Caroline Hu on Transforming the Adidas Samba Into Soft, Satin Armor
Hailed as one China's most promising talents in fashion, soon it'll be too late not to be versed in the reverie of Caroline Hu. Founded in 2018, Hu's eponymous Shanghai-based brand is among the new wave of Chinese fashion brands bringing its vision to the world. The tail end of 2023 saw Caroline Hu garner extra online buzz thanks to her customized take on the adidas Samba for her brand's Spring/Summer 2024 collection show for Paris Fashion Week. Due to popular demand, that partnership blossomed into an official lace adorned, satin covered collaboration with the Three Stripes.
It's easy to get lost in the dreamy combinations of texture and decadent detail in Hu's collections. Beneath those outer layers of tulle and silk, you'll find that the designer is classically trained, graduating from Central Saint Martins with a BA in womenswear design and a master's at Parsons School of Design in New York. In 2019, Hu took home the prize for the inaugural Business of Fashion China Prize and also became a finalist for the LVMH Young Designer Award.
In our latest instalment of Baes with Kicks, we caught up with Hu to hear how her interest in fashion was sparked, what she enjoyed most about designing a collection of collaborative adidas Sambas and more.
Name: Caroline Hu
City: Shanghai
Occupation: Fashion Designer
What first sparked your interest in fashion design? Did it happen at a young age?
My interest in fashion design was gradual, but started with my dad, who was a painter when he was young. He inspired me to paint and my interest expanded to ceramics and oil painting. My art tutor also always encouraged me to experiment with various materials to express ideas. Fashion has been a tool for me to experiment with and express my creative ideas.
Who or what are your biggest influences when it comes to designing?
I have been influenced by teachers throughout various stages of my life. In terms of designing, I see it as a journey of self discovery rather than being influenced by others. I love to explore different mediums such as painting, ceramics, fashion and sculpture to express my views and develop my perspectives.
For those who may be just getting acquainted with your brand, what is the first thing you would want them to know?
For those who are getting acquainted with my brand for the first time, I hope that they feel the romantic and abstract expression of the clothing. I want you to experience my work more than just seeing it with your eyes but by connecting to the stories and themes I express as they are related to my own feelings, surroundings and the events happening in the world at large.
How did your adidas Samba collaboration come about?
Adidas sponsored about 20 pairs of shoes, which I customized for my SS24 collection show during Paris Fashion Week. The collection was well received, and many buyers wanted to place orders for the shoes. This sparked an interest to make an official collaboration and I am very grateful for this partnership and to Edison Chen for the initial introduction.
Romance is an ongoing theme that is prevalent throughout your collections. What was the process of translating this to the design of an adidas Samba?
The main theme of my brand is "Romantic 'Til Death." For the past couple of seasons, I focused on the relationships between people and the effects that distance has on our interpersonal partnerships. While designing the Samba, we wanted to incorporate that theme to the design by adding soft lace and a satin pleated shell like a soft armor while keeping the shape of the Samba.
What did you enjoy most about translating your design language to the adidas Samba?
I enjoyed translating vibrant colors and abstract images into the design of the shoes. I wanted to break the boundaries of the different elements and use contrasting materials to create the overall look to create a softer and more interesting design.
What are you currently working on?
Our second collaboration with Adidas will be released around November. We will release our Spring/Summer 2025 collection at PFW at the end of September.
And lastly, what's your relationship with sneakers? Do you have a favorite pair?
I mostly wear sneakers in my daily life because they are practical and functional. I found it to be very interesting to design sneakers because they are such a big part of my daily style and I loved being able to integrate my own aesthetic into them. I wanted to strike a balance for people who might prefer something not too exaggerated, but still unique. I don't necessarily have a favorite, but I am really excited about the second Adidas drop!
