I Got a Salmon Sperm Facial—And I’d Do It Again

Taryn Brooke
·8 min read

Getty Images / Courtesy of subject

Kim Kardashian put salmon sperm on her face, so I put salmon sperm on my face. Granted, she actually had salmon sperm injected into her face, whereas I had mine applied topically during a microneedling session because injecting into the skin is not FDA-approved. (Kardashian may have gotten her treatment outside of the US.) But even before the Kardashian effect kicked in, salmon sperm facials were rising in popularity—and after getting one myself, I can attest that they’re not as gross or strange as you might think.

The treatment originated in South Korea, a country known for being lightyears ahead of the rest of the world when it comes to skin care—and the aesthetic use of salmon sperm is case in point. Salmon sperm facials are known to boost hydration, improve skin elasticity, and give the complexion an overall smoother and more youthful appearance, says Dendy Engelman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.

But if you’ve been hanging around Allure for a while, you know a lot of other ingredients can also claim as much. What’s so special about salmon sperm? Salmon sperm is a source of polydeoxyribonucleotides (PDRN), which is a substance known for its regenerative and healing properties, says Dr. Engelman.

For that reason, a salmon sperm facial doesn’t just consist of slapping on unfiltered semen and calling it a day—the treatment uses the PDRN that’s extracted from the sperm. When the sperm is harvested and prepared for human use, the process “removes anything that can cause an immune reaction,” says Jennifer Levine, MD, a board-certified plastic surgeon based in New York City.

It’s worth mentioning that little is known to the public about how exactly the sperm is harvested, and if ethical methods are used when doing so. Earlier this year, PETA posted a plea urging people to “keep the salmon in the sea & your beauty routines cruelty-free.” If and when injectable salmon sperm is approved by the FDA (more on that in a minute), we may learn more about these methods.

As an injectable, PDRN is considered a biostimulator, meaning it promotes tissue regeneration and enhances collagen production. “PDRN triggers the skin’s natural repair mechanisms, leading to improved elasticity, hydration, and overall improvement in texture,” says Dr. Engelman.

So profound are the effects of PDRN that the injectable version is being used by practitioners in other parts of the world as a “filler alternative,” says Daniel Belkin, MD, a double board-certified dermatologist and dermatologic surgeon in New York City who does not use PDRN in his practice. “Several of the European and Asian doctors that I spoke with said that they don’t use filler anymore, they use polynucleotides,” he says. (PDRN is a type of polynucleotide.) “Studies have compared hyaluronic acid filler under the eyes with polynucleotides, and found that they performed very similarly, except there was some more skin texture improvement with polynucleotides.”

Though not as effective when applied topically, you can still get the benefits of PDRN when combining it with treatments such as microneedling, which "fools the skin into believing that there was a wound so that it regenerates its structural proteins,” says Dr. Belkin. If you’re unfamiliar with microneedling or need a quick refresher, it’s kind of what it sounds like. The treatment involves a device that looks like a large pen dotted with tiny needles that range in depth from 0.25mm to 2.5mm (the length your provider uses typically depends on the area of the face being treated) and create micro-channels in the skin. “Microneedling salmon sperm extract can enhance its penetration and regenerative effects by boosting collagen and skin repair,” says Dr. Engelman.

This also provides a loophole for us Americans: When it’s not being injected, salmon sperm—and the PDRN it contains—falls under the category of skin care, which does not require FDA approval. So, in the name of beauty journalism, I decided to try it.

What it’s like to get a salmon sperm facial

I visited Nicole Frontera Beauty, a medspa in Queens, New York for my salmon sperm facial. (As a reminder, Allure recommends seeing a board-certified dermatologist for treatments that go past the skin barrier; microneedling does not.) For my treatment, a medical aesthetician used NucleoSkin, which offers salmon sperm serum to professionals. (The treatment is also available under numerous other brand names including Rejuran and Nucleofill.)

As is typically the case for microneedling treatments, step one was having numbing cream applied on my face, which was left on for about 15 minutes. Afterwards, the numbing cream was removed and my face was cleaned with alcohol to ensure a sterile environment for microneedling.

Working in sections and starting with my cheeks, the medical aesthetician began stamping the microneedling device (instead of rotating it in small circular motions, as is typical) into my skin to allow for even deeper penetration. After completing my right cheek, she applied the salmon sperm serum, which was housed in a syringe and had a gel-like consistency. After that, she stamped into my skin once again. She continued with these same steps on my left cheek, chin, and forehead. After she finished microneedling the serum into my entire face, she then applied another layer to seal the deal, which I was instructed to leave on my face for at least four hours post-treatment. All in all, approximately three cubic centimeters of salmon sperm serum were used on my face.

What is post-care like for a salmon sperm facial?

Normally, immediately after a microneedling session, my skin tends to look a little bloodied and raw; however, this time around, my face was not nearly as irritated. Could it be the salmon sperm serum? Possibly—research has shown the PDRN in salmon sperm has anti-inflammatory properties and helps with wound healing. About two hours after the treatment, my skin did become a little red, but it dissipated about an hour after that. (It’s common to notice delayed irritation following microneedling, says Dr. Levine.)

That evening, I washed my face with a gentle cleanser and applied the most ceramide-packed moisturizer I own to prevent any further irritation before calling it a night. The following day, I noticed my skin looked a lot smoother, more even-toned, and bouncy than it had the day before. I avoided any actives, such as retinol and AHAs, for the next three days to prevent any irritation.

How much does a salmon sperm facial cost?

Depending upon geographic location, practice, and modality (microneedling or laser) used, the cost of a salmon sperm facial can range from $500 to $800 per treatment. (Mine was performed gratis with the understanding I’d be writing about my experience.)

Dr. Levine recommends getting three to four treatments in total, spaced apart by about a month, to experience the full effect of the treatment.

What are the side effects of the salmon sperm facial?

Although some studies have found that PDRN can be effective in wound healing and cell regeneration, these salmon sperm serums are not approved by the FDA to be injected intradermally—which means safety still remains a concern. Dr. Levine says that an allergic reaction or inflammation could be a serious side effect to the treatment. “This area of regenerative medicine is rapidly expanding and it is an area of interest. However, there is very little guidance or control of the quality of the product,” she says. “While a good idea in theory, in practice, there is little data to ensure the safety and efficacy of these products.” So, as ever, buyer beware.

My salmon sperm facial results

In the week since my treatment, my skin has continued to look smooth, hydrated, and plump. My skin has a noticeable glow about it, if I do say so myself. I would even go so far as to say that the facial has enhanced the results of the skin-care products I use daily; they go on much smoother and absorb into my skin better. I’m extremely happy with my results so far.

That all being said, I’ve gotten similar or better results from a HydraFacial as well as from chemical peels which, after healing, have left me with super-dewy “glass skin.” I’ve also had microneedling with PRP (platelet-rich plasma), which produced a similar effect as combining microneedling with salmon sperm serum. Recently, I tried Skinvive, an FDA-approved injectable skinbooster for the cheeks—and probably the most comparable to injectable salmon sperm serum—and noticed a definitive plumping effect.

Of course, it’s not lost on me that I didn’t do the full recommended course of salmon sperm facial treatments—but as a one-off, I feel that there are comparable if not better options on the market. As someone who delights in trying new and innovative treatments, though, I’m glad I did it. In fact, I might even try the injectable version next time I’m traveling outside the US.

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Originally Appeared on Allure

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