Does SPF cause spots? Plus, 10 best sunscreens for oily skin
Sunscreen is imperative all year long but as we transition into spring, it's more important than ever to be diligent with your sun protection. Thankfully, there really is a formula for everyone.
Korean sunscreens are famed for their elegant textures, while Australian SPFs have set a gold-standard for high-quality ingredients and rigorous testing. Moisturisers with SPF have never been more popular (especially for daily use) and on holiday, a good SPF oil will offer protection and a dewy gleam.
However, finding the best SPF for oily skin can be a tricky task – especially for those who are scarred by the thick, heavy formulas of yesteryear. There are, however, plenty of modern SPFs that cater to grease-prone skin types, so fear not.
Meet the experts
Dr Alexis Granite, consultant dermatologist and founder of Joonbyrd bodycare
Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist at SELF London
Dr Dennis Gross, board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of Dr Dennis Gross skincare
Can sunscreen actually cause breakouts?
Yes, but it's not exclusively the sun filters themselves. Rather, specific ingredients that are added to the formula. "Some sunscreens contain heavier oils and emollients that can cause congestion and worsen breakouts," explains consultant dermatologist Dr Alexis Granite. "For this reason it’s especially important to use a sunscreen specifically formulated for facial skin, not the body, as these will be lighter and less comedogenic [pore-clogging]."
Consultant dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto echoes this, adding: "Sunscreens with a rich, greasy texture can also exacerbate oiliness, leading to clogged pores and acne," she explains. "Additionally, some sunscreens contain fragrances and/or alcohol, which can irritate sensitive skin and trigger inflammation, potentially worsening breakouts in some people."
That's not to demonise these specific ingredients, but if your skin is reactive to them, it is best to seek out alternatives.
Does oily skin need SPF?
No matter your skin tone or type, sunscreen is the most important step in your skincare routine as it functions as more than just a beauty product – it's also the skin's shield against potential skin cancer, so don't forget to apply on lips and harder to reach areas.
While vitamin D and sunlight is imperative for our health and body, the NHS cautions that there is no safe way to naturally tan and advises that SPF should be worn in the daytime. "The sun is our skin’s worst enemy when it comes to skin cancer, damage, and premature ageing — this is why wearing an SPF every day is so important," says board-certified dermatologist Dr Dennis Gross. "Even if you have oily skin, daily SPF is crucial to protect against UV damage."
What to look for in a sunscreen for oily skin
Oil-free formulations are always a good idea, as are those labelled non-comedogenic. "Serums, sprays and gels are particularly good textures to trial for oily skin types," suggests Dr Granite. Mineral sunscreens are also generally recommended for acne and oil-prone complexions as they uses zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, ingredients that tend to play well with oily and acne-prone skin.
Historically, mineral SPFs have been known to leave behind a white or grey cast, but there are new-gen mineral sunscreens that don't as they opt for much smaller zinc particles. Just bear in mind that you might need to spend a few more seconds massaging in the product.
"Lightweight, gel-based or water-based formulas, which won’t clog pores or leave a greasy residue are better suited to oily skin types rather than thick, heavy, creamy textures," adds Dr Mahto. "You can also look for sunscreens with additional ingredients that will benefit oily skin such as niacinamide. This can help regulate oil production and calm inflammation, making them a good choice for acne-prone skin."
Ultra-light hydrators such as low-molecular weight hyaluronic acid and glycerin will also deliver plumpness and comfort without clogging pores.
How to care for oily skin
Beyond finding the right formula, do consider the rest of your skincare routine as your sunscreen may not be the only culprit behind breakouts.
Personally, as a beauty editor with oily and acne-prone skin, I find that using a moisturiser with SPF is best – instead of layering two different products. It gives enough hydration, skincare benefits and protection. In the winter, or when I need extra moisture, I'll simply layer a hydrating serum underneath. Properly double cleansing in the evening is also key to ensuring your pores are clarified.
Dr Gross seconds this. "Taking time to properly cleanse will ensure that the skin is free of dirt, debris, SPF, and make-up. Look for a cleanser with alpha and beta hydroxy acids, which will loosen the glue that holds dead skin cells to the new ones underneath," he says.
If your preference is for a separate day cream and SPF, heed Dr Mahto's advice and opt for a lightweight moisturiser for oily skin that won't contribute to excess sebum, and see our list of non-clogging SPFs below.
The best, Bazaar-approved SPFs for oily skin
Ultra Violette Fave Fluid SPF 50+ Skinscreen
Ultra Violette often excels with sunscreen in terms of efficacy and wearability but Fave Fluid is a cut above. The texture feels like water and melts seamlessly into skin, leaving no trace. It is as lightweight as can be, sits well under make-up and contains caring ingredients such as vitamin E and amino acids for healthy skin maintenance.
