace, a few minutes walk from Hagia Sophia. The sheer size and luxurious finishes in the palace is overwhelming. It would take days to properly explore the four courtyards and dozens of rooms, all decorated in marble, gold and the most luxurious fabrics and tiles.

While there be sure to see the holy relics of Prophet Muhammad, tour the harem where the Sultan, Queen Mother, his wives and many concubines resided, visit the palace’s summer houses and take in the stunning river views.

Grand Bazaar. [Photo: Erica Rae Chong]
Grand Bazaar. [Photo: Erica Rae Chong]

We concluded the tour at the Grand Bazaar, a dizzying maze of 3,000-some vendors selling everything from gold and leather goods to local hand-crafted pottery and made-in-China imitation handbags. But while there were an abundance of stores and products to choose from, it wasn’t difficult to notice a shuttered store here and there as you navigated the market’s lanes.

The slump in tourism has been hard on the city with tourist attractions like the bazaar bearing the brunt of it. According to Turkey’s Ministry of Culture and Tourism, more than 5 million tourists visited Turkey in August last year. This year, that number plummeted by nearly 40 per cent to just more than 3 million.

Local media report that more than 600 stores have shuttered following the attacks with an estimated number of closures will total 1,500 by the end of the year. The bazaar which has traditionally been closed on Sunday is even considering adopting a seven-day work week in hopes of boosting tourism.

“We used to get hundreds of visitors a day. Now I’ve lost about 90 per cent of my business and this is usually the peak season. I’ve had to slash my prices,” said a pottery salesman. “But I have faith and I hope that things will get better, Inshallah.”

I bought a teapot and miraculously found my way out of the labyrinth. The sun was setting and the adhan rang out in the air once again. I’m not the religious sort but I closed my eyes as I listened to the hypnotizing prayer and hoped the salesman was right.

On my last day in Istanbul, I resolved to be bold and cast off my inhibitions (and clothes) at Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı.

The luxurious 16th century hamam was restored and reopened in 2012 and offers a variety of massage and spa services in addition to the hamam ritual.

A sense of tranquility descends on you, once you step into the hamam’s lounge. A marble fountain trickles in the center of the room and the serene sounds of water echo through the large domed space. As I sat down an attendant brought over a hot towel scented with fragrant lemongrass oil and a small glass of homemade apple sherbet.

After explaining the hamam process, she left a key to my private locker and guided me to the changing area to strip down — ladies are to take off everything except for their underwear and wrap themselves in the provided traditional bath towel (peshtemal).

The marble-clad interior of the hamam. [Photo: Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı]
The marble-clad interior of the hamam. [Photo: Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı]

Once I was ready, I was taken inside the hamam — The lower half of the circular spa was covered in gleaming, wall-to-wall marble and marble basins and gold taps surround the room. I felt like a sultan, albeit a slightly awkward and self-conscious one.

I was made to lie on the large hexagonal marble slab in the middle of the room which was heated but not uncomfortably so. Spreading my towel over it, I lounged blissfully on the heated platform, staring upwards at the star-shaped skylights in the domed ceiling. A gaggle of other ladies lay beside me, chatting and giggling softly.

“First time here?” one of them asks.

“Yes, you?”

“No. We come here every week.”

I smiled and returned my gaze to the ceiling. I could see why.

About 20 minutes later, a stocky woman with fiery red hair named Neslihan called for me to follow her. I wrapped myself in my towel and followed her to one of the basins.

“Remove,” she instructs me, pointing at my towel.

At this moment it became starkly clear again that someone else was about to bathe me. I fumbled with my towel and awkwardly sat down. Neslihan must have sensed my discomfort — “Lady, relax,” she says. She’d repeat this phrase at least 10 times throughout our 30 minute session whenever I’d reflexively tense up. It was a weird sensation, sitting half naked in front of a complete stranger while she rubs down every inch of your body, but as Neslihan poured basins of water over my head and gently massaged and exfoliated my skin with a scrubbing mitten, I gradually gave in and let all tensions melt away.

All too soon it was over. I was pat dry and wrapped up in a fresh peshtemal before I retreated to the outer lounge area feeling refreshed and my skin unbelievably smooth. Guests are permitted to remain in the hamam or relax in the lounge for as long as they please after their session. Women-only hours are from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. and men’s from 4:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m.

Cappadocia
Cappadocia

For as long as I can remember, I’ve been enchanted by the fairytale landscapes of Cappadocia — its lunar-like rock formations and skies dotted with more hot air balloons than you could count. Since it was only an hour and a half journey from Istanbul, I knew I had to make the trip.

