A beauty editor's lowdown on getting laser hair removal on Black skin
I’m telling you right now, one of the best decisions I made for myself, beauty-wise, was getting laser hair removal. As a person who prefers being hair-free on my legs, bikini area and arms (side note: I tried underarms but I found it too painful for more than one session so make of that what you will), not having to think about shaving as frequently really changed the game for me. This is particularly true when it come to ingrown hairs and hyperpigmentation. But, as I have found with a lot of beauty services, finding a good practice that treats darker skin wasn’t as easy as I had hoped.
For laser, it’s a problem that people with very light skin and light hair also find; not all laser devices can pick up the difference between the hair and the skin so a specific type of laser must be used, this is why IPL doesn't work us either. It's crazy to me, at the earth's big age of 2024, all clinics in the UK don't have this technology but more and more are investing in it. Knowing this, it’s down to us as clients to ask the right questions to ensure that we are getting the most out of our experience and not putting our skin in danger. So, here are the key things you need to know as a person of colour getting laser hair removal.
Check the laser machine that the clinic uses before you book in
As I mentioned, unfortunately older devices can’t cater to darker skin tones so if you pick a place that’s stuck in the past and not updated their machines, you might be met with a shock. “In the past, some laser technologies were less effective or posed higher risks for individuals with darker skin due to the potential for pigmentation changes or skin damage,” notes Kayleigh Hawkins - Head Trainer at Thérapie Clinic. “Since then, advancements in laser technology and techniques have made it possible for people with various skin tones, including deeper ones, to undergo laser treatments safely.”
I’ve visited Thérapie and Pulse Light Laser Clinics for successful laser treatments. Both have multiple outposts, and Thérapie has clinics across the UK (and Europe). Wherever you go, ensure they are using machinery with NDYag wavelengths, the only safe laser to use on darker skin. “The NDYag 1064nm wavelength is the most effective for dark skin tones,” says Hawkins. “NDyag is specifically designed to target hair follicles whilst minimising the risk of skin damage in individuals with darker skin tones.”
Be careful of sun exposure between appointments
When you book a course of laser hair removal, you should really think about any holiday plans you have in between– yes, even if you have dark skin. Any sun exposure is a no-no for the areas that you are treating, and you’ll have to delay your appointments if you have even the slightest tan at follow-up appointments. Why? Well, sun-kissed skin is extra sensitised and lasering on top of this can lead to painful irritation. Even in the U.K., you need to protect any exposed skin from the sun. “In between laser appointments, it is important to ensure your skin is protected from UVA/UVB damage. A broad-spectrum SPF should be worn daily in between treatments, in any weather,” says Hawkins.
You can increase the efficacy of laser hair removal with good at-home routines
Ok, you started your course and you're well on your way to having your hair zapped away for months on end, now, my friend, is the time to step your at-home routine up a gear. It's time to treat your body to all the goodness you give your face by introducing some skincare ingredients to your body care in order to avoid hyperpigmentation in the areas you’re receiving treatment.
Hawkins recommends introducing a tyrosinase inhibitor like azelaic acid, kojic acid and types of vitamin C. “A tyrosinase inhibitor is an ingredient that stops the formation of new pigmentation whilst also lightening existing pigmentation on the skin. This product should be used AM and PM throughout your laser treatments underneath your SPF.” I know that the words 'lightening' and 'skin' together can trigger panic, but these products are all low dose, over-the-counter and work in a targeted way to even out skin tone when hyperpigmentation has or may occur. They will not lighten your overall skin colour.
Oh, and don’t skip your exfoliation, girl
This will rid your skin of dead cells, helping with turnover and ensuring that ingrown hairs don’t arise. If you have naturally coily hair, you’ll be more prone to this annoying condition which then often leads to hyperpigmentation in the area due to the trauma to the skin. The pros recommend a chemical exfoliant over a physical scrub just to avoid unnecessary surface irritation. “Using an AHA/BHA exfoliator will encourage the fall out of the hair destroyed by the laser, prevent the formation of ingrown hairs and keep the area bright and smooth,” notes Hawkins.
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