Type: Chemical
SPF: 50
Texture: Water-milk
Key ingredients: Amino acids, niacinamide
Supergoop Every Single Face SPF50 Watery Lotion
This lightweight lotion feels like a sheer moisturiser but packs powerful sun protection that shields skin from harmful rays. It sinks in quickly, doesn't make oily skin feel greasy by midday and sits nicely under make-up without any pilling. Very oily skin can get away with using this instead of a day cream, too, as it leaves the complexion feeling soft and hydrated.
Type: Chemical
SPF: 50
Texture: Light lotion
Key ingredients: Ginger root extract (antioxidant), niacinamide
Clarins Invisible Sun Care Stick SPF50+
This French favourite is gentle enough for the whole family and is easily portable due to its solid nature. While most stick formulas can feel a little heavy and greasy, this invisible SPF goes on clear and sits comfortably on all skin types, even sensitive ones. The addition of aloe vera feels soothing and cooling on sun-warmed skin while argan oil maintains hydration.
Type: Chemical
SPF: 50
Texture: Clear stick
Key ingredients: Aloe vera, argan oil, vitamin E
Heliocare 360 Water Gel SPF50+
Dermatologists rate Heliocare for its high-level, full spectrum sun filters that protect from not only UVA/UVB, but also visible light and infrared (the brand's exclusive Fernblock tech promises to defend the skin from future sun damage). This refreshing water-gel texture delivers featherweight hydration and imparts a soft glow, making it ideal for dry weather and those with combination skin.
Type: Chemical
SPF: 50
Texture: Milky water gel
Key ingredients: Hyaluronic acid, fern extract
Pers Daily Protection Gel SPF 50+
Overseen by cosmetic doctor Antoni Calmon, this French brand aims to simplify your skincare routine through hard-hitting actives delivered with velvet gloves. Calmon understands that no tweakment is worth doing if you're not protecting your skin, so this SPF is formulated to fit seamlessly into your routine and treatments – no matter your skin tone. It goes on completely clear, contains antioxidants, and doubles as a make-up primer.
Type: Chemical
SPF: 50
Texture: Clear gel
Key ingredients: Vitamin E
Dior Solar The Protective Creme SPF50
A personal favourite of Dr Mahto, Dior Solar SPF50 is creamier in consistency compared to everything else on this list, but somehow manages to feel like second skin on oil-prone complexions. More mature skin will drink this up, and it feels especially comforting during the cooler months or if your skin tends to feel tight due to hormones, prescribed topical creams or medication. It takes a few seconds to sink in, but leaves a healthy radiance in its wake.
Type: Mixed chemical and mineral
SPF: 50
Texture: Cream
Key ingredients: Vitamin E, omega 6 and 9
Dr. Dennis Gross All-Physical Lightweight Wrinkle Defense SPF 30
Dr Gross formulated this SPF especially for those with combination to oily skin, as it promises to not clog pores or trigger breakouts. It does feel nourishing, which means you can easily forego a separate day cream. Transparent zinc oxide ensures a sheer finish with no grey cast, while a host of powerful antioxidants such as ferulic acid and sea buckthorn keep signs of sun damage at bay. It's fragrance-free, too.
Type: Mineral
SPF: 30
Texture: Cream
Key ingredients: Ferulic acid, sea buckthorn
Mecca Cosmetica To Save Face SPF50+ Matte Sun Serum
This Australian skincare brand launched to great fanfare in the UK as its sun range is pleasant to wear and works across all skin types, even sensitivity-prone ones. The latest launch is no exception. It has the same silky texture as the original Sun Serum, but offers multiple benefits for oily skin. Niacinamide and willow bark extracts keep excess sebum at bay, while the soft matte finish means no greasy foreheads.
Type: Mixed
SPF: 50
Texture: Milky serum
Key ingredients: Niacinamide, willow bark extract
La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 Aquagel SPF30
You can always count on La Roche-Posay to deliver skin-kind formulas that won't lead to irritation or breakouts. The Anthelios UVMune Oil Control SPF50 is a fan favourite for oily complexions but don't sleep on this SPF30 either. It has a refreshing gel texture that imparts a burst of hydration on oil-prone complexions without clogging the pores. The translucent finish is invisible on all skin tones. Expect a comfortable feel, all day long.
Type: Chemical
SPF: 30
Texture: Water-gel
Key ingredients: Hyaluronic acid, vitamin B5
Byoma Moisturising Gel-Cream SPF30
Byoma is easily one of the best homegrown skincare brands on the high street right now. The formulas are efficacious, with pleasant textures at accessible price points. This silky SPF is packed with lightweight hydrators such as hyaluronic acid and glycerin while a ceramide complex keeps delicate skin types in check.
Type: Chemical
SPF: 30
Texture: Gel-cream
Key ingredients: Hyaluronic acid, ceramides
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