3 Things That Will Actually Help Treat Keratosis Pilaris—And 3 That Won’t
Tanja Ivanova/Getty Images
Keratosis pilaris, KP, chicken skin, strawberry skin—call it what you will, the condition by any name is incredibly annoying. It’s also super common, affecting a whopping 40% of adults in the US. There’s no cure for it either, so dealing with the unwelcome bumps it causes is an ongoing battle. And despite how prevalent it is, experts have a lot of unanswered questions about KP.
That doesn’t mean there’s nothing you can do about it, though. What doctors do know is that there are a handful of effective ways to treat and manage KP symptoms (irksome bumps, we’re looking at you). On the flip side, there are also things that definitely won’t work—and may even end up exacerbating the issue. Here, dermatologists explain which keratosis pilaris treatments are worth trying and why—and which ones you should skip.
What exactly is keratosis pilaris?
“Keratosis pilaris occurs when excess keratin, a protein in the skin, builds up within the hair follicles, resulting in bumps and a scaly texture,” Muneeb Shah, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Mooresville, North Carolina, tells SELF. “It usually shows up on the backs of the arms, though it can also pop up on the thighs and cheeks,” he adds. (And occasionally on the other cheeks too, FYI.) Dead skin cells can also accumulate in the follicles, further contributing to a bumpy appearance and feel, per the American Academy of Dermatology.
Why in these specific spots and not others? As we mentioned above, a lot of the specifics surrounding KP are a mystery; exactly what causes the overproduction and build-up of keratin remains unknown, as does why it shows up in these particular areas, Dr. Shah says.
What experts do know: There’s definitely a genetic component, Diane Madfes, MD, assistant clinical professor at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York, tells SELF. More specifically, it’s an autosomal dominant condition, Dr. Madfes explains, which is a fancy way of saying it’s passed down from parent to child.
There’s no gender bias, meaning men and women are equally likely to get it, but age does play a factor: Keratosis pilaris typically pops up during adolescence but often goes away as you get older, she adds. Why? Again, who knows, although Dr. Madfes suspects that it has to do with the fact that keratin production slows with age. It’s also worth mentioning that people with eczema are more likely to have KP, Dr. Shah points out. At the risk of sounding like a broken record, experts don’t know why that is, although it likely has something to do with skin barrier dysfunction, he says.
What does KP look like?
Untitled design - 2
HengDao/Getty ImagesKP will feel bumpy and scaly no matter your skin tone, but it doesn’t look the same for everyone. In people with lighter skin, the bumps can either be flesh-colored or appear red or pink due to inflammation around the hair follicle, Dr. Shah explains. In darker skin, redness may not show up and the spots can instead look like brownish or blackish hyperpigmentation, Dr. Madfes says. While KP is annoying and not cute, the one saving grace is that it isn’t itchy or painful.
Three KP treatments worth trying
We said it before and Dr. Shah will say it again: “There’s no cure for KP. When we’re talking about treatments, we’re talking about managing the condition and the symptoms, which can admittedly be frustrating for people who want to totally get rid of it,” he says. Equally frustrating: The fact that KP tends to ebb and flow. “You may find that it’s not that bad but then it suddenly flares up,” Dr. Shah says.
Brace yourself for shocking news—experts don’t know why that is. Dry skin can contribute, he notes, which is why many people find that their keratosis pilaris is worse during the winter when their skin is dehydrated. All that to say, when it comes to managing KP, it’s important to have options in your arsenal both for regular maintenance and whenever a flare strikes. Here are three of the derms’ favorite treatments:
Exfoliating lotions
Both doctors agree that simultaneously exfoliating and moisturizing is incredibly effective, which is why an exfoliating lotion is their treatment of choice. These hybrid formulas contain chemical exfoliants, “actives” that dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells in the hair follicles so they can shed, Dr. Madfes explains. And since dry skin exacerbates KP, the moisturizing part of things is very important too, Dr. Shah adds. (Look for hydrating ingredients like ceramides and hyaluronic acid.)
For people with normal skin, Dr. Shah advises using a lotion with lactic acid, like AmLactin Daily Moisturizing Lotion ($14, Amazon). If your skin is very dry, sensitive, or eczema-prone, he recommends urea, another chemical exfoliant. It’s keratolytic, too—meaning it can help break down excess keratin—and is still very effective, just slightly gentler. Dr. Madfes is also a fan of urea, calling out the Eucerin Roughness Relief Lotion ($13, Amazon) as a good KP-fighting product that contains it. Fun fact: Both of these ingredients have moisturizing properties in and of themselves, which is part of the reason they’re so often recommended for KP.