When you’ve spent over a decade fantasizing about something, it’s easy to build it up in your mind. Yet experiencing it first hand exceeded every expectation I held and left me in an awestruck state for the rest of the day.

I mean, how could it not? [Photo: Erica Rae Chong]
I mean, how could it not? [Photo: Erica Rae Chong]

We glided over valleys and watched the sun rise over vibrantly hued fairy chimneys — conical rock formations shaped by centuries of erosion by wind, lava and rain. From our bird’s-eye view we could see the vast fantasy-like topography at a glance, from the little towns hewn out of rock and cliff faces in the distance to the smattering of grapevines at the local vineyards beneath us.

While hot air ballooning is the main draw of this central Anatolian region, it isn’t the only way to explore Cappadocia. Hiking through the valleys will give you an up close look at its geological wonders while revealing deep layers of human history.

Hiking in Cappadocia. [Photo: Erica Rae Chong]
Hiking in Cappadocia. [Photo: Erica Rae Chong]

From far, the trails look like a collection of undulating cliff faces and rocky outcrops in dusty shades of pink, orange, yellow and white. But on closer inspection you can find ancient cave churches carved out of the rock and old pigeon houses, traditionally built to collect the bird’s droppings for fertilizer.

It’s helpful to join one of the many walking tours available and have a knowledgeable local guide show you around but if you’d rather go solo, most trails are gentle enough to be tackled by even the most inexperienced of hikers. Many hotels provide shuttle services to trailheads from which you can spend an hour or even a whole day exploring.

Don’t miss the Goreme Open Air Museum, a monastic complex of rock-cut churches decorated with gorgeous frescoes, and the Derinkuyu Underground City, a massive subterrain network where Christians would hide to escape persecution after the region fell to the Ottomans. The underground city is approximately 85 metres deep with many levels and tunnels connecting storage rooms, churches stables and wineries. Only the first four levels are accessible to tourists, though, for safety reasons.

where to stay
where to stay

While in Istanbul, I resided at the waterfront district of Karakoy in The House Hotel Vault Karakoy. The luxury boutique hotel is nestled conveniently in the relaxed Beyoğlu district, removed from the hordes of tourists in the Sultanahmet disctrict yet within walking distance to hotspots like the Galata Tower, Spice Market and İstiklal Avenue — a 1.4 km-long pedestrian street brimming with boutiques, cafes, pubs, nightclubs and more.

Interior of The House Hotel Vault Karakoy. [Photo: The House Hotel Vault Karakoy]
Interior of The House Hotel Vault Karakoy. [Photo: The House Hotel Vault Karakoy]

The restored hotel interior combines old world architecture with luxurious modern touches of wood and Carrara marble . A number of basic ammenities (spa, gym, concierge) are at the guests’ disposal, most noteworthy of which is their complimentary Handy mobile phone equipped with a city guide and unlimited international calling to USA, UK, Australia, Germany and France.

In Cappadocia, I eschewed from the typical hotel and opted to stay in one of the region’s iconic cave hotels.

I checked into the Aydinli Cave Hotel, a small family-run guesthouse for eight generations hewn right out of the natural rock over 350 years ago. The owners are some of the warmest people I’ve met, always ready to offer you a cup of freshly brewed tea, sightseeing suggestions or simply have a conversation.

Interior and exterior of Aydinli Cave Hotel. [Photo: Aydinli Cave Hotel]
Interior and exterior of Aydinli Cave Hotel. [Photo: Aydinli Cave Hotel]

I was led to a spacious room, previously used as a storage room to store grapes, apricot and barley back when the family used to be involved in agriculture. There were still shallow holes in the wall from where wooden posts for hanging grapes used to be. Every room in the small boutique hotel is different, but they were all carved out of the same tough rock which keeps the rooms cool in summer and warm in the winter.

Despite its rough exterior (and interior), I wasn’t about to be a troglodyte. The hotel has undergone extensive restoration and is equipped with modern furniture, showers and most importantly, free WiFi.

My favourite spot, though, was the beautiful rooftop terrace which overlooks the surrounding town and is the perfect spot to sip hot tea while watching the daily ascension of balloons over the horizon at sunrise.

This magical sight alone is enough to induce dreams of returning, but coupled with the great food, history-soaked sights, warm people and, for now, more economical prices, Turkey already has me planning a return trip.

Would you consider a trip to Turkey? Let us know by tweeting @YahooStyleCA.