Chic Critique: Do sleeveless hoodies warrant cool-girl status?
Crafted from cloud-soft terry cloth and dotted with logo diamanté details, my first sleeveless hoodie was one to remember.
I have my aunt to thank for my introduction to the sporty silhouette. Ever-effortless and up-to-date with the covetable trends of the Côte d'Azur, she kindly gifted me an ivory Juicy Couture edition, complete with a coordinating pair of lace-trimmed capris.
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It was the dream Noughties set and marked the peak of my Y2K wardrobe.
Cue 2024, when the trend cycle deemed the sleeve-free zip-ups cool again. Suddenly, many a Dalston dweller and Portobello voyager sported the Paris Hilton-approved piece, typically teamed with low-slung cargo pants and a quilted crossbody.
It makes sense, considering the ongoing captivation with all things pre-2010.
Famed faces such as the Hilton heiress and various Disney stars were frequently spotted in the divisive top. Akin to a kitsch gilet, the easy-wear piece was more South of France chic than Sloaney staple.
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Rooted in the bodybuilding scene of the 1980s, sleeveless hoodies became the ultimate uniform of gym rats. Primed for muscle flexing and sweat patch showcasing, the bicep-brandishing vests were primarily worn by male athletes.
The 2000s oversaw a pivot for the garment. The sleeveless hoodie strayed from the treadmill and onto the streets, influenced by hip-hop culture and celebrity endorsements. It was embraced as a stylish yet laid-back piece of clothing that could be worn both in and out of the gym. Brands like Nike, Adidas, and various urban streetwear labels began to incorporate sleeveless hoodies into their collections, often adding edgy designs, bold logos, and modern materials.
Call me biassed, but the Juicy renditions reigned supreme. The iconic sets were the early 2000s' crown jewel of casual luxury - plush velour dipped in a sugar rush of bubblegum pinks and baby blues. Bedazzled logos roared unapologetic city princess while unleashing one’s inner A-lister.
The true charm of the sleeveless hoodie lies in the fact that it’s so bad, it’s good.
Undeniably anti-chic, the garment is the rebellious sister of the mooch-worthy hoodie. One does not lounge in a sleeveless option. They are to be worn while reclining beachside in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, paired with an adorable bikini (preferably monogrammed Dior) and flatform thong sandals. Definitely not to the gym in an unironic sense.
Unexpectedly, the design has also been adopted by gorpcore enthusiasts. Variations cut from rainproof nylon and khaki hues, a rock climber's default palette, have started cropping up. Savvy shoppers are plucking preloved Cop Copine gems from the depths of Depop, while Gen Z style spearheads like Mia Regan and designer Vivien Tang are championing the design for all to see.
As are luxury houses. N21 sent ruched, blossom pink creations down the runway, tickling the fancy of Blumarine lovers and girlish dressers. JW Anderson incorporated the design into its menswear collection, debuting sand-toned options for those with a flair for laidback West Coast attire. Mowalola crafted a jet black cropped piece that wouldn't look out of place in Berghain. Talk about range.
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While far from being a wardrobe staple, the tongue-in-cheek layer blends function with a touch of bravado, living comfortably between casual and bold.
Call me nostalgic, but I love the kitschiness of the piece. Perfect for drizzly London weather and in-office layering, sleeveless hoodies are a lighthearted take on everyday wear. Now, where did I put mine…?
