The Brands You Need to Know Ahead of NYFW
Something feels different about this New York Fashion Week. Perhaps it’s the return of Calvin Klein’s runway collection or Doechii wearing all Thom Browne for her stellar Grammys performance (will she make an appearance at his show to close out NYFW?). Maybe it’s the creative director chaos the fashion industry has seen in the past six months alone. Or maybe, it’s just me.
Usually a bit less celebratory simply due to the cold February air, the autumn/winter shows feel like they’re going to be refreshing this year, at least for now as we start off the week. But what makes New York Fashion Week particularly exciting is the group of talented emerging designers that translate the New York spirit into ready-to-wear that’s edgy, rebellious, sleek, sporty, gritty, and everything in between. Below, we’ve rounded up the top emerging New York brands we’re keeping a close eye on, and that you should too.
Colleen Allen
Based in Brooklyn, Colleen Allen first debuted her womenswear collection for fall 2024 in a shock of vibrant, warm colors (orange, red, magenta, purple) and bright, vintage-feeling white. The result was a powerful yet soft femininity, a collection that felt modern and sculptural, but still reminiscent of a Victorian past. Allen, who interned under Raf Simons during his Calvin Klein era and designed menswear for The Row for two years, leans toward fine minimalism: utilizing the best materials to create wearable luxury.
Meruert Tolegen
Designed and produced in New York, Meruert Tolegen actually made her brand debut during Paris Fashion Week in 2022. It only makes sense, as Tolegen’s designs feel old world: billowing skirts, ruffled collars, lace, micro-florals. Ancient references give the collections a whimsical, Gothic feel, needing no further explanation than Lady Gaga wearing pieces from the spring/summer 2025 collection (shown in an Upper West Side church) in her “Disease” music video.
Campillo
Founded in 2017, Patricio Campillo drew from his childhood and Mexican heritage to create his menswear label, Campillo. The pieces blend traditional Mexican aesthetics with a contemporary approach to menswear. Sustainability is also deeply rooted in Campillo’s values, utilizing environmentally sustainable materials and manufacturing under fair labor standards. His designs quickly gained recognition among fashion insiders, leading him to become a semi-finalist for the prestigious 2024 LVMH Prize.
Jane Wade
Jane Wade has made “work” her work. With collections inspired by various aspects of corporate culture, Wade twists traditionally office-appropriate fabrics and silhouettes into gowns, miniskirts, bustiers, even chaps. For serious (read: boring) office folks, Wade’s ready-to-wear may seem just out of reach. But that’s exactly what makes the brand exciting: Everything is almost overly pragmatic. Ultra-strategically-placed snaps, zippers, pockets, and seams are integral to Wade’s design ethos, as are button-down shirts (with a twist, of course), wide-legged trousers, and chainmail. So while her hot, distorted silhouettes may seem whimsical, you can never say they’re “impractical.”
Kallmeyer
Not exactly an emerging designer, Daniella Kallmeyer has had her namesake brand since 2012, but it wasn’t until the pandemic that she opened her own store in the Lower East Side of New York and started showing collections during NYFW. Never designed for the male gaze, Kallmeyer makes streamlined everyday-wear for women of all lifestyles. Pieces are sleek, a mix of masculine and feminine, and evident of Kallmeyer’s fashion training in London. Beloved by Gwyneth Paltrow and Katie Holmes, Kallmeyer is more than a uniform, but a marker of impeccably chic taste.
Diotima
Rachel Scott founded her label, Diotima, in 2021 with a strong purpose of showcasing her Jamaican heritage and highlighting the intricate craftsmanship of Jamaican artisans. The name derives from the ancient Greek philosopher that inspired Plato’s theory of love, reflecting Scott’s studies in philosophy and art at university. The pieces themselves combine modern silhouettes with detailed works of crochet and hand-embellishments. Her work quickly garnered the attention of the industry; she was a semi-finalist for the 2023 LVMH prize and recently won the Empowered Vision Award from CFDA.
Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen
Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen has no interest in mass production. The clothes she makes are limited-edition or commissioned, using found or deadstock fabric that she turns into absolute magic. Another New York designer to lean a bit Victorian, Whalen does it in a way that blends fashion with art. Vintage silhouettes are transformed into even more exaggerated, modern shapes that feel almost geometric. Cage skirts, corsets, and napkin dresses, mostly in cream or ivory fabric, could easily be remnants of eras-past, but Whalen makes them rebellious and daring, easily wearable in today’s world or simply your own.
TWP
Trish Wescoat Pound—widely known by her brand’s initials, TWP—launched her label back in 2021. Originally from Oklahoma, Wescoat Pound moved to New York to realize her brand’s vision. However, she has managed to draw inspiration from both her Midwestern roots and the modern, metropolitan atmosphere of New York City. Her collections reflect utilitarian workwear from the American Midwest, combined with a contemporary sensibility. To further emphasize her American influence, all of her pieces are manufactured in New York. Of course, there are other influences seen throughout her collections, such as her innovative takes on tailoring and menswear-inspired shirting, which seamlessly complement her core influences.
Bevza
Svitlana Bevza founded her label in 2006. In 2019, she showcased her Ukrainian roots at New York Fashion Week, quickly capturing the attention of the fashion industry. Her pieces embody a lasting elegance with a minimalist approach, allowing the wearer to appreciate the fit and details of each garment. Bevza places great importance on her home and her Ukrainian heritage, which is reflected in both her local production in Kyiv and the inspiration and motifs she incorporates into each collection.
Ashlyn
After spending many years working alongside some of the industry’s most respected designers, such as Yohji Yamamoto and Raf Simons, Ashlynn Park decided to share her unique perspective through her own label, Ashlyn. Founded in 2020, Park established her brand with a strong emphasis on zero-waste production. Her pieces embody a minimalistic sensibility that combines precise pattern-making techniques with detailed draping, resulting in a timeless elegance.
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