Salicylic acid is another solid option. “What’s nice about it is that it’s also keratolytic,” Dr. Shah points out. However, it’s also lipophilic, meaning it dissolves oil and can inadvertently end up drying out your skin, he cautions. Using a salicylic acid cream or lotion, rather than a cleanser or serum, is the best way to counteract this, he says, adding that many of his patients like the CeraVe Renewing Salicylic Acid Body Cream ($32, Ulta). Whichever exfoliating cream you choose, plan on using it daily if your KP is flaring. Otherwise, a few times per week is often sufficient to help keep bumps under control, Dr. Shah says.
Daily Moisturizing Lotion
$16.00, Amazon
Roughness Relief Body Lotion
$13.00, Amazon
Renewing Salicylic Acid Body Cream
$32.00, Ulta
Retinoids
Yep, everyone’s favorite wrinkle-smoother can also help with KP. Retinoids normalize keratinization in the skin, ensuring there’s not an over-production of the protein that can build up and lead to bumps, which is why they can be so beneficial for keratosis pilaris, Dr. Madfes explains. Their other unique benefit? Retinoids also have an anti-inflammatory effect, so they can help combat the inflammation-induced redness or darker pigmentation that also makes KP so bothersome, Dr. Shah adds.
However, retinoids are also notoriously irritating. In order to ensure they don’t make any inflammation worse, Dr. Shah suggests using a retinol product specifically made for the body. These options typically have a lower concentration than formulas for your face, he says. A couple to try: Versed Press Restart Gentle Retinol Body Lotion ($18, Target) and Nécessaire The Body Retinol ($55, Sephora). No matter your lotion of choice, use it daily if your skin can tolerate it, otherwise scale back to two or three times per week, he recommends.
Press Restart Gentle Retinol Body Lotion
$18.00, Target
The Body Retinol
$55.00, Sephora
Over-the-counter cortisone creams
Dr. Madfes recommends keeping this one in your back pocket as a fast fix when a KP flare pops up at an inopportune time, like before a big event. It won’t help with the bumps, but it will tamp down inflammation and improve the overall appearance of your skin by making it look less discolored, she says. Still, she’s quick to note that OTC cortisone creams (which usually come in a 1% concentration, FYI) don’t target the root causes of KP like the options above do. In other words, slathering one on day in and day out isn't going to get rid of your KP. But if you’re desperate to temporarily make your skin look better for a few days or so, it’s worth a try.
Three KP “treatments” that won’t work
Physical exfoliation alone
Unlike the chemical options above, physical exfoliants like scrubs just, yep, physically remove dead skin. But, on their own, they’re not the best option for KP. “You really need some type of chemical exfoliation to first loosen the dead cells before you try to slough them away,” notes Dr. Madfes. You can’t just “scrub” the bumps off, adds Dr. Shah. “People go to town with scrubs or exfoliating gloves and exfoliate their skin into oblivion,” he says. This aggressive approach may make your skin a little smoother, but it’s also irritating and can make any existing inflammation worse, he adds.
All that being said, it’s possible to safely incorporate physical exfoliants into your bump-banishing routine, with a few caveats. If you’re going to use a scrub, pick a gentle one that also contains a chemical exfoliant, Dr. Shah says. He likes the First Aid Beauty KP Bump Eraser Body Scrub ($30, Sephora) which combines pumice beads alongside glycolic and lactic acids. Use it a few times per week, always following with a gentle moisturizer, as part of your KP maintenance protocol.
Dr. Madfes says you can also pair a body wash that contains an alpha-hydroxy acid with a good old-fashioned washcloth for physical exfoliation. One to try: Naturim The Smoother Glycolic Acid Body Wash ($16, Amazon). If you go with this combo, you’ll want to do it a few times per week too, she adds.
KP Bump Eraser Body Scrub
$30.00, Sephora
The Smoother Glycolic Acid Body Wash
$16.00, Amazon
Benzoyl peroxide
According to Dr. Madfes, KP is often mistaken for acne, and as such, people reach for benzoyl peroxide to get rid of it. And while BP is a tried-and-true acne treatment, it’s not going to do much for “chicken skin.” “Benzoyl peroxide is an antibacterial ingredient, and keratosis pilaris is not a bacterial issue,” she explains.
Diet changes
Lots of people on social media claim that eating less gluten helped with their keratosis pilaris, but there’s no correlation between the two, says Dr. Shah, who adds that there are no dietary interventions that will help KP. He hypothesizes that what these folks may actually have is dermatitis herpetiformis, a skin condition caused by a gluten intolerance that manifests as red or blistery-looking bumps. (The big difference: These bumps are itchy and even painful, whereas KP is not.)
The annoying truth: Keratosis pilaris can be a huge hassle. But, while you can’t cure it or get rid of it completely, the derm-backed tips and tricks above can go a long way toward keeping the condition under control and improving the look (and feel) of your skin. And when it comes to KP, that’s really all you can ask for.
Related:
Originally Appeared on SELF
