Every Blancpain x Swatch Watch, Ranked
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Despite the MoonSwatch's stratospheric success, the Blancpain x Swatch line came like a bolt from the blue. The big blue, that is, as the collaboration centres on bioceramic remakes of the first modern dive watch, The Fifty Fathoms.
While revered by horological enthusiasts, Blancpain has remained a niche brand, especially compared to its Swatch Group stablemates. The unexpected alliance, therefore, is a shrewd move as such high-low projects are designed to introduce new consumers to a brand and provide them with an accessible entry point. In addition to refreshing the brand's image, that is.
For the design teams it was a particularly exciting voyage as the goal was to make an affordable (£350!) yet luxurious mechanical watch that not only paid homage to the Fifty Fathoms' legacy but also maintained its crucial functionality, including its impressive water resistance of 91 meters (or rather, fifty fathoms).
The final products deliver on all fronts.
We've plunged into its depths of the collection – now eight colourways deep (seven inspired by nudibranchs [sea slugs], one an ode to... our moon?) – and emerged with a ranking of worst to best.
Though, we must say, we'd quite happily take any for a dive.
Fifty Fathoms: Ocean of Storms
With the Ocean of Storms, Blancpain and Swatch flew too close to the sun. Or rather, the MoonSwatch as the the black timepiece cites a lunar crater as its influence, wrongly assuming that the Omega collab's success is reliant on the cosmos. (The Swatch Group, take heed: we wear our plastic planet-themed watches because they're novel, unpretentious and whimsical.)
Though, for the all-black-everything crowd, this Fifty Fathom is a fine choice of wristwear. It's just a shame it shoots for the stars rather than the darkest depths of the ocean.
Original release date: 11 January 2024
Fifty Fathoms: Atlantic Ocean
Atlantic Ocean – part of the original quintet based on the world's five oceans – promises a rich navy hue. Though, IRL (we've seen it up close!), the colour isn't as rich as the promotional photography lets on: it's truly more redolent of Canary Wharf – as in the go-to blue of the white collar – than seafaring adventures. And while you could argue the neutral tone of the strap (made, like the rest, from recycled fishing nets), the case and the bezel improves its versatility, the dulness of the dial is difficult to overlook.
Original release date: 9 September 2023
Fifty Fathoms: Pacific Ocean
Resembling the Liquorice Allsorts-like Chromodoris Kuiteri nudibranch, which inhabits the eastern coral reefs, the Pacific Ocean watch is white, black, and yellow. The inky bezel delivers a classic diving watch aesthetic, peculiarly complemented by a Hufflepuff-coded collegiate-striped strap. Though, like the Atlantic iteration, it's let down by a gloomy gradient dial that unintentionally resembles an artefact discovered 20,000 leagues under the sea.
Original release date: 9 September 2023
Fifty Fathoms: Blue Lagoon
In late 2024, Blancpain and Swatch made up for Atlantic Ocean with the launch of a turquoise timepiece that takes its rich tone from the Tambja Mullineri sea slug, as well as its namesake: the blue lagoon (you'll find a dual homage to its references on the rear). Our only quibble? That brightly coloured accessory, while appealing, can appear a little playful – kiddie, even – on the wrong wrist.
Original release date: 14 December 2024
Fifty Fathoms: Indian Ocean
The Indian Ocean offering distinguishes itself with a high-end aesthetic. The colour scheme, evocative of Gucci and Bottega Veneta, combined with the nicely done gradient on the dial, provides an elevated feel.
This Blancpain x Swatch model is, unsurprisingly, the one we've spotted most often in the wild, usually paired with classic prep pieces.
Original release date: 9 September 2023
Fifty Fathoms: Arctic Ocean
The Arctic Ocean Fifty Fathoms is a curious watch, featuring a radiation symbol on its dial alongside the phrase “NO RADIATIONS.” Horology enthusiasts will recognise this mark from Blancpain's sixties (and sixties-inspired) timepieces, advertising the absence of radium, a common material used mid-century for luminous hands and markers. (As with the entire collection, non-radioactive, photoluminescent Super-LumiNova® provides the luminosity here.)
The vibrant orange accents on the strap and dial—a warm paprika tone—offer a surprising and intriguing counterpoint to the imagined palette of the Arctic Ocean.
Original release date: 9 September 2023
Fifty Fathoms: Antarctic Ocean
For the traditional Blancpain clientele, the Antarctic Ocean Fifty Fathoms is the clear choice. It's discreet and sophisticated owing to its icy hues and uniquely complete with a functional water contact indicator at six o'clock that will flag if moisture ever enters the case.
Sure, the feature, born for military necessity, may be superfluous for us civilians, but it sure is something to show off. And, correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't that the whole allure of watch collecting?
Original release date: 9 September 2023
Fifty Fathoms: Pink Ocean
Swatch's collaboration with Blancpain on a bright pink bioceramic watch is an inspired move, especially given the current resurgence of Y2K aesthetics, the recent return of the colour to the catwalk, and the revived interest in just-for-fun wristwear (see: the Kith x Tag Heuer F1 line of 2024).
The pink lake image printed on the movements, visible through the alliance's signature exhibition caseback, is a particular highlight, as is the white-to-pink gradient dial, which ensures this striking watch doesn't stray too far into toy territory, a pitfall the Blue Lagoon timepiece unintentionally drifted into.
In short: Pink Ocean is the trophy catch, and you can reel yours in online or in select Swatch stores.
Original release date: 23 January 2025
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