Is the Historic Maison Baccarat the New 'It' Place to Eat in Paris?
Twenty years after its transformation by Philippe Starck, Baccarat's Parisian flagship has been reimagined in collaboration with renowned chef Alain Ducasse, as a place of unique experiences, vibrant encounters, and a fusion of art and craftsmanship. Red for pleasure? Red for boldness? The fine crystal manufacturer has called upon a number of extraordinary artists, talented chefs, and visionary designers to join it on its never-ending journey, and with truly magical results!
How do you reinvent a place that has become a true institution through the ages?
This is the challenge that Baccarat accepted and indeed expertly overcame in renovating the private mansion where its expertise is so brilliantly showcased. In 2003, Philippe Starck created a world of glass and mirrors that gave the Hôtel Bischoffsheim, built in 1895 by architect Paul- Ernest Sanson, a whole new dimension. One highlight was a Coca-Cola x Colette evening in the ballroom, featuring Palermo-style decor complete with straw bales and electro music and attended by Paris's beautiful people!
That was no big deal for this very classical Louis XIV- style building, with its sculpted friezes, Corinthian columns, modillion cornices and the like, though. In fact, from the 1920s onwards, Marie-Laure de Noailles, granddaughter of the original owner, hosted anyone who was anyone on the Parisian artistic scene here. Decorated by Jean-Michel Frank, the rooms here played host to the likes of Man Ray, Luis Buñuel, Balthus, Max Ernst, Coco Chanel, Giacometti and Cocteau, a combination of the artistic avant-garde and the wealthy.
Artists invited to reinvent the Noailles Private Museum
When it came to celebrating 260 years of the Lorraine factory, it had to be big, bold, unconventional! Under the direction of Maggie Henriquez, Baccarat decided to "inject some joy and invite people to come and see what life at the mansion, where there are new experiences to of be enjoyed throughout the day, really looks like". And there are certainly plenty of experiences.
Rather than entrusting the whole project to a single architect or designer, the brand has opted for an orchestral approach incorporating a wide range of talents and perspectives, artistic expressions and references. This would, of course, make the process more complicated, but also much more stimulating, as we transition from minimalist spaces, such as the porch adorned with engravings by artist Harry Nuriev and the antechamber with its brutalist accent and stained glass windows by Pierre Tatin, to a neo-industrial style courtesy of Philippe Nigro in the boutique, complete with nods to the crystal manufacturer's furnaces, before encountering the organic forms of Jean-Guillaume Mathiaut's sculptural furniture.
Breathtaking neo-great-century decor in the Ducasse Baccarat restaurant
Designed by Aliénor Bechu and her teams at Volume ABC, Baccarat's dining areas take us into another dimension again. The ambiance in the Ducasse Baccarat restaurant is both timeless and wildly contemporary thanks to a successful face-off between a Grand Siècle decor of marble, medallions and fireplaces, and oak shelves filled with primitive silhouettes, all illuminated by a shower of crystal droplets suspended from a ceiling adorned with a sky of fluffy clouds. Comfortable armchairs and leather-upholstered tables by Pierre-Yves Le Floc'h, Meilleur Ouvrier de France, bring a touch of sensuality to the furniture, which is notably enhanced by particularly high-backed thrones.
Alain Ducasse's talent and tremendous modernity are expressed here through carefully crafted dishes showcasing unusual combinations where lobster dallies with tapioca and rosewater, while the quick service is adapted to what the contemporary foodie is looking for, whether they are in a hurry or have all the time in the world. The honest yet sophisticated cuisine courtesy of Alain Ducasse, Christophe Saintagne and Robin Schroeder, is intended to make for an exceptionally enjoyable experience.
Meanwhile, on the other side of the double doors, the Midi-Minuit bar offers an altogether different experience, plunging visitors into the world of the famous Jean-Michel Frank, whose restored ivory parchment wall decor, together with the complementary leopard print rugs, provides the perfect backdrop to Margot Lecarpentier's rock cocktails, served in Baccarat glassware including the Mille Nuits and Rohan flutes, the Masséna wine glass and the Harcourt tea glass, among others.
You'll find a whole host of options to enjoy as you admire the exceptional pieces from Baccarat's Art Deco heritage collection displayed behind the bar and in showcases around the room. Nothing at Maison Baccarat is forced; everything is there to be enjoyed and explored at ease. Brought back to life by collaborations with various artists, the rebirth of this eminently Parisian venue will gradually be enhanced with new outdoor spaces, including, in spring 2025, a garden bar designed by landscaper Jérémie Attali. There are also plans to offer a varied arts programme, incorporating literature, talks, performances, theatre and music events, bringing yet more joy to those attending. Plenty to keep the passionate red fire burning for a long time to come!
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