The Definitive Guide to Socks
Socks get a bad rap. They may not have the architectural impact of a tailored suit, the drama of a wonderful overcoat, or the easy charm of a perfect pair of jeans, but they can still be cool, luxurious, stylish. They can even be—dare we say—great.
That is to say, socks are more important than you may think. Even when you can’t see them, they’re doing a job. And if they’re doing that job badly, you’ll feel it. One could even argue that, sartorially speaking, there are few things worse than an ill-chosen sock. Something too thin and breezy on a cold winter’s day, for instance. Or something that sags down your shin underneath a suit. Worse still: a “novelty sock.”
For those unsure of where their sock journey begins, the safe bet is something in a mid-weight cotton and an easy, inoffensive colour. I have long been a fan of Uniqlo’s Colourful 50 socks, which aren’t as thick as a sporty tube sock, but are sturdy enough to stave off a chilly breeze. (And four pairs will set you back less than £14.)
The marled gray colourway is universal and reliable. It’s perhaps a little casual with tailoring, but great with denim and sneakers. I also have them in black—which, along with navy, is a go-to with suits and trousers—white, and a range of pool-ball colours that I reach for to wear with loafers or derbies when I want that rakish, eccentric school-master vibe espoused by the likes of Drake’s and Polo Ralph Lauren. Purple is especially good for that.
But there’s a whole lot more to this journey than finding a great everyday option, so let’s dive in.
Formal Socks
Historically, formal men’s socks were super thin, almost like stockings, and you can still find those sorts of styles at brands like Pantherella, Falke, and London Sock Co., but they are now really only reserved for wearing with patent leather shoes or classic ‘opera pump’ loafers for super formal events. Even then, it’s a niche look, appropriate for those wanting to go Full Gatsby.
Today, in sock terms, “formal” just means not chunky or sporty. A mid-gauge mix of cashmere, silk, wool, and/or cotton would be fine, you just don’t want them too chunky or thick; socks like that can stuff your shoes and make them look bloated. You also want a formal sock to run a little higher up the leg. Purists will argue they must go over the calf. We say they simply need to be high enough to not reveal any skin when you’re seated and stay up all day. The last thing you want in the evening is a puddle of hosiery around your ankles.
They can be a solid colour, or spotted, maybe striped. Even white socks can be formal, if you ask us. Not with your workaday business suit or khakis, mind you. But as a contrast to chunky black lace-ups with a more vintage-inspired look, or something intentionally fashion-forward? Sure!
Sporty Socks
Speaking of white socks: Let’s consider the other ones. The ones you probably know better than anything else out there, because you have a drawer full of them. Yep, we’re talking about athletic crew socks. They’re sometimes colloquially called tube socks—i.e., knitted in an actual tube—though most modern iterations are shaped to align with the anatomy of your foot. They’re made of thick cotton, with a reinforced heel and toe. They’re a great option for everyday wear. And they can be a bunch of colours (and patterns) other than white, too.
Since they’re a sportswear staple, options abound from companies like Nike, Adidas, Under Armour—take your pick. But may I recommend upgrading to a more considered version? British utility brand TWC, for example, does a pair of “varsity” socks in knitted cotton that will last longer and feel better on your feet than you’d ever expect. Similar pairs can be found at Todd Snyder, Drake’s, American Trench, and anywhere stocking Japanese workwear brands. Failing that, buy a three-pack of classic "Americana Crew" socks, made in Missouri by the Railroad Sock Company since 1901. Your feet will thank you.
One Move to Try
You may be tempted to wear your athletic socks with sneakers exclusively. That’s fine. But they also work well with boots (provided they aren’t too dressy) and loafers. The latter point was proven by short-shorts advocate and man of the moment, Paul Mescal. Last summer, the Irish actor attended a Gucci fashion show in boxer-style shorts, a blue dress shirt, black penny loafers, and chunky white socks. People have been yammering about it ever since—and with good reason.
But the look is nothing new, in fact the combo of shorts, loafers, and athletic socks is as American as apple pie. One need only look at photos of preppy students on leafy college campuses in the ‘60s, or of Paul Newman at leisure, to see that few socks compliment a classic penny loafer better than a chunky white sock.
A Few Thoughts on Colour—and a Couple Final Tips
In terms of colour, the solid, slightly somber move is to roughly match your socks to the main colour of your shoe. A black lace-up with a black or charcoal sock, a brown suede boot with an earth-tone sock, a white tennis shoe with a white athletic sock, and so on. But as with all accessories, there is scope to play around. Sock brands like RoToTo (which you can find at Todd Snyder) and Freight, and hardy fashion brands like Margaret Howell, offer well-made, textured socks in alpaca wool or merino, and all are designed to add a little more interest to a look than your classic ribbed cotton sock.
Think of socks like ties or watch straps. They can either coordinate with the rest of the look to contribute to the overall aesthetic mood, or they can stand out. I rarely wear red socks, for example, but sometimes I get the urge to sandwich them between a pair of white denim jeans and black Chelsea boots.
It’s also good to think of socks not as equal, but as individual, and each for a certain purpose. Those Uniqlo socks I mentioned earlier are great for everyday wear, but you might want to wear something more special to a wedding, or to pad around the house on a wintry Sunday afternoon. You might not want to go as far as spending hundreds of dollars on a single pair of cashmere socks from Brunello Cucinelli or The Elder Statesman, but if you’re willing to spend around £40, you can find something that feels genuinely special.
In the end, the “right” pair of socks is the one that works for the situation, the outfit—even your mood. Choose wisely, and everything else you’re wearing will be better off for it.
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