Henna Saved My Strands After I Fried Them With Bleach

Chloé Toscano
·9 min read

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Many people hear the word “henna” and automatically think of tattoos. It’s almost always the association my friends make when I say I use it on my hair—and I don’t blame them. It’s not like henna hair treatments are promoted and available on beach boardwalks and in amusement parks.

My first experience with using henna on my hair was in high school. I was itching for a change from my very dark, nearly black natural hair color. But before I could reach for bleach and pink dye (I wanted pink hair like Lady Gaga), my mom suggested I try henna, which she swore would be gentler on my strands. It didn’t get my hair to that bubblegum shade, but it did give it a red tint—which looked especially bright in the sun—a glossy finish, and unmatched softness. (Henna can act as a natural conditioner, as well.) I loved the look and decided to keep it, touching it up with more henna month after month.

A few years later, I felt that itch to change my hair again. Ultimately, I ended up bleaching my hair and—as my mom predicted—it left my strands looking dry, brittle, and stripped. I regretted it, so when my bleached look had grown out, I went on a mission to restore my hair’s resilience, which led me back to henna.

I got myself a tub of colorless henna from Rainbow Research and the results were better than I’d anticipated. Since then my hair has never felt stronger, my scalp seems less irritated, and I haven’t spotted a single flake of dandruff.

Chloe Toscano a week after using henna on her hair
Chloe Toscano a week after using henna on her hair

Henna has been a great option for me at every stage of my hair journey, but it has its pros and cons. To explore it further, we turn to the experts.

Meet the experts:

In this story:

First, what is henna and how is it culturally significant?

Henna comes from the dried and ground leaves of the lawsonia inermis plant. “It's been used for centuries in various cultures—particularly in India, the Middle East, and North Africa—for its staining properties, cosmetic, and medicinal purposes,” says Krupa Koestline, cosmetic chemist and founder of KKT Labs.

Henna holds great cultural significance in India, where it is used in festivals and ceremonies like weddings. “Brides are adorned with intricate designs on their hands and feet, symbolizing joy, beauty, and a blessing for the marriage,” Koestline explains. “For us, it’s not just a beauty product; it’s a connection to tradition, celebration, and even family bonding, as applying henna is often a communal activity.”

What are the benefits of using henna on your hair?

According to our experts, henna offers a host of benefits. If you’re looking for a “cleaner” beauty routine, you’ll be happy to know henna is minimally processed and free of harsh, synthetic chemicals and artificial dyes, says Koestline. (How clean your henna is, of course, is determined by the brand you use.)

Henna can deposit long-lasting color to your hair and improve the overall look and feel of your strands. Says New York-based dermatologist Marisa Garshick, MD, “It’s known to have conditioning properties that can make the hair softer, shinier, and more manageable.” You may have heard that henna can also promote hair growth, but, as the known science stands, there isn't much evidence to back that up.

When it comes to using henna on the rest of your body, Koestline says, it can help soothe rashes, eczema, and insect bites. This is due to henna’s anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties, Dr. Garshick explains, adding that it’s still important to do a patch test before use as henna can cause allergic reactions. “The risk increases if the henna contains additives, which is the case with black henna used to darken color,” she says. “This can cause allergic contact dermatitis, irritant contact dermatitis, increased sensitivity, or even more severe reactions like blistering.”

What are the risks of using henna hair color?

As mentioned in the previous section, it’s important to always do a patch test before using henna due to the risk of an allergic reaction, especially if using black henna. Henna can also have unpredictable results when used on top of bleached hair. “Bleached hair absorbs henna differently, resulting in unexpected hues and uneven coloring,” says Abby Haliti, a colorist and founder of New York City-based A.H. ColorStudio. She adds that layering henna over previously dyed hair can also lead to patches in color.

But this doesn’t mean you need to have completely virgin hair to use henna. Haliti recommends starting with a strand test and gradually transitioning to henna hair color. “This process involves allowing the chemical dye to fade or grow out before starting henna applications to avoid unexpected interactions or color results,” she says. “Start with root touch-ups or small sections of henna before fully committing to see how your hair reacts, and perform strand tests regularly as your hair transitions to ensure the results are what you want.”

Adds Emaly Baum, a colorist and owner of Beauty Supply Salon in New York City, you should make sure to consider your long-term color goals as the pigment from henna isn’t easily stripped, especially if you’re applying it over a lighter base color.

