A Comprehensive Guide to Buying the Perfect Diamond Jewelry

Your first diamond purchase is a moment you never forget. Whether it’s a pair of diamond earrings or an engagement ring, these jewelry pieces are designed to last and often mark a special occasion.

Diamond jewelry generally falls on the more expensive side and is considered a luxury item. With such a significant price tag attached to diamonds, it’s important to move through the shopping process with careful consideration. From the cut of the diamond to its setting style, there are many factors to think about before ultimately making a purchase. If you’re struggling to find a starting point or are unsure about how to evaluate the quality of diamonds you’ve been eyeing, we’ve got you covered.

We spoke with Olivia Landau, a fourth-generation GIA-certified gemologist and founder of The Clear Cut, to get her tips for shopping for diamonds. Keep scrolling to find a complete guide on how to select diamonds that suit your style and budget.

Know the 4Cs

Before starting the process of buying a diamond, it’s crucial to have a clear understanding of the 4Cs. Each of the 4Cs—cut, color, clarity, and carat—are characteristics that will help you evaluate the overall quality and value of a diamond, according to Landau.

Cut

The cut of a diamond refers to its overall shape and is one of the most important factors to consider. “The cut determines how well a diamond reflects light, which affects its brilliance, fire, and sparkle,” says Landau. “A well-cut diamond will appear more vibrant and dazzling, regardless of its size.” She explains that round brilliant diamonds are the only style to have a cut grade, while other diamond shapes are referred to as “fancy shapes” with a polish and symmetry designation. The cut, polish, and symmetry of these shapes will be graded as excellent, very good, good, fair, or poor.

Color

When it comes to color, diamonds that lack color are actually considered more valuable because, as Landau explains, more light can pass through them which enhances the brilliance of the stone. All diamonds are graded on a scale from D—colorless diamonds—to Z—diamonds with a yellow or brown tint. While a D-graded diamond is often the most in-demand, a stone that falls in the middle can be more budget-friendly. “Near-colorless diamonds—grades G to J—can also appear white to the naked eye and may offer better value,” says Landau.

Clarity

The clarity of a diamond measures whether there are any inclusions or blemishes on the stone, which impacts a diamond’s overall value. These internal and external flaws are graded on a scale from Flawless (FL) to Included (I). While flawless diamonds are considered the most valuable, they are also rare, so don’t count out diamonds with small inclusions when making a purchase. “Most inclusions are microscopic, so a diamond with slight inclusions—VS1 or VS2—can still appear flawless to the naked eye,” says Landau.

Carat

“Carat refers to the diamond’s physical weight, not size,” explains Landau. “Larger diamonds are rarer and more expensive, but carat alone doesn’t determine value.” While you might have your mind set on a specific carat weight, explore a variety of sizes in different styles to find the one that works best for your needs. A large carat weight may not necessarily equate to the overall best-looking diamond. “A smaller, well-cut diamond with excellent color and clarity may appear more stunning than a larger, lower-quality diamond,” says Landau.

Setting a Realistic Budget

Once you have a solid understanding of the 4Cs, you’ll want to set a budget for your diamond jewelry. In the case of engagement rings, Landau recommends discussing a budget with your partner to make sure your expectations align. Then, decide which diamond characteristics are the most important to you, whether that’s carat weight or cut. “Research prices based on your desired 4C balance to understand what fits your budget,” advises Landau. “Keep in mind that small adjustments in color or clarity can significantly impact price without noticeable differences in appearance.”

Popular Diamond Shapes

After narrowing down your diamond criteria and budget, it’s time to make a few style decisions. Diamonds come in a variety of shapes, from oval to marquise, and each offers its own unique set of characteristics. Deciding on a shape is mostly up to your preferences, so here are some of the popular diamond shapes you should know.

Round Brilliant

A round brilliant diamond is one of the most classic shapes. According to Landau, the round-shaped diamond features “58 facets designed to maximize sparkle and brilliance.” It’s a timeless and versatile shape that she says makes it suitable for any setting or style.

