These Derm-Approved Retinol Alternatives Target Fine Lines Without Irritation

Dermatologists love retinol—a form of vitamin A that has been shown to reduce wrinkles, dark spots, and acne scars all while boosting collagen production. The beloved active is available in prescription products that target acne, as well as over-the-counter serums and creams that promise firmer skin and fewer fine lines. Retinol works by boosting collagen production and increasing the speed of skin cell turnover, revealing fresh, smooth skin and reducing the likelihood that pores become clogged with dead skin cells. It's a powerful ingredient, but with that comes downsides. Introducing retinol to your routine brings the potential for irritation, flakiness, and purging in some. Luckily, those looking for a gentler option have plenty to choose from. From nourishing vitamin derivatives like niacinamide to exfoliants like glycolic acid, there's a retinol alternative for everyone. Ahead, three dermatologists share their favorite retinol substitutes, the issues they target, and how to incorporate them into your skincare routine.

Meet Our Expert

·     Kristina Collins, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and co-owner of Austin Skin.

·     Dr. Nicole Ruth, MD, DO, FAAD, is a New York City-based board-certified dermatologist.

·     Dr. Ellen Marmur, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of MMSkincare.

What is Retinol?

Retinol is a vitamin A derivative used in skincare products to promote cell turnover and stimulate collagen production. It belongs to a class of compounds known as retinoids and is available in both over-the-counter and prescription-strength formulations. “Retinol is the most common OTC retinoid and most widely studied and evidence-based topical treatment for slowing down the skin’s aging process,” says Kristina Collins, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and co-owner of Austin Skin.

“Retinol decongests pores, stimulates collagen production and reduces pigmentation in the skin,” says Dr. Ellen Marmur, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of MMSkincare. “It’s great for anyone looking to improve the texture of their skin and lesson the appearance of wrinkles."

Retinol Benefits

“Retinol is highly effective at improving the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by boosting collagen production, which provides structural support to the skin,” says Dr. Nicole Ruth, MD, DO, FAAD, a New York City-based board-certified dermatologist. “It also reduces hyperpigmentation, leading to a more even skin tone. For those suffering from breakouts, retinol can unclog pores, reduce breakouts, and diminish the appearance of acne scars over time.”

Dr. Marmur recommends incorporating retinol in your skincare routine starting in your late 20s or early 30s. “About the time when maintaining skin health comes into play," she says.

Common Side Effects of Retinol

While retinol is highly effective, it can cause side effects particularly when first introduced, including dryness, itching, tightness, redness, peeling, and sensitivity. “These issues can be uncomfortable but are usually temporary as the skin adjusts,” says Dr. Ruth. “If you're someone who likes instant gratification, understand it can take several weeks to months to see noticeable results with consistent use.”

“Because retinol disrupts the skin’s barrier, it can make the skin more sensitive to the sun,” adds Dr. Marmur. “Similarly, as the skin is turning over, there may be initial worsening of acne known as the ‘purge’ before a fresh layer of skin settles in. Once a patient has adjusted to retinol, potential adverse effects generally improve. The key is to start slowly and gradually increase the amount of concentration and number of weekly applications once your skin adapts.

Benefits of Retinol Alternatives

Some individuals who find a traditional OTC or prescription retinol too irritating may benefit from using a retinol alternative, including those with sensitive skin, eczema and rosacea. “People who are pregnant or breastfeeding are also candidates for retinol alternatives as high levels of vitamin A can pose risks during pregnancy,” says Dr. Ruth.

“A retinol alternative is also a good choice for anyone just starting to use skincare products with active ingredients,” adds Dr. Marmur.

Popular Retinol Alternatives

Bakuchiol

What it is: Bakuchiol is a natural compound derived from the leaves and seeds of the babchi plant. “It has roots in Chinese medicine and is often called ‘nature’s retinol’ because it’s thought to boost collagen production and fight acne,” says Dr. Collins. “It’s also considered a potent antioxidant and a gentler alternative to retinol.”

Why it’s a good alt: Bakuchiol supports collagen production, enhances cell turnover, and improves skin tone and texture without the irritation associated with traditional retinoids. And unlike retinol, it doesn’t cause photosensitivity, so it can be used both day and night use. “It’s also safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding,” says Dr. Ruth.

Side effects: Virtually none, but some individuals may experience mild redness or dryness, especially if using other skin care products with active ingredients.

Rosehip Oil

What it is: A natural, cold-pressed oil extracted from the seeds of wild rose bushes, rosehip oil is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins A and C, and antioxidants, making it a nourishing and restorative ingredient for the skin. “Its high level of pro-vitamin A gives it properties similar to retinol, but in a much gentler form,” says Dr. Ruth.

Why it’s a good alt: Rosehip oil helps brighten skin, fade dark spots, and reduce fine lines and wrinkles while supporting skin regeneration and improving elasticity. “Its anti-inflammatory and hydrating properties make it suitable for sensitive or dry skin types,” says Dr. Ruth.

Side effects: “Rosehip oil is generally well-tolerated but it’s an oil, so may cause mild irritation or breakouts in individuals with very oily or acne-prone skin,” says Dr. Ruth. “Additionally, overuse can lead to clogged pores in some skin types, so moderation is key.”

Niacinamide

What it is: Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that helps strengthen the skin barrier, regulate oil production, and reduce inflammation. “It can also help neutralize free radicals and minimize DNA damage in skin cells,” says Dr. Collins.

