7 Bonkers Watches Coming to Auction This Fall, From a Rainbow Daytona to ‘Steve McQueen’ Monaco
Each autumn, auction houses large and small send some serious steel—and, increasingly, gold and gem-set—watches under the hammer. This year, complicated vintage treasures from the likes of Patek Philippe will appear alongside contemporary masterpieces from star watchmakers including F. P. Journe. Sotheby’s global head of watches, Geoff Hess, is particularly excited about a watch he’s bringing to market for the first time, a Heuer Monaco worn by the late Steve McQueen on the set of his 1971 film Le Mans. “If rarity and provenance are the classic ingredients of greatness in watches, then this could be the pinnacle of collecting,” Hess tells Robb Report. Of course, the same could rightfully be said for any of the seven models on these pages. The only question is: Which one are you raising your paddle for?
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F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain à Remontoir d’Égalité
Phillips: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking
Geneva, November 8
Estimate: Over $2.35 million
François-Paul Journe’s Tourbillon Souverain à Remontoir d’Égalité from 1993 is the second piece he made under his own brand and the first one he sold. Its striking design is emblematic of his aesthetic, which marries classical inspiration with the avant-garde. He also crafted it entirely by hand—from the gold movement to the beautifully guilloched dial—a feat that marked him as one of the world’s finest watchmakers from the very beginning of his solo career.
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6263
Antiquorum: Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces
Geneva, November 9 and 10
Estimate: $178,000 to $298,000
This solid-gold model from 1978, fitted with a waterproof case and riveted bracelet, isn’t special just because of its attractive black-acrylic tachymeter-scale bezel, champagne dial, and black chronograph totalizers. It’s also among the last manually wound references Rolex produced before adopting Zenith’s automatic El Primero movement in the 1980s. Despite its age, it’s accompanied by its box, warranty, booklet, and calendar card, making it a collector’s dream.
Richard Mille Ref. 35-03 ‘Baby Nadal’
Sotheby’s: The GOAT Collection: Watches & Treasures From Tom Brady
N.Y.C., December 10
Estimate: $300,000 to $500,000
After 23 years of setting record after record in the NFL, five-time Super Bowl MVP Tom Brady has earned the GOAT (or Greatest of All Time) title. The former quarterback is off-loading some of his prized memorabilia and watches, including a unique Audemars Piguet Royal Oak whose dial spells out his name in diamonds, next month. Too much? Bid instead on this Richard Mille model created in collaboration with tennis champ Rafael Nadal—rendered here in the red, white, and blue of Brady’s New England Patriots. As they say, game recognizes game.
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Pocket Watch With Minute Repeater
Bonhams: Knightsbridge Watches & Wristwatches
London, November 13
Estimate: About $33,000 to $46,000
This gorgeous open-faced, keyless, 18-karat-yellow-gold pocket watch was made around 1900 and is loaded with not only a perpetual calendar and moon phases but also a minute-repeater function that chimes on command. Such a piece would no doubt court significant collector attention on its own, but this one has special provenance: Industrialist Andrew Carnegie and his wife, Louise, bought it as a gift for a member of the Scottish family whose descendants consigned it.
Rolex Cosmograph ‘Rainbow’ Daytona Ref. 16599
Phillips: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking
Geneva, November 8
Estimate: Over $3.5 million
Think the rainbow-watch craze is a recent phenomenon? Think again. Though Rolex only started producing them serially in 2012, it made this one as a pièce unique for a Middle Eastern collector in the early 1990s. Consider it the starting point for one of the biggest trends in modern horology.
Patek Philippe Ref. 2499
Sotheby’s: Treasures of Time
Geneva, November 10
Estimate: $2.95 million to $5.9 million
The second serially produced Patek Philippe wristwatch to feature both perpetual-calendar and chronograph complications, the Ref. 2499 is a perennial collectors’ favorite. This early pink-gold example, dating to 1950, is from the first of four series. With only 349 2499s ever made and just 55 belonging to the first series, it’s unquestionably rare; that only six from the initial run are known to be pink gold, however, means its new owner will also receive serious bragging rights.
Heuer Monaco ‘Steve McQueen’ Ref. 1133B
Sotheby’s: Important Watches
N.Y.C., December 6
Estimate: $500,000 to $1 million
This cushion-shaped model, which debuted in 1969, was one of the world’s first automatic chronographs. Heuer sent six of them to the set of Steve McQueen’s 1971 film Le Mans—it’s where the iconic images of the late actor casually flaunting the watch while buttoning his racing suit come from. With the other five spoken for, this is the last example McQueen wore that’s available to buy, and the Sotheby’s sale is its first appearance at auction.
