You Can Still Have a ‘Sideways’ Weekend in the Santa Ynez Valley
The Santa Ynez Valley was once a well-kept secret, but 20 years ago, Sideways let the cat out of the bag. The sleeper hit turned the once-sleepy wine region into a massive tourist destination, and the whole vibe changed. The sparsely populated tasting rooms from the movie now mostly require reservations, the cheapo motels have gotten facelifts and markups, and a couple of the area’s newer restaurants—Bell’s and Bar Le Côte—have gotten Esquire’s attention.
If you find yourself in southern California, it’s still the perfect weekend getaway: less than two hours from Los Angeles (as long as you’re on the 101 by noon), with a vibe as relaxed as L.A.’s pretends to be. You can’t do it as cheaply as Miles and Jack managed, but you can still have a restorative experience for a reasonable price. There are tons of great trails for hiking, roads for biking, and parks for camping, but that’s not why you’re here, and we both know it. Here are my exhaustively researched picks for places to eat, drink, and pass out like a Rex Pickett character.
Restaurants:
Esquire’s Best New Restaurants franchise has, over the years, singled out Bar Le Côte in Los Olivos and Bell’s in Los Alamos, and those spots are indeed worth checking out. But for me, the one to beat is Industrial Eats. In a repurposed warehouse in what looks like an office park just off the 101 in Buellton, it’s a no-frills experience: You order at the counter and prowl like a mountain lion for space at the shared picnic tables. Their brick-oven pizzas are top-notch, as is the ever-changing selection of hot dishes on the blackboard. You might spy roasted brussels sprouts with bacon and pomegranate, shepherd’s pie full of short rib, and shrimp and pancetta on toast. Get a juice glass of tap wine or pop a bottle you bought that day.
For a lunch on the path back to real life, swing by SY Kitchen, a locals’ favorite in the Old West town of Santa Ynez proper. It’s operated within a ranch house by a pair of Italian chef brothers, and though the words “seasonal” and “fresh” are thrown around liberally in regard to ingredients, here you believe it. The octopus salad is a must, the burrata pizza is solid, and the T-bone truffle sliders won’t break the bank. The locals know what’s up.
Wineries:
Right in the center of Los Olivos, around the corner from where Paul Giamatti’s Miles overserves himself at dinner and drunk-dials his ex-wife, you’ll find Fresh Garage, a younger and spunkier offshoot of Stolpman Vineyards. Fresh Garage wines are a little more daring and a little more affordable than the mother brand: their Love You Bunches carbonic Sangiovese is one to pick up by the case. Grab a sandwich from Panino right across the street and linger as you people-watch. Bonus: right next door is The Other Room, Los Olivos’ one standalone bar. While the town pretty much shuts down when most of the tasting rooms close at 5, The Other Room has been known to stay open until the scandalous hour of 8. Go nuts!
If even the manageable and well-behaved crowds of Los Olivos prove too much for you, give Demetria a go. Go ten miles up around the hills of Foxen Canyon Road, buzz at the front gate to enter, and then you've got another twenty minutes up the driveway. Once you’re there, you get a panoramic view of the valley that includes what used to be Michael Jackson’s Neverland. It’s a hot ticket, and you may need to know a wine club member (or become one) to get a tasting reservation, but the biodynamic Rhônes and Burgundies, like their Cuvée Matia Grenache blend, are worth the trouble.
Lodging:
Situated just outside of the Danish town of Solvang, Hotel Ynez is a perfect retreat. 22 rooms sit across two quiet acres with gardens, fire pits, hammocks, and a pool that keeps the under-21s out. You’re just far enough away from town to get some good stargazing, but close enough to hit the ground running in the morning and get to Solvang for ebelskivers. (They’re a local delicacy: sort of pancakes, sort of tennis balls. Don’t ask, just eat.) Rooms start at around $200 a night.
But if you want to splash out, The Inn at Mattei’s Tavern is the place to do it. It’s built around a 19th-century stagecoach stop right at the northern tip of Los Olivos’ main drag, with standalone guest cottages that evoke a Ralph Lauren cowboy fantasy. The tavern itself pulls ingredients from the Inn’s massive garden, and has an excellent wine-pairing program, as you’d expect. There’s a spa, but in a place like this that’s almost redundant. Rooms start at around $800 a night.
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