Does The Vitamin C In Your Moisturiser Actually Work?
Next to retinol and hyaluronic acid, vitamin C is arguably one of the most popular ingredients in the skincare world. It's widely researched, and commonly found in various forms - be it in vitamin C serums, eye creams, SPF and of course, moisturiser.
But given the popularity of vitamin C in face creams, to what extent does it actually benefit your complexion? And who would benefit from it the most? We head straight to the experts to find out.
What is vitamin C?
A quick refresher: vitamin C is an antioxidant, which means when applied topically, it helps to shield your skin from environmental damage which can lead to dullness and pigmentation. It's a component that's naturally found in the body, but it depletes due to lifestyle and age.
How do vitamin C moisturisers work?
Essentially, vitamin C in moisturisers help to inhibit melanin production, at least to a certain extent (more on that later). 'This means it helps to reduce the appearance of dark spots, leading to a more even complexion,' says CeraVe consultant dermatologist Dr Derrick Phillips, who is a big fan of Cerave Skin Renewing Vitamin C Serum. 'Additionally, they neutralise free radicals which can accelerate skin ageing.'
What are the benefits of a vitamin C moisturiser?
If it's a gradual and subtle brightening effect you're after, or a quick pick-me-up for fatigued complexions, a vitamin C moisturiser is useful. 'It helps brighten the skin by reducing dark spots and uneven tone while boosting collagen production for a firmer, smoother appearance,' agrees Dr Phillips. 'It also provides antioxidant protection against environmental damage, such as pollution and UV-induced free radicals, promoting healthier and more radiant skin.'
That said, the vitamin C in your moisturiser might not be as potent as a vitamin C serum - but that's not necessarily a bad thing, suggests skin expert and facialist, Katharine Mackenzie Paterson. Since moisturisers generally tend to have lower levels of actives, she explains that they are 'good for beginners, young skins or skins that can’t tolerate high levels of actives but want to use them.'
Who should avoid vitamin C moisturisers?
Skin varies from person to person, so while vitamin C is a widely used and researched ingredient, there is still a chance you might be sensitive to it. Shares Dr Phillips: 'Vitamin C moisturisers can be beneficial for sensitive skin, but it’s important to choose a gentle, stabilised form of vitamin C to reduce the risk of irritation. Those with extremely sensitive or reactive skin, should avoid high concentrations and start with lower-strength formulations to test their skin's tolerance.'
When is the best time to use a vitamin C moisturiser?
Since vitamin C offers protection against environmental damage, its best to use it in the daytime as that's when you're likely to be out and about. But, that doesn't mean you can't use it in the evening. 'As vitamin C aids in skin repair and promotes collagen production overnight, using a vitamin C moisturiser in the evening can help support skin regeneration while you sleep,' says Dr Phillips.
How to find the right moisturiser for you
As with all skincare formulas, it's always best to look at the product as a whole rather than focus on one single ingredient. Is it non-comedogenic? Do you prefer a fragranced formula? How well do you tolerate essential oils?
There are also various forms of vitamin C used in skincare. 'Ascorbic acid (L-ascorbic acid), are the most potent and effective for brightening skin and stimulating collagen production,' says Dr Phillips, 'However, stabilised derivatives such as ascorbyl glucoside, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate are also effective, offering gentler, less irritating options for sensitive skin.'
Can you 'stack' your vitamin C products?
Layering your vitamin C serum underneath your vitamin C moisturiser doesn't hurt, but it won't technically deliver results much quicker, as there's a limit to how much vitamin C your skin can absorb. If stubborn pigmentation is a bugbear, powerful ingredients such as kojic acid, niacinamide, and azelaic acid are worth adding into your routine, too.
How we test
ELLE's curated list features vitamin C moisturisers for varying skin needs, and we've used them to the very last drop on different complexion types. It also considers the potency of the vitamin C, other ingredients incorporated alongside it and how pleasant it is to use.
