The new St. John suit is a pair of fluid white viscose trousers and a white scoop tank top. And let’s face it, that’s what you need when it’s 95 degrees in the shade in Manhattan…in September.
It was the hero piece in the spring collection, which marked a further melding of the sensibilities of St. John designer Enrico Chiarparin, a veteran of Calvin Klein and Miu Miu, among other places, and the brand’s creative director, Hollywood stylist and tomboy icon Karla Welch.
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They continued to explore the 1960s Palm Spring glamour they started for fall, but mixed in more ’90s ease and subtle nods to Western Americana, from the origami-folded mules mounted on western heels, to the crystal edge on the pointed collar of a black button up shirt paired with cigarette pants, for the “Woman in Black.”
The silhouette was long and lean for the most part, with body-hugging crochet tank dresses, cardigan jackets and minis contrasted with more tailored sculpted shifts and trouser skirts, lightweight unlined blazers and trenchcoats.
“We are trying to be lighter and seasonless,” said Chiaparin of innovating with fabrics and yarns.
On the pared-down evening front, a white shimmering sheer sequin tank dress was a winner, with a leotard incorporated into the lining, as was a sleeveless black Watteau back gown with crystal embellishments.
Added Welch, “And if we didn’t have a strike right now I would be placing all these dresses.”
Launch Gallery: St. John RTW Spring 2024
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