Your guide to Carvalhal, Portugal: the sleepy, chic village in the Sussexes' favourite area
You’ve heard plenty of Comporta — dubbed Portugal’s answer to the Hamptons — but just beyond the fringe of town, there’s a buzz about Carvalhal that’s only going to grow louder. Why? Because unlike its flash sister, there’s a quiet charm about it thanks to its position between some of Setubal’s most pristine beaches and proximity to the lesser known forest areas.
Then there’s the fact that it might be about to be put on the map by Prince Harry and Meghan Markle, as the pair are said to have purchased a property in a ‘sleepy village’ in Portugal. Harry’s cousin, Princess Eugenie, and her husband, Jack Brooksbank already own in the area, with a home in the CostaTerra Golf and Ocean Club which is in Melides, south of Lisbon and just 20 minutes from Carvalhal.
Here’s how to do the area in a weekend.
Where to stay
Twenty years ago, Brejos de Carregueira was virtually unrecognisable. Locals described it as having the spirit of St Tropez (which explains why it was a magnet for soigne French families and Casiraghi matriarchs). Small New England style cabanas were the norm, with no heating, running water and sand carpeting the living rooms.
Not anymore. Thanks to the boom in development in Comporta and beyond, Brejos now boasts some of the finest private villas that riff on the barefoot luxury style, but thankfully with the bells and whistles a modern family need. We stayed at Casa Salvagem- a clever property hosted by AirBnb which was perfect for two families sharing thanks to its symmetrical layout which allowed each of us to have our own wing.
Interiors are bohemian in spirit – think lots of straw lamps and mats, with eclectic ceramics sprinkled throughout – but what we loved most was the setting. Surrounded by the Brejos pine forests, we were far enough from the coast to avoid any tourist traffic, and at a good distance from Setubal’s rice fields with their infamous mosquitoes. Our villa host, Barbarine Agier, also provides all guests with an exhaustive list of local places to eat, drink and shop – a godsend for those with only a weekend to spare exploring.
Casa Salvagem uses dynamic pricing and can be booked via AirBnb. October prices start from £912 per night, with a seven-night minimum booking policy; find out more here.
Where to eat
When the hotel Sublime Comporta opened six years ago, it was a runaway success. So it makes sense that the hospitality group behind it would have another hit on their hands when they opened JnC deli in Carvalhal. Despite the name, it’s not a deli as you’d know it: think instead, bold interiors studded with Alentejo ceramics, impeccable service, and bijou bar at the heart of it all. Opt for the house prawn and monkfish rice – spenny but worth it.
Sal is a local institution with its catch-of-the-day style menu and sweeping coastal views of Carvalhal beach. But in Carvalhal main town, its sister Sal Burger is just as delicious, though the style here is far more rustic. The burgers are superlative, served grab-and-go style, as are the cocktails – though service is focussed on the evenings from 6pm onwards. A great spot if you’re travelling with kids and can’t be bothered with the faff of fine dining.
No seaside holiday is quite complete without ice-cream for pudding. Gulato – founded by two ex-Londoners – started as a small pop van in Comporta main town but has found a permanent home slightly further afield near Possanco. It’s a bit of a schlep but worth it when you pull up to their gelato ‘lab’, which looks like something straight out of a Wes Anderson movie. Flavours run the gamut from traditional (salted caramel) to experimental (Aperol spritz) though the friendly counter staff are more than happy to let you try before you buy.
Where to shop
The name might be questionable, but if you’re looking for your Gucci fix head to the Fashion Clinic Comporta. The owners have curated a lifestyle boutique that’s peak aspirational living. Pieces from local craftspeople are cleverly mixed in with luxury brands such as Bode, Pucci and Tom Ford (top marks if you can spot pieces from Londoner Lucinda Chambers’ brand Colville in there too). If you’ve forgotten to pack your swimming cosy, there’s also a Fashion Clinic pop-up on Pego beach stocked with pieces from the crinkle queen Hunza G.
We stumbled upon The Life Juice by accident as it’s cleverly tucked behind Mesa, one of Comporta’s buzzier restaurants. Their dedication to the art of hosting shows, with a smart edit of Portuguese homeware purveyors and lifestyle brands. Vintage glass vases jostle with surreal ceramics on the shelves (roosters are a running theme), making your Bordallo Pinheiro plate collection back home feel a little unadventurous.
For upscale supermarket shopping (don’t worry, there’s a Lidl and Aldi near town too) look to Merceria Gomes. It’s been open for over a century and has been dubbed a Little Harrods thanks to its gourmet goods sourced from around the world. Reader: you can do some serious damage here so be sure not to visit when hungry, ideally by visiting Gomes Padaria around the back – a charming bakery from the same team – for your Pastel del Nata fix.
Where to relax
Your job in Comporta? It’s just beach. Thankfully you’re blessed with over 60km of coastline abutting the Atlantic Ocean. The swell might be more intense than expected (it explains why so many surfers come here to catch a break) and the water a little cooler, but you acclimatise quickly. Comporta beach, though charming, usually swells with tourists in the summer and parking can be a nightmare, so opt for Carvalhal or Pego beach instead (at the latter you might even be lucky enough to spot a pod of dolphins at sunset).
For those looking to commune more closely with nature, or follow the trail of extremely toned and beautiful women clad in the latest Alo collection, there are also outdoor yoga classes available in a beautiful forest shala behind Carvalhal’s answer to Soho House – The Atlantic Club. Run by Carolina of Studio Salut (@studio_salut), you can choose from daily vinyasa flow, restorative or kids classes. Pre-booking is essential, via Whatsapp or Instagram.