How long does henna hair color last?

“Just like any added color, you’ll probably notice some fading and growth at your roots after around three weeks,” says Baum. If you started with a darker base, she points out, it may take you longer to notice your henna disappearing.

To extend your look, minimize how often you wash your hair, as the more often you cleanse, the faster henna will fade. Also, opt for a shampoo without sulfates without sulfates, says Dr. Garshick, because they can strip color more quickly.

How do I color hair with henna?

What You’ll Need:

  • Black T-shirt (or any old T-shirt you’re okay staining)

  • Black or dark towels

  • Wide-tooth comb

  • Bowl

  • Tint brush (optional)

  • Rubber gloves

  • Metal spoon

  • Conditioner

  • Boiling water

  • Shower cap or plastic wrap

Preparation

Coloring your hair with henna can be a messy process. You’ll want to ensure you’re wearing all black or clothing you don’t mind ruining. Henna stains, so if you get it on your nice white blouse, you’ll likely end up tossing it afterward. The same goes for your bath towels—I don’t recommend grabbing the monogrammed ones from your grandmother. She’d likely be upset to find them splattered with brownish-yellow stains.

Says Haliti, start with clean, dry, detangled hair. “It doesn’t need to be freshly shampooed, but it should be free of any buildup of oils, dirt, or styling products that might prevent the henna from adhering properly to the hair shaft.”

Apply petroleum jelly along your hairline and on top of your ears to prevent the henna from staining your skin. And before mixing your entire supply of henna, use a small amount to do a strand test to ensure you’re not allergic and that you’ll like the final result.

Mix Your Color

Each brand will offer slightly different instructions, but usually, you mix the henna—it most often comes in a powder or block—with boiling water. The best way to do this is by gradually adding more liquid to your powder or block, which will dissolve in the hot liquid, and mix it until a paste forms.

You’ll want this mixture to be about the consistency of regular yogurt, which is not quite as thick as Greek yogurt.

Sometimes the henna can thicken a bit too much as you work your way through the application, so I usually keep the tea kettle close by so I can replenish my batch with small splashes of hot water as needed.

Apply Your Henna Mixture

Put on a pair of rubber gloves and start working the mixture into your hair. You can use a tinting brush (which can “minimize mess and allow for more precise application, especially around the roots,” says Haliti), your hands, or both.

For my long hair, I typically start with the brush, painting the mixture onto my roots and bangs. Then I flip my head upside down over the bathtub and work it into the lengths of my hair with my hands.

Wait For Your Henna to Process

After your hair is completely coated, twist it into a bun on top of your head (it will stay in place without a tie because henna is about as sticky as mud and hardens slightly), then cover it with a shower cap or plastic wrap. Haliti suggests leaving the henna in your hair for at least one hour. “Some clients leave it on for up to six to eight hours,” she says. “However, leaving it on too long—more than eight hours—can leave your hair feeling dry.”

Then rinse with lukewarm water and conditioner. Haliti suggests skipping shampoo for 24-48 hours after so the henna can fully oxidize. “Henna appears [more vivid] immediately after rinsing and deepens over the next two days,” she explains. “If you don’t want your color to intensify, wash your hair sooner.”

Special henna hair color tips and “recipes” for you

For covering gray hair:

“Henna can definitely cover gray,” Baum says. Haliti suggests adding some apple cider vinegar to your henna mixture to help disperse the pigment and improve gray coverage. (Rainbow Henna recommends one tablespoon for every two ounces of henna.) Cosmetic chemist Koestline echoes this, saying that adding apple cider vinegar to your henna mixture also “enhances its binding ability to hair keratin, resulting in more effective and lasting coloring.”

For extra shine:

Dr. Garshick recommends Lush Rouge Henna for its conditioning and shine-enhancing properties, which are amplified by the formula’s lemon juice. But you can add lemon juice to any henna mixture to enhance your hair’s shine. “Lemon juice is rich in antioxidants, including vitamin C, which can help amplify shine,” she says. “It also is thought to tighten and flatten the hair cuticles, which can make the hair appear smoother and shinier.”

Best henna hair colors to use

Koestline suggests shopping for henna products that list lawsonia inermis (pure henna) as its main ingredient. You’ll regularly see them formulated with lemon juice, she says, essential oils and herbal powders. Below are some henna hair color brands several of our experts have recommended.

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