What We Know About All the Emeralds at the Ambani Wedding
The bride wore emeralds. So did the groom (buttons, brooch, necklace). So did the mother of the groom (necklace, earrings, cuffs, brooch, hair pins). So did the sister of the groom. So did many guests (see: Kim Kardashian, google: Lorraine Schwartz). Was the dominance of this verdant stone at this epic wedding in homage to history or to aesthetics? Two things can be true.
There are of course legendary Indian emeralds. "Among the most renowned are the jewels of the Maharaja of Baroda, including the celebrated 'Star of India' emerald. Another exemplary piece is the Mogul Mughal emerald, a remarkable rectangular-cut emerald from the 17th century, weighing approximately 217.80 carats and inscribed with sacred texts," third generation jewellery dealer Lee Siegelson tells T&C.
"Emeralds," Siegelson says, "hold a profound significance in Indian jewelry, deeply rooted in the country’s rich cultural and historical tapestry. These gemstones have been revered not only for their captivating beauty but also for their symbolic meanings. Historically, emeralds have been associated with royalty and divinity, believed to bring wisdom, prosperity, and protection. In Indian tradition, emeralds are often linked to the planet Mercury, which is considered to govern intellect and communication. This connection further elevates their status, making them a favored choice for ceremonial and celebratory adornments, particularly in weddings, where they symbolize new beginnings and enduring love.”
The meanings associated with emeralds certainly play a part—note the absence of sapphires, which are not seen as good omens. But the connection to the royal past also plays a strong role. Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Founder & Designer, Sabyasachi who outfitted many guests including the groom explained the preference for emeralds this way: "Indian art and craft reached its zenith during the Mughal period when the most popular and glorious jewelry was crafted from emeralds and spinels. The royal class, dressed in embroidered finery adorned with beautiful colored stones, represented the apex of the social hierarchy. This fascination with dressing like royalty has remained in India, so that any large wedding will showcase pieces of exceptional emeralds accompanied by uncut, old mine cut, rose-cut, and full-cut diamonds."
Nisha Kundnani, founder of Mumbai-based bridal styling and luxury consultancy Bridelan, offers additional insight: Emeralds are rooted in both history and culture, as well as pure beauty. "We are used to seeing our mothers and grandmothers wear jewelry, gold and diamonds and natural gemstones while growing as young girls," says Kundnani. "As Indians, we like bold, dramatic hues and are not afraid of colour. Emeralds are a very part of Indian jewelry especially for brides because it lends a similar boldness to uplift dramatic, heavily patterned couture outfits. We need bold jewelry to make a holistic statement and complement the overall look. That design philosophy is part of our jewelry heritage and culture."
All these traditions were on dramatic display at the Ambani wedding. From the bride’s necklace by Nisha Mehta of five rows of diamonds with a large emerald suspended, to her finale reception necklace a suite of diamond, emerald and pearl meticulously crafted by jeweler Viren Bhagat. Sourcing its rare Colombian emeralds and natural saltwater pearls took over a year. Mrs. Nita Ambani, mother of the groom wore an emerald studded diamond necklace with matching earrings bangles and rings also by Viren Bhagat during the pre wedding festivities.
Other emerald evidence? The modern choker set by first generation Mumbai-based jeweller Sajil Shah of Sajjante created for the bride. "What we’ve made for Radhika is an amalgamation of traditional stones (emerald ‘badams’ a type of cabochon, common in Indian jewelry) and a contemporary style of setting," says the jeweler. "This necklace perfectly blends India’s legacy and culture for a modern bride. The design incorporates elements of Mughal inspiration along with a newer bold aesthetic."
And why, again, the emeralds? They are, admittedly, his favorite. "Emeralds are very precious and have been popular through the heritage of India’s royal past over the last 1000 years. They have been taking centre stage along with diamonds and I believe that the legacy and heritage has passed down over generations from royal and noble families to modern mindsets as well.”
History and heritage, he agrees, are the forces behind so many of the jewelry decisions at the wedding. Though he too, does not discount their visual impact. "Another reason is the Indian color palette is vibrant and flamboyant. Clothes also tend to be in jeweled toned colors and emeralds symbolise royalty, heritage, and vibrancy of Indian culture."
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