Shopping Time: 5 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshores to Buy Right Now
We are always scouring the web for the most amazing watches currently available, and each Friday Shopping Time shares five standout timepieces with you.
Though we explored the standard Royal Oak here earlier this year, and have recently published a thorough history of the Gerald Genta-designed timepiece that continues to dominate the Audmars Piguet collection, we haven’t given its more complicated cousin, the Offshore Chronograph, much attention. Today we turn to the very best Offshores currently available on the pre-owned market.
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The Royal Oak Offshore is a polarizing watch from a polarizing brand, and it’s been that way since it was released in 1993. Audemars Piguet often finds themselves ahead of the curve in embracing cultural trends, and the Royal Oak Offshore is a perfect example of that. This is a watch that opened the door for the larger watch trend that would fully take hold by the late ‘90s, paving the way for celebrity collaborations the likes of which feel commonplace these days.
The Royal Oak itself was ahead of the curve when it was released in 1972, paving the way for the integrated-bracelet steel sport watch genre that would unfold over the following decade, the effects of which are still felt today. Leading into the 20th anniversary, in an attempt to breathe new life into the collection, the idea of the Offshore was put forth by product designer Emmanuel Gueit. At first seen as pushing the Royal Oak a bit too far, the idea eventually took hold, and by the late ‘90s, Audemars Piguet had a hit on their hands. Success was owed to the fashion-forward Italian watch market, as well as high-visibility wrist placement on the likes of Michael Schumacher, and Arnold Schwarzenegger.
The Royal Oak Offshore celebrated its 25th anniversary in 2018 by returning to its roots, recreating the original reference 25721ST to the last detail. The Offshore has proven remarkably versatile over its lifespan, however. Audemars Piguet created a vast array of configurations, using all manner of material in the process. Many of the references have their own unique personalities, pushing the collection to its full potential, and establishing a foundation for future generations.
This week, we’re bringing you a curation of Royal Oak Offshore references that span its history and showcase the breadth of the platform across a variety of configurations.
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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 25721ST | $24,850
This is the Offshore that started it all. Affectionately known as “The Beast” for its towering dimensions, the reference 25721ST represents the original vision of designer Emmanuel Gueit. There are a few themes with this watch that set it apart from modern counterparts, most prominently the petite tapisserie dial pattern, which contrasts with the much larger variation used on more modern references. I wouldn’t call it elegant, but it’s certainly a more subtle take on the dial that doesn’t compete with the case and bracelet. This reference sits at 42mm in diameter, and nearly 16 mm in height thanks to the massive octagonal bezel structure.
This example of the 25721ST is available from Analog Shift, and bears the “Offshore” branding on the caseback (meaning it comes after the original 100 references made). This is a full kit that dates to 1997, and is listed in overall very good condition, showing some signs of wear and age. This example has a tritium dial, which has aged to a pleasant off-white color against the navy dial. This is a lovely example of one of the most important sport watches to come out of the ‘90s.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver | $26,500
In 2010, Audemars Piguet introduced the Offshore Diver, a time and date model with an internal bezel. A diver watch within this platform makes a good deal of sense, putting that bulk to good use when it comes to water resistance. This is generally the Offshore for people who don’t like the Offshore. It’s legible, and genre appropriate, and was even made in lightweight forged carbon, as is the case with this example, keeping the weight in check. It also ditches the somewhat awkward date magnifier, cleaning up the design to a considerable degree (though we’d still love to see a no-date version of this watch).
This reference 15706AU Offshore Diver Carbon gets a 42 mm carbon composite case that is listed in like new condition. This watch uses the more prominent Grande Tapisserie dial pattern, which works well in the absence of other complications. This is a full kit that dates to 2013, and represents an enthusiasts favorite for the way it leans into the tool watch space. The rubber strap keeps this surprisingly wearable. This is the most accessible Offshore both in price and in appearance.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore ‘End of Days’ | $30,850
One of the ways that Audemars Piguet was able to establish the Offshore in the market was by getting it on the wrists of the biggest stars in the world, and in the late ‘90s, that meant Arnold Schwarzenegger. Audemars Piguet made a special edition Offshore for the release of Peter Hyams’ 1999 movie End of Days starring the famous Austrian, and it’s fair to say that the watch may have been better received than the film. It has certainly aged better, if you ask us. The black on black watch featured an integrated fabric strap and a 42mm case with the original petite tapisserie dial. This watch further established just how flexible this platform could be when working with unexpected materials.
This example of the Royal Oak Offshore ‘End of Days’ is on offer from Analog Shift, and boasts the double layered black nylon strap with velcro closure in excellent condition. This also allows for infinite adjustment to get the perfect fit. Just 500 examples of this watch were made, and while the movie may have been forgettable, this watch left an indelible mark on the history of the Offshore.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Rubens Barrichello II | $29,900
As we’ve established, Audemars Piguet was not afraid to lean into celebrity collaborations with the Offshore. One such relationship was with Brazilian F1 driver, Rubens Barrichello during the early ‘00s, when he served as teammate to Michael Schumacher at Ferrari. Barrichello had a long, successful racing career, though the bulk of his F1 wins would come during his time at Ferrari from 2000 to 2005. This Royal Oak Offshore comes within the period, and represents a push further toward the extreme ends of the design concept. The larger 44mm case is rendered in titanium, and the bezel, pushers, and dial all feature recesses and cutaways to save weight and reveal the inner workings of the watch. The green, blue, and yellow hands in the subdials are a nod to the Brazilian flag.
This example comes to us from Wind Vintage, and represents an untouched example of the reference. This watch is listed as a full kit, and appears to be in unpolished condition, showing only light signs of wear. There’s no getting around that this is an extreme version of an already extreme watch, so this is not for the faint of heart. This watch does make a statement, and marks an important part of Audemars Piguet history as they further developed the idea of the Offshore.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Rose Gold – $66,865
The modern Royal Oak Offshore has matured in some ways, and Audemars Piguet have expressed its design in all manner of materials, even at the high end as we see here with a fully rose gold variation in the reference 26470OR. This is a statement piece if ever there was one within the Offshore collection, setting its traditional three register chronograph design into a gold dial, case, and bracelet. It’s over the top in all the right ways, and given the more recent production, this watch uses their own caliber 3126 / 3840, which is based on the caliber 3120 with Dubois-Depraz chronograph module.
This example from Swiss Watch Expo is in excellent, near new condition with its full bracelet and original box. We love this example for how different it feels compared to some of the other references on this list while showing the clear Offshore DNA through and through. This is a maximalist approach to the chronograph, and we’re just happy that Audemars Piguet has seen fit to stretch it in as many directions as they have, including full rose gold.
Please note that we are not affiliated with the sellers of the watches we recommend. We may point out aspects of a listing that we feel are positive, but only you can vet a seller. We can recommend viewing our video “How to Collect It: Vintage Watches” to glean some best practices, however.
