Helmut Lang is embracing its bibliophilic side with a text-heavy Spring/Summer 2024 collection as creative director Peter Do makes his introduction as its new head, paying homage to his own connection with New York.
Skylight at Essex Crossing.
While the collection was largely filled with neutral tones of white, black and the occasional sage tone, splashes of cab city yellow, mustard and fuchsia enlivened the assortment of garments. Graphic T-shirts were decorated with excerpts from the poem that was played throughout the show, infusing the presentation with moments of philosophic pondering.
Lightweight cotton and jersey material join hardened, acid-washed denim and leather, nodding to New York's own melange of textiles.
The show's auditory accompaniment recreated the city's orchestra of sounds, capturing a the noises of subway door closing and a street performer, alongside an emotional poem. A beat drop jolted attendees awake until it eventually moved to an instrumental beat with models mimicking passerbys and walking in different directions.
Helmut Lang's SS24 collection elevated a typical utilitarian wardrobe, matching sharp lines and clean shapes with uber-saturated colors, evocative prints and sculptural silhouettes, evoking the spirit of a city go-er who still wants to stand out amongst the noise.