From Crunchy to Chic: How Granola Became Fine Dining's New It Ingredient
The word alone has immediate connotations. "Granola" brings to mind a certain type of situation or place with a whiff of earnestness (or perhaps even patchouli) and a kind of back-to-the-earth sensibility. It isn't something you'd ever mistake for haute cuisine. Or, at least, it never was before; but times seem to be changing.
These days, the longtime breakfast staple of the Patagonia set is experiencing something of a revival and finding itself in a new and unexpected place: fine dining menus. Whether it's a textural garnish or playing a leading role in a main course, granola is having a renaissance and being used in surprising and innovative ways.
One of the first chefs to introduce granola to savory dishes was Dan Kluger, the owner of Loring Place in New York Ctiy. His spicy granola, made with oats, pumpkin seeds, cashews, and red pepper flakes, is used to add crunch to his signature roasted acorn squash (seen above). “Granola, especially when it's a blend of toasted grains and soft chewy dried fruit elements, is a great way to add texture and richness to a dish,” says Kluger. “I’ll even add it to something like a roasted chicken or pork loin if I did those really simple with just some herbs and lemon.”
Chef Quang "Q" Nguyen of Cool World, one of Brooklyn’s buzziest new eateries, uses a savory granola to add a delicious crunch to his take on the classic wedge salad, which also includes smoked shiitake mushrooms, a black garlic ranch dressing, and a generous helping of fresh dill. “I decided to go with a savory granola because, number one, I wanted texture," Nguyen says. "If I’m eating any salad, I want it to be crunchy and crisp. Iceberg lettuce is great with bringing that fresh, crisp aspect to the party, but then I want a real crunch. Cue the mix of toasted seeds: pumpkin, sunflower and sesame. And roasted oats also help with bringing its own style of crunch. The second reason is flavor. We season it with some nutritional yeast for umami and honey for a touch of sweetness."
You also see this approach at Five Acres at Rockefeller Center, where chef Greg Baxtrom uses a savory granola to add dimension to his veggie-forward salad of shaved fennel and cucumber. “Ours eats more like a coleslaw. It's a bit lighter,” Baxtom says of his rendition. “And that’s where the granola idea came in. Let’s keep it light and peppery! Ours is made with sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, amaranth, and flax, and we season with a lot of pepper and paprika. It’s the perfect bite.”
And it’s not just chefs who are obsessing over granola. Tom Bannister, a former advertising executive and lifelong granola connoisseur, started the brand Tom’s Perfect 10 when he couldn’t find a blend that was just right. Bannister tested different flavors and granola combinations in his New York City apartment with his wife Eva Chen and their three kids, as a way to bond. Using Instagram for market research, he polls over two million followers across his and Chen's accounts for feedback on flavor ideas, taste, texture, and more for each of the monthly flavors. Those that get rave reviews and achieve “Perfect 10” status will become permanently available. Ginger Zing, the first flavor to achieve perfect 10 status, is made with ginger-infused maple syrup, candied ginger, almonds, pecans, and a light touch of black pepper.
“A breakfast for many, a snack for some and a midnight treat for more than a few, granola is an exceptionally versatile food," Bannister says, summing up his love for granola. "I have made 25 flavors in two years ranging from sweet, spicy, savory to sour. There's a perfect granola out there for everybody."
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