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Fforme Is Proof Emerging Talent Still Rules New York Fashion Week

Andrea Bossi

February 10, 2024 at 11:23 p.m.·3 min read

In its second-ever runway show, emerging label Fforme — from The Row alum Paul Helbers — proves that there's still up-and-comers to root for at New York Fashion Week, with an ambitious and impactful Fall 2024 collection that explores the tension between structure and fluidity.

Founder and Creative Director Helbers' latest hinges on juxtaposition: between carefully-hung silk jersey blouses and boxy bouclé jackets, between graceful drapes and sharp pleats, between asymmetric tunics and straight waistbands. He sits with two (seeming) opposites, and pulls at each of their strengths to create something new and desirable.

"The collections are always centered on the women who wear them," he said backstage. "The most important thing about a dress is the woman who wears it. And we never let that get out of sight."

The main way Helbers accomplishes this is by designing his clothes on the body, versus commonly used software. "It's already warm and human," he explained. "It's a different perspective of making clothes. It's about movement, like dance — [movement] is how you express, and I think expression is a very soulful thing."

The Dutch designer — who, in addition to helping launch menswear at The Row, worked for Maison Martin Margiela and at Louis Vuitton alongside Marc Jacobs — works with restraint when it comes to color, focusing on a tight palette of cream, indigo, red, black, taupe and olive. Same goes for textiles: The Fall 2024 collection utilizes poplin, boiled wool, recycled nylon and hammered lamé.

On the runway, models wearing scrunchy ballet flats took elegant strides as psychedelic folk artist Anastasia Cooper sang. Knit beanies so snug they looked like swim caps were the star accessory. Keep scrolling to see every look from Fforme Fall 2024.

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fforme Fall 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

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