Why it’s a good alt: Niacinamide offers many of the same benefits as retinol—helping improve skin texture, fading dark spots and creating an even skin tone without the risk of irritation. “It also soothes redness and acne, making it ideal for sensitive or compromised skin,” says Dr. Ruth. Unlike retinol, niacinamide can be used morning and night, and it pairs well with other actives like hyaluronic acid and peptides. “Vitamin B also plays a role in skin cancer prevention when used consistently,” adds Dr. Collins.

Side effects: Niacinamide is generally considered safe and well-tolerated by most skin types. “However, in rare cases, it may cause mild redness or itching, especially if used in high concentrations,” says Dr. Ruth. “People with sensitive skin should introduce it gradually to avoid potential irritation and always follow up with a broad-spectrum sunscreen.”

Other Alternatives

Licorice Extract

What it is: Derived from the root of the glycyrrhiza glabra plant, licorice is known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties and for reducing hyperpigmentation.

Why it’s a good alt: “Licorice contains glycyrrhetinic acid and glabridin, compounds that inhibit melanin production,” says Dr. Collins. “It can help diminish dark spots without causing irritation.” Unlike retinol, licorice extract doesn’t cause photosensitivity, so can be used both day and night. “It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it ideal for conditions like rosacea,” says Dr. Ruth.

Side effects: Licorice extract is generally safe for most skin types, although in rare cases it may cause mild irritation or redness with extremely sensitive skin or those with a history of allergies to licorice or skin disorders such as eczema,” says Dr. Ruth “It’s also important to note excessive use could lead to a temporary lightening of the skin.”

Glycolic Acid

What it is: Chemical alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic acid work by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells, revealing brighter skin below. “They help improve skin texture, fade dark spots and reduce fine lines,” says Dr. Marmur.

Why it’s a good alt: “Glycolic acid is an effective exfoliant, helping to reduce pigment and improve skin texture,” says Dr. Ruth.

Side effects: Dryness and irritation can occur if used too often. “But it’s generally very well tolerated,” notes Dr. Ruth.

Peptides:

What it is: Short chains of amino acids that help boost collagen production, peptides help improve elasticity and reduce the appearance of fine lines. “One, known as acetyl hexapeptide-8, softens expression lines and promotes skin smoothness by reducing micro-tensions in facial muscles,” says Dr. Marmur.

Why it’s a good alt: Peptides derived from plants are gentle on the skin and act as anti-inflammatories. “They also don’t increase sun sensitivities,” says Dr. Marmur.

Side effects: While gentle, peptides can still cause mild irritation and potential purging in some patients.

How to Use Retinol Alternatives

Working a retinol alternative into a skincare regimen requires a thoughtful approach—you’ll want to maximize benefits while minimizing potential irritation. “Begin with twice-weekly applications and gradually increase to nightly use if your skin tolerates it well,” says Dr. Ruth. After cleansing, apply a pearl size amount of your retinol alternative to clean, dry skin, followed by a hydrating moisturizer to lock in moisture and enhance absorption. “Protecting the skin from UV damage is crucial for maintaining results so be sure to apply a sunscreen during the day,” notes Dr. Ruth. For those with sensitive skin, patch-testing the product on a small area before a full-face application is recommended.

The Takeaway

If you find retinols irritating to your skin, talk to your dermatologist about a retinol alternative, which can provide similar benefits without the common side effects. While these alternatives may not deliver results as quickly or intensely as prescription-strength retinoids, they will provide a gentler, more accessible solution for maintaining radiant skin. “Ultimately, the choice depends on your skin type, tolerance, and personal skincare goals,” says Dr. Ruth.

Frequently asked Questions

Who shouldn’t use a retinol alternative?

While retinol alternatives are generally considered gentler and suitable for a wide range of skin types, there are certain situations where caution is warranted. “People with severe or cystic acne may not see the same level of improvement with alternatives compared to stronger, prescription-strength retinoids,” says Dr. Ruth. “Additionally, some individuals may be allergic to plant-based ingredients.” Pregnant patients should always consult with their obstetrician and dermatologist before starting any new topical.

Is it true retinol alternatives work best on younger skins?

No. It’s a common misconception that retinol alternatives are less effective on older skins. “While younger individuals with fewer signs of aging may notice quicker improvements in texture and tone, retinol alternatives are beneficial for all age groups,” says Dr. Ruth. “Because retinol alternatives support collagen production and prevent premature aging, they’re an excellent preventative option for younger individuals while remaining an effective tool for those with established signs of aging.”

Can you use a retinol alternative beyond the face?

Yes. Retinol alternatives can be used on various parts of the body to improve skin texture, tone, and firmness. “Consider areas like the neck, chest and hands, which are prone to sun damage and show signs of aging,” says Dr. Ruth. They can also be applied to rough patches on the elbows and knees and areas prone to hyperpigmentation, such as the underarms or inner thighs. Regular use on the décolletage can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and maintain smooth, youthful skin. “Just as with facial use, applying a moisturizer afterward and using sunscreen on exposed areas are essential to protect and enhance results,” adds Dr. Ruth.

Which is best—a serum or a cream retinol alternative?

“Oily skin tends to fare better with a serum, whereas a cream is more suitable for drier skin,” says Dr. Marmur.

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