8 Jeremiah Tower Recipes From Vegetable Ragout to Lamb Shanks
Here's how to cook like the legendary California chef.
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Often called the father of California cuisine, Jeremiah Tower was the chef at Chez Panisse in Berkeley in the 1970s, then at his own landmark San Francisco restaurant, Stars, in the 1980s and '90s. The legendary chef known for being exacting and meticulous about high-quality ingredients is the subject of The Last Magnificent, a documentary produced by Anthony Bourdain. He also ran Balboa Cafe, Stars Café, and Speedo 690 in the Bay Area, won four James Beard Awards, and published seven books. His recipes incorporate his rules, like never using more than seven vegetables in one dish and only using one tomato variety: sweet cherry tomatoes. Here are standout Jeremiah Tower recipes from the chef who pioneered California cuisine with Alice Waters and Wolfgang Puck.
Jeremiah Tower’s Lobster Sandwich
Christopher Testani / FOOD STYLING by CHELSEA ZIMMER / PROP STYLING by CLAIRE SPOLLEN
This recipe is so timeless it appeared in the March 1986 issue of Food & Wine. Tower says, "The lobster sandwich never goes out of style, and it’s easy to do it up.” He uses brioche for buttery flavor, creamy Hellmann's mayonnaise, delicate chervil, acidic lemon and tomato, and rich poached lobster.
Garlicky Braised Lamb Shanks with Sweet Peppers
In 2018, Food & Wine named this recipe one of our 40 best. Tower first introduced it at Stars using an aioli flavored with rosemary and mint, but we like to devour the lamb shanks as they are. Braising the lamb a day ahead will make the meat extra tender and flavorful, then fresh bell peppers add a bright finish to the rich dish.
Vodka-Marinated Rib Roast
Source the best dry-aged and well-marbled loin roast you can find, tenderize it with Tower's vodka marinade, and salt it before cooking to develop flavor and a crust. In the recipe, the chef also shares another trick for serving roast beef that's succulent inside.
Winter Squash Soup with Porcini Cream
The components of this soup can be made a day ahead. All you need to do is microwave and assemble the hollowed-out sweet dumpling squashes, winter squash soup, and porcini cream, and garnish with sage to serve to your very delighted guests.
Pear, Pear, Pear
Tower uses Comice or Bartlett pears and pear brandy from the Etter distillery in Switzerland for this light, palate-cleansing dessert that — in his recollection — he adapted from a recipe by Franco-Brazilian chef Claude Troisgros and has continued to iterate.
Double-Baked Three-Cheese Soufflés
Tower bakes the notoriously sinking dessert twice, puffing them back to life on the second go round, and your ego the second your guests react with oohs and aahs.
Vegetable Ragout with Fresh Herbs
Tower credits his vegetable education to culinary genius Richard Olney, author of Simple French Food, who he cooked with in France. The experience inspired this colorful combination of pearl onions, carrots, haricots verts, zucchini, and red and yellow bell peppers.
Lemon Cornmeal Cakes with Lapsang Souchong Chocolate Sauce
This make-ahead dessert showcases an intense range of flavors: apricots, smoky Lapsang souchong tea, chocolate, maraschino liqueur, and cream.
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