Six takeaways from Milan Fashion Week
This was a Milan Fashion Week that perfectly summed up the industry’s current state of chaos. Two big brands without creative directors – Gucci and Fendi, more on which later – and another, Jil Sander, who lost theirs immediately after their presentation. The front rows were full of gossip, rumour and speculation – so much change is destabilising for everyone. Presumably fashion’s game of musical chairs will conclude once Paris closes in a little over a week’s time. In the meantime, the show must go on and so it did – with six days of standout collections, anniversary celebrations and mostly sunny weather.
1) Fur is back!
But not real fur, obviously. Instead, designers from Dolce & Gabbana to Prada and Fendi offered up shaggy, throw-on-over-anything shearlings. The standout at Prada was a brown chubby jacket worn only with stilettos (this is not a real-life styling tip, take note) while Dolce lined oversize model-off-duty army green parkas with sheepskin and paired them with cargos and camisoles (do try this one at home). Fendi, celebrating its 100th anniversary with a knock-em-out-of-the-park blockbuster co-ed show designed by Silvia Fendi herself, offered up fabulous furry coats which evoked old school Milanese glamour but would be the last word in modernity paired with jeans. If you buy one thing for winter, it looks like it should be a shearling: start saving now.
2) Ankle socks with everything
Or maybe any socks would do it. The quickest and cheapest style trick from Milan was the pairing of ankle socks with everything, including but not limited to strappy sandals, loafers and boots. The street style set are already experimenting with sheer knee-high tights. It feels a little subversive, like the bad girl at school – though the ever-chic Mrs Prada is also big on this look, particularly worn with a midi skirt. Incidentally, Prada brought back the revamped stiletto pump for AW25 – it’s time to dig out those spindly heeled court shoes.
3) Pragmatism and glamour
The key takeaway from a week in Milan was the number of collections which were fabulously shoppable. Surprisingly, this is not always a given. But there was so much on offer, from a Dolce Vita glamour at Fendi with especially great bags (plus SJP clutching a beaded Baguette on the front row) to high-waisted wide trousers and sweeping tweed coats at a stellar Max Mara to delicious red leather at Tod’s, whose new-ish designer Matteo Tamburino is delivering a confident, quirky take on the brand’s signature chic. A few of the season’s emerging trends appeared here: khaki and forest green, lots of leather, capes, red. With casual insouciance, the Gommino shoe was paired with a leather evening dress for the finale.
4) Modern romance
The debut of the week was at Alberta Ferretti, where long-time Philosophy designer Lorenzo Serafini took over as creative director of the main line from the brand’s founder. Showing in the company HQ, a gilded salon-style affair, he offered up delicious bias-cut silk slips under long coats, all worn with flat mules. Sympathetic to the spirit of Ferretti but with a gently modernising touch, it was a perfect performance.
5) Retro glamour at Gucci
The shock departure of Sabato De Sarno just a couple of weeks ago meant that the Gucci collection was credited to the studio team. But there was nothing apologetic or quiet about this show. Jessica Chastain and Daisy Edgar-Jones sat front row, the live soundtrack was supplied by an Oscar-winning composer and the venue itself was a huge space dressed in a new colour to replace Sarno’s Ancora Rosso – a vivid green, Ancora Verde. The clothes themselves channelled a retro glamour, slightly kooky but wholeheartedly fabulous: lace camisoles, leather skirts, silky dresses and shearling coats with pops of bold, bright colour. The announcement of a new creative director is expected imminently. But this was good to be going on with.
6) The ever timeless Armani
The week closed on Sunday morning with the Giorgio Armani show – could there be anyone more fitting to put a full stop on MFW? In a space filled with curved banquette seating and soft lighting (welcome at this stage of fashion month), the 90-year-old presented a collection that was just gorgeous. Yes, there was shearling, but Mr Armani doesn’t do trends like other designers – his brand celebrates its 50th anniversary this year and he remains the constant in an industry in flux. We could all be more Armani.
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