Acne Studios is having a denim moment, courtesy of its viral Kylie Jenner campaign, and creative director Jonny Johansson intended to keep that momentum going with his fall menswear collection.
The muse he tapped for his look book is not a world-famous reality TV star, but the kind of offbeat creative that the designer delights in discovering. Yves Tumor, a musician whose genre defies categorization, proved a perfect fit for this season’s helter-skelter aesthetic.
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“It’s sort of this balance between uptown and downtown, high- and low-end, scary-sweet. I don’t know, I’m very excited by Yves Tumor as a human being,” Johansson enthused.
Cyber biker, psychedelic punk or ’90s raver: Tumor effortlessly channeled them all in looks that contrasted body-conscious and oversize proportions.
As usual, the denim pieces looked like they’d been put through the wringer, but they weren’t always what they seemed. Baggy distressed jeans dangling metal key chains turned out to be cotton pants printed with trompe-l’oeil motifs. Ditto the flared jeans ringed with studded belts, or hand-painted with cutesy bows.
“It feels futuristic and low-tech at the same time,” Johansson said of the technique. “You have this piece of white canvas and then you can just sit down at a computer, make your collage and print it on.”
There was a trippy quality to the way he stirred together items like crop tops, shearling outerwear, maxi boots or a furry camouflage onesie. Scene-stealers will opt for the total look, but ordinary mortals may want to microdose.
Launch Gallery: Acne Studios Men's Fall 2024
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