Everything You Need to Know About Irish Curls—AKA Half Straight, Half Curly Hair

No two heads of curls are exactly alike. While some are more coily and springy, others are a soft wave, and, of course, there's everything in between. Then, there are hair textures that are almost a 50/50 mix of curls amongst straight hair, known as Irish curls. While Irish curls are making their rounds on TikTok, putting the spotlight on this hard-to-pin hair type, the idea of multiple curl patterns and textures comprising a whole head of hair isn't anything new.

To explore Irish curls more deeply, we consulted three hair pros to gain insights on the best cuts for enhancing them and the perfect styling tips to ensure that every day is a great hair day.

Meet Our Expert

• Eddie Parra is a senior stylist at BENJAMIN Salon in New York City

• Latoya Moore is a hair artist and DevaCurl textures specialist

• Hussein Sal is a hairstylist and colorist at Athena Salon in West Palm Beach

What are Irish Curls?

Irish curls are identified as a unique hair texture with an inconsistent pattern. “Typically, the top layer of the hair is straight, and the underneath layers are either wavy or curly, unlike uniform curl patterns that are more consistent throughout the head,” Moore says. With Irish curls, the curls are somewhat hidden. “There are also irregular patterns and noticeable differences in the hair texture. Also, the crown is straighter, and then there is a gradual increase in volume.” While you don’t have to be Irish to have hair with this type of curl pattern, Moore shares that if there is a distinct difference in the texture throughout the various layers of hair, chances are you have Irish curls.

The reasons for Irish curls vary. Sal says while Irish curls form mainly due to genetics, they can also develop from both bleach and heat damage, sometimes turning a head of curls or straight strands into more of a half-and-half situation. “Naturally curly hair can easily become damaged due to aggressive or overuse of hair styling products and heat-based tools, leading to dryness, frizz, split ends, and breakage,” he adds.

How to Care for Irish Curls

Irish curls can be tricky to care for properly since they are a mix of straight and curly or wavy hair, each requiring different maintenance. "Matching the textures is always a challenge," Parra says. "Whether you want the hair to be all straight or all curly, it is important to figure out a way to blend the two." The curly part of the hair requires moisture to keep the curls well-defined and frizz-free, while the straighter parts usually need more volume.

An appropriate shampoo and conditioner routine is essential when caring for Irish curls, so versatile yet gentle, sulfate-free shampoos that cleanse the hair while adding light hydration and conditioners that hydrate without greasiness are best. "I always recommend that people with this hair type use moisturizing shampoos and limit washing to about two times per week to ensure that the strands stay hydrated," Moore says. "If the hair gets dirty throughout the week, apply a leave-in conditioner to help maintain moisture between washes."

To prevent the hair from becoming weighed down, only apply conditioner from the mid-shaft of the hair to the ends, avoiding the roots so that the straighter pieces of hair don't fall flat. From there, use hair-care products to address other needs, like protecting your color or clarifying the scalp.

It is also worth the time and investment to seek a stylist who specializes in cutting this type of hair, or at least curly textures. Parra says finding the right stylist is crucial for anyone with a specific curl pattern, like Irish curls. "Always do your due diligence and find the best stylist who understands your needs and can guide you in the right direction."

Tips and Tricks for Styling Irish Curls

The right haircut makes all the difference in styling Irish curls. Depending on the cut, Irish curls can become more or less visible depending on what you want. Sal says that layered haircuts work well for Irish curls. “They allow the curlier sections to come through and be more noticeable, giving more shape to the hair.” A shag cut will create the illusion of movement throughout the entire head, Parra says. Just make sure to steer clear of a blunt or heavily long-layered haircut, which can make the hair look too straight and cause too much distinction between the different textures in the hair.

If you choose to embrace your curls, Parra recommends a soft layered haircut, “which helps blend the movement throughout your hair. The layers will vary and will depend on the hair’s density. The heavier the hair is, the softer the layers should be, so they do not separate into chunks.” For a sleeker, straighter style, he recommends a custom keratin treatment to help blend the curlier parts of the hair with the rest.

When styling curls, air-drying the hair is always the healthiest option, especially “if you have the time to let your hair dry naturally,” Sal shares. During the winter, Parra recommends his clients shampoo their hair at night and wear a silk bonnet cap to sleep, which helps the curls form while keeping the hair frizz-free.

Curl-activating styling products like lightweight gels, mousses, and even mineral sprays are musts to create movement and give the curls hold without weighing down the straighter pieces. Moore stresses the importance of using the right hair products to create a defined look. “I like to use curl cream and mousse on wet hair and evenly distribute the products throughout. Next, flip the head forward while scrunching upwards to help enhance curl definition. Then, use a microfiber towel or plopping method after applying the product.”

“Moisturizing, leave-in products are also very important for curly hair,” Sal says. “They help keep the curls smooth and defined while preventing frizz.” Just steer clear of anything too heavy or loaded with too many oils, which can weigh down the hair and give the roots a greasy look.

Parra says that once the hair is prepped correctly with the right products, scrunching it all around gives more of a defined look to waves and curls. “You can either scrunch the hair and let it air dry or use a blow dryer with a diffuser attachment on low heat to help define the curl pattern. I always suggest diffusing curls because it helps activate them when you flip your head upside down,” Parra says. “If that doesn’t get you far, you can wrap the straighter hair pieces around a curling iron to blend it with the rest of your hair.” Or try twisting small sections of the top pieces around your finger to encourage more of a wave throughout the hair. Coercing the top straight pieces to take on more of a wave can create a more uniform hairstyle.

Read the original article on InStyle