5 make-up tips for mature skin that Gucci Westman swears by
There's something undeniably reassuring about having an industry-revered individual behind the brands in your make-up bag, as opposed to a conglomerate of businessmen in suits. This rings even truer for those with mature skin, who truly appreciate the expertise of those with a working understanding of 'real skin'.
Gucci Westman goes one step further, driving her brand Westman Atelier with her extensive expertise and hands-on experience as a celebrity makeup artist. Westman has worked on the faces of Hollywood's biggest stars, from Jennifer Aniston (she couldn't wait to get her hands on Westman's upcoming launch) to Nicole Kidman, allowing the intimate scale of her work to inform her product formulations. Subsequently, Westman has created a line of make-up products that not only appeal to the aesthete, but that work on all skin types, textures and ages, not just those blessed with already youthful and picture-perfect skin.
Speaking with Bazaar, Westman shared the lessons and tricks she's learned throughout her incredible career. Below, find the founder's five tips for achieving the most flawless make-up for mature skin.
Spot correct your base
You may have noticed your mother or grandmother reaching for thick powders and full-coverage foundations to cover their complexions in later years, but Westman encourages those with mature skin to leave this approach to base make-up in the past. "It's about being light, you don't have to have the same heaviness everywhere."
Instead, Westman advises taking a 'spot check' approach which involves using a fuller-coverage concealer and a precise brush to cover up any pigmentation or blemishes, before going in with a lighter, radiant foundation. "It's all about layering and using different textures. When you're older, it looks nice when you have some radiance, even if it's a 'skin finish' so it doesn't look dead matte", she says.
Westman Atelier Vital Skin Foundation Stick
Kevyn Aucoin Duet Concealer Brush
Make Up For Ever HD Skin Face Essentials Palette
Westman explains how this detailed approach to complexion correcting also facilitates smoother application of colour products such as bronzer and contour, which can tend to go patchy and emphasise areas of pigmentation if not adjusted beforehand.
"Pigmentation is annoying as you get older, especially around the perimeter of your face. I have pigmentation and with more mature skin, you have to go in and spot check," she explains. "It's like a painting, it needs like a little more yellow here, a little more coverage there. It's about manipulating what you don't want there."
Fix pilling with a damp sponge
Something we were glad to discover is that even A-listers suffer from dreaded make-up 'pilling', and thanks to an incident that Westman recalls while doing Madonna's makeup, we now know how to fix the problem without having to start from scratch.
"I had that with Madonna the second time I worked with her. She was being indicted to the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, and I was doing her make-up and she had this super thick cream on her face. It was literally like butter or something, and the foundation wouldn't stick to it, but she was like, 'Oh, you can't take that off,' and so I had to cleverly use my wet sponge and try to absorb it."
Use a lighter moisturiser for skin prep
On that note, it's easier to try and avoid pilling from happening in the first instance. Although those with mature skin might feel encouraged to slather on thicker creams in the morning to reap the plumping and moisturising benefits, sophisticated modern textures allow for more seamless layering. "We think a moisturiser has to be super thick to be hydrating, but it doesn't," says Westman. Instead, she advises saving these formulas for your evening routine, and opting for a lighter moisturiser or skin serum on the days that call for make-up.
Augustinus Bader The Cream
Westman Atelier Skin Activator
Merit Great Skin Moisturiser
"Skincare is super important, but you don't want to have anything that is too heavy in terms of creams. There's been many times when I'm working with somebody, and they say, 'Oh, I did a mask or a cream' and then I put make-up on and it just pills everywhere."
Opt for a softer-focus lip
Westman doesn't believe in avoiding bolder and darker lip colours as you get older. Rather, she suggests changing your application technique and patting in the lipstick after applying for a softer finish. "I'll do my lip liner, then I'll do lipstick from the bullet before dabbing it in," explains Westman.
"If you have really small lips, you don't want to make them fierce, you want to soften your shape. You can easily do that with a lip liner or just a lipstick and create a softness with your finger just by blending it a little bit and softening the contour of the mouth."
Westman Atelier Lip Suede Matte Lipstick
Refy Blur Lip liner
Hourglass Shape and Sculpt Lip Liner
When it comes to finishes, Westman prefers to steer in the direction of matte as opposed to anything super-glossy. "I like matte on my lips because I feel like if I get the shape right, it looks more natural. You can almost make it look like your own lips," she says.
"I would then suggest keeping the products on your skin lighter and more radiant if you're wearing a matte lip," she adds.
Retouch with highlighter throughout the day
Westman Atelier Lit Up Highlight Stick
It can be tempting to whip out a concealer for touching up throughout the day, but layering too much coverage can lead to product build-up which will then sit in and accentuate any fine lines and wrinkles. Alternatively, Westman suggests using a cream or stick balm highlighter to refresh your make-up.
"A good trick is to apply one of the Lit Up Highlight Sticks across the bridge of your nose, cheekbones and chin to fresh up your skin. It helps everything to sink in and makes it look like you just had facial."
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