Oval

A variation of a traditional round diamond, oval-cut diamonds have an elongated round shape. Landau says this shape can create “the illusion of longer fingers while offering a similar brilliance to the Round.” It’s a modern and sophisticated choice that can also make a diamond appear larger.

Emerald

Another elegant option is an emerald-cut diamond. Landau says the rectangular-shaped diamond features “step-cut facets that emphasize clarity over brilliance,” which gives it a clean and understated appearance. She also notes that emerald diamonds highlight clarity, as the linear facets help more light shine through the stone.

Cushion

Cushion-cut diamonds feature a combination of shapes. According to Landau, a cushion-cut diamond resembles a pillow with its square or rectangular shape and rounded corners. This shape offers a more vintage and romantic appearance.

Pear

If you’re in the market for a statement shape, consider a pear-shaped diamond. A pear diamond is “shaped like a teardrop with a pointed end” making for a bold and unique piece of jewelry, says Landau. The eye-catching design can be worn two ways, with the pointed end facing upwards or downwards.

Marquise

Marquise diamonds are considered a symbol of vintage glamour. Landau explains that a marquise diamond is “shaped like a football with pointed ends” which offers a “dramatic and eye-catching effect.” She also notes that the unique style can create the illusion of a larger diamond.

Different Diamond Settings

After you’ve chosen a diamond shape, you’ll want to decide how you’d like the stone to be set. “When it comes to setting styles, different diamond shapes pair best with specific designs, each offering distinct benefits,” says Landau. Here are a few of the diamond setting styles to note.

Solitaire

A solitaire setting features a diamond that is set in a piece on its own with no accent diamonds. Landau says this style “highlights the diamond as the focal point” and emphasizes a diamond’s overall size and quality. A solitaire setting complements round brilliant, oval, emerald, cushion-shaped diamonds.

Bezel

In a bezel setting, there is a metal frame that surrounds the whole diamond. According to Landau, “It offers a modern, sleek look and excellent protection, making it perfect for active lifestyles.” Consider a round brilliant, oval, emerald, or antique-cut diamond with this setting style.

East-West

An east-west setting places a diamond horizontally rather than vertically. Landau notes that this setting offers “a unique and modern twist that highlights the diamond’s length.” This would pair well with oval, marquise, emerald, or pear-shaped diamonds.

Halo

In a halo setting, smaller diamonds are placed around a center diamond which creates a halo. This style will enhance the brilliance of the diamonds and make the center stone appear larger, says Landau. For an especially glamorous appearance, pair a halo setting with a round brilliant, cushion, oval, or pear-shaped diamond.

How to Find a Reputable Jeweler

With so many places to shop for diamonds, both online and in-store, it can be difficult to know where to buy. Landau recommends doing some research on your jeweler, determining whether they are a graduate gemologist, if they work with natural or lab-grown diamonds, and, in the case of natural diamonds, whether the diamonds are GIA-certified. Even affordable diamond jewelry can cost upwards of $1,000, so you want to work with a jeweler who has great reviews or comes heavily recommended. “Choose a jeweler who listens to your preferences and doesn’t pressure you into a purchase,” advises Landau. "A jeweler who will guide you through the shopping process and understand that buying diamonds is a big purchase will help make you more confident in your decisions."

How to Use Grading Reports

Once you’ve found a diamond you’d like to purchase, check to see if it comes with a trusted grading report, such as one from the Gemological Institute of America. “Focus on the key attributes of the 4Cs, which will be detailed in the report,” advises Landau. “Check for any comments regarding fluorescence or inclusions that might affect appearance.” You’ll also want to verify the measurements and proportions of the diamond to ensure it aligns with the overall cut grade. Landau suggests comparing grading reports for multiple diamonds to “find the best balance of quality and value.”

Making a Final Purchase

It’s important to be confident in your choice of diamonds before purchasing, so don’t feel as if you need to rush into it. “Compare multiple options to see how different diamonds look in person, verify the diamond’s grading report and authenticity, consider the setting style and ensure it complements the diamond shape, and work with a jeweler you trust,” says Landau. Once all the technical decisions have been made, you should ultimately trust your instincts and go for the diamonds that feel the most right to you.

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