Even before the conflict, Bevza made a habit of weaving leitmotifs from her homeland into her shows and this season placed on each front-row seat was a piece from her capsule collection of jewelry inspired by the kalyna berry — a collaboration with Mastercard, the proceeds from which will help finance rehabilitation programs for injured children.
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For the clothes, she took the marigold flower as her inspiration. “In Ukraine, it symbolizes a mother’s love and revival,” she said backstage. “I had these flowers in my apartment. My grandfather and I planted the seeds once a year and when the war started we couldn’t do it anymore.”
She kept the tradition alive here, using them for her very first print on layered slip dresses in crushed viscose, which closed her lineup of monochromatic black and white looks. The show opener was a beaded tank top worn over pleated pants with slits along the sides of the leg, opening up as they walked to reveal micro-shorts underneath. Elsewhere, bra tops and bust details sexed up some otherwise clinical looking separates in Japanese cotton, while drop-waist skirts, which are trending on the runways, were shaped less like marigolds and more like upside-down tulips.
A minimalist through-and-through, Bevza’s played with transparencies and silken pajama-style tailoring that had a whiff of ‘90s Helmut Lang, which fashion zeitgeist this season under new creative director Peter Do.
Launch Gallery: Bevza RTW Spring 2024
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