The best vitamin C moisturisers to try
Daily Radiance Vitamin C Two-in-One Moisturiser
This Medik8 cream is a favourite of facialist Katharine Mackenzie Paterson. Despite its gentle formula, regular use of Daily Radiance will protect your skin from environmental damage, thus keeping fine lines and pigmentation at bay. It contains SPF30 too, making it a one and done product for all skin types. It's unfragranced, but it does contain essential oils, so do bear that in mind if you're prone to sensitivity.
C5 Super Boost Moisturiser
If your skin loves a vitamin C serum and you simply want a moisturiser that also contains the ingredient, give this one a go. The vitamin C here is potent, so expect to see significantly brighter skin over time. Lipids work hard to keep the skin barrier healthy, while peptides help to tackle fine lines for an overall softer, smoother results.
Vitamin C Lactic Dewy Deep Cream
The buttery texture of this rich cream will please the thirstiest complexions and those with mature, dry skin. Lactic acid works in tandem with vitamin C to slough away dullness and take care of fine lines while nourishing squalane floods the skin with moisture. It does wonders for redness too, as it contains ceramides and soothing oils. The plush texture leaves skin significantly more radiant than when you found it.
Ginzing Energizing Gel Cream
For the late night owls out there, nothing quite wakes up the skin (and the senses) like Origins' Ginzing line. This refreshing lightweight gel-cream not only comes with glow-giving vitamin C, it's also laced with ginseng to help with inflammation, caffeine to brighten and niacinamide to encourage hydration without clogging pores. The citrusy scent is much-needed on sleepy mornings, too.
Editor's tip: I keep the SPF30 version in my gym bag at all times, as it does the job of delivering sun protection and moisture in one handy tube.
Major Fade Active Seal Moisturizer
This brand is new to the UK but if you're on social media, chances are, you're familiar with Dr Shereene Idriss. The board certified US dermatologist is a must-follow for helpful, practical and science-backed advice delivered with plenty of wit.
Her skincare line focuses on tackling dark spots and hyperpigmentation using proven ingredients such as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (an oil-soluble form of vitamin C) to prevent environmental damage, peptides to plump up fine lines and ceramides to strengthen the skin barrier. The clinical testing speak for themselves, with 97% of users reporting a more even tone.
Night Hack
While most skincare brands claim to work for all skin tones, very few actually consider melanin-rich complexions during their research, development and testing stages. 4.5.6 Skin disrupts the industry by spotlighting the needs of all skin tones - especially darker ones - every step of the way.
As richer skin tones often have denser stratum corneum layers, Night Hack is designed to penetrate deep in order to repair damage that manifests as hyperpigmentation. This clever formula uses bakuchiol, vitamin C, and vitamin E to address dullness and even out the skin tone, while tranexamic acid acts as a powerful anti-inflammatory that stops hyperpigmentation in its tracks.
Vitamin C Brightening Day Cream
Garnier's really stepped up its skincare offerings of late (and they continue to perform exceptionally well in the SPF category). This plush moisturiser delivery hydration and gently restores glow to tired complexions. It smells pleasant, sinks in quickly, and leaves skin feeling comforted.
C-2 Believe Vitamin C Brightening Face Moisturizer
The sensitive skin experts at Pai have formulated this lightweight cream especially for fragile complexions. It uses a form of oil-soluble, stabilised vitamin C, encapsulated in fatty acids to deliver radiant results without irritating the complexion. There's also prebiotic in here to take care of the skin's microbiome.
Vitamin C Gel Cream
For the eco-warriors among us, Ren delivers efficacious formulas in easily recyclable packaging. This refreshing gel-cream is lightweight enough for combination skin types, while imbuing skin with enough moisture, especially in the cooler months. It's packed with stabilised vitamin C complex to brighten pigmentation and contains glycogen (a naturally occurring component in skin) to encourage lasting hydration.
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