Adrian Wu Dreams Big for Fall 2012

Mosha Lundström Halbert

Adrian Wu is nothing if not ambitious.

From the exaggerated, rotund silhouettes he routinely sends down the runway to his own career hopes, lofty notions define both his work and his attitude. This is a designer who entitles a collection Hierarchy of Needs and sends models out in V for Vendetta masks, a social comment on North American versus European politics that was lost on me.

Perhaps I was distracted by all the dresses. Wu doesn't do pants, jackets, or even skirts, but rather, his own signature bubble frocks. This season, they were frothily whipped up in a bed sheet-look mini polka dot in drab shades of navy, olive, chocolate and mustard.

While efforts to tone down from last season's over-the-top rococo spectacle were in the right vein, the poor fabric choice weighed down the Wu look. It would be refreshing to see this fine young designer (with such a poised knack for theatricality) step out of his guilelessly pillowy look and try his hand at tailoring. Especially if he wants to reach his ultimate goal stated in the show liner notes "to one day be hired by the house of Dior." After all, there is nothing wrong with dreaming big.

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