The best moisturisers for eczema, according to experts
Anyone who has ever suffered with eczema will understand the mercurial and maddening nature of this chronic inflammatory skin barrier disease. Eczema, or dermatitis as it's also known, is a shape-shifter of a skin condition that can change the way it affects people throughout their lifetime (I, as a lifelong sufferer, can attest to this), making it extremely hard to keep on top of.
There is also a lot of misinformation about eczema, like the assumption that it means using only unsexy, fragrance-free products. The most common form of the condition – atopic eczema – isn't necessarily easily irritated by topical ingredients, so while the fragrance-free or sensitive option is always safe, it isn't always essential.
The good news is there are plenty of excellent, innovative, luxurious formulas out there that are as much a pleasure to use as they are tolerated by atopic eczema-prone skin.
What is eczema?
"Eczema is an inflammatory skin barrier disease manifesting as dry, itchy skin that can become rough and bumpy-feeling," explains the consultant dermatologist Mary Sommerlad. "There are three main types of eczema: atopic, contact allergic, and contact irritant. The effect it has on your skin depends on the type you have. The overwhelming majority of people (around 90 per cent) with eczema have the atopic type, which is a complex interplay between genetics of the skin barrier, the external environment and how the immune system responds to this."
Dr Sommerlad, who is herself a sufferer of atopic eczema, goes on to explain that it often first appears in infancy, then may disappear in adolescence only to return again in adulthood. "Weather, stress and illness may exacerbate it, but often atopic eczema returns for no obvious reason, and any part of the skin throughout the body can be affected," she says. Dr Sommerlad also explains that although it can be well controlled to minimise flares, "for atopic sufferers, this is a genetic condition for which there is currently no definitive cure."
The other two types of eczema are very specific – contact-allergic eczema flares in response to a long-standing allergy to something like nickel, while similarly, contact-irritant eczema is a response to persistent exposure to an irritant such as a specific cleaning product.
Which ingredients are good for eczema-prone skin?
"Eczema-prone skin lacks natural oils and moisture but the good news is that there are several ingredients that can make a huge difference," says Dr Sommerlad.
"The first are humectants such as hyaluronic acid, squalane, glycerin, and beta glucans – these draw and lock moisture into the skin," she explains. Emollients, meanwhile, look to mimic the effects of sebum and natural oils on the skin to offer a softening layer. "Shea butter (sometimes listed as butyrospermum parkii on an INCI list) is a great one for soothing and replenishing oils, and making skin feel smoother, softer and less irritated," adds Dr Sommerlad.
And then there are occlusives, which reduce moisture loss by literally forming a film over the skin (if you're stacking your skincare, apply these last). Occlusive ingredients include petrolatum, lanolin, mineral oils and zinc oxide. "Some occlusives, however, can paradoxically cause irritation or breakouts," warns Dr Sommerlad, "so if you know you are allergic to lanolin, for example, or that you break out with mineral oils, then opt for squalane instead."
"In addition to a softened and well-hydrated skin barrier, ingredients such as ceramides and peptides help to restore the integrity of the skin," says Dr Sommerlad. "Ingredients that are known to be soothing such as niacinamide and panthenol (vitamin B5) can also be very effective."
Below is our edit of the best moisturisers for eczema-prone skin, tried and recommended by Dr Mary Sommerlad and acting beauty director Fleur Fruzza, both of whom suffer from atopic eczema.
Best moisturisers for eczema, according to experts
Ceramidin Ectoin-infused Cream
Developed for dry skin, this light-feeling yet somehow rich cream (it's a very unusual texture) hits that sweet spot of not overloading itchy skin while deeply nourishing it. This is thanks to a cocktail of five types of skin-barrier-loving ceramide, combined with protective ectoin. It claims to up moisture by 139 per cent, which is, in our opinion, instantly visible. It's also incredibly soothing.
The Concentrate
Possibly one of the best skincare treatments of all time, this is a winner even (we can confirm) during an active, angry eczema flare. The Concentrate is cocooning, liquid velvet which cools on contact, while a concentrated amount of Miracle Broth gets to work infusing the skin with its next-level anti-inflammatory benefits.
Restorative Facial Cream
This moisturiser is a favourite of Dr Sommerlad for its "deeply hydrating and softening" properties, which come courtesy of the nourishing emollient shea butter, alongside moisturise-giving carrot extract. The texture is reassuringly dense, and it leaves skin feeling repaired and soothed.
Calming Gel
Technically, this is a gel. And technically, the facialist Joanne Evans developed it for use on her patients post-treatment. But such are its calming and skin-protecting benefits (thanks to niacinamide and vitamin B5, among others) that it's excellent for eczema suffers – we recommend a thin layer over your moisturiser to calm and protect.
Mineral 89 100H Moisture Boosting Cream
Fragrance is, of course, a problem for some atopic eczema sufferers, and for them Dr Sommerlad recommends this super-rich formula (a cream version of its cult sister serum product), boosted with shea butter, squalane, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide for a multi-pronged moisture hit.
Exasoothe Daily Defense Cream
For lovers of a thick and unctuous formulation, there is this wondrous balm-in-cream from Murad. It offers immediate relief and reduction in redness thanks to colloidal oatmeal and, despite its density, doesn't leave a greasy residue behind.
Plant Ceramide Rich Moisture Cream
For anyone irritated by occlusives, Dr Sommerlad thinks this is a great option as it is "petrolatum-free and packed with ceramides". The vegan formula is also very quick to absorb, and leaves skin feeling instantly relieved and juicier.
Bounce Back Intense Peptide Moisturiser
"There are lots of great humectants, such as beta glucan and squalane, in this moisturiser," says Dr Sommerlad. "It also contains skin-barrier-strengthening probiotics and restorative peptides, so is a really comprehensive formula for eczema-prone skin."
Advanced Repair Ointment
Despite being a hardcore occlusive – packed with petrolatum and mineral oils (as well as ceramides) – this thick ointment goes on extremely smoothly and absorbs well. It's a good option to apply over moisturiser on particularly dry patches of skin.
The Rich Moisturiser
Dr Sommerlad loves this for "its ceramides and cholesterol (often found in skincare as an emollient) to strengthen the skin's barrier". It also comes with or without fragrance – a genius signature move by Caroline Hirons across her skincare line – meaning it works for everyone.
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