The injectables to consider for mature skin, according to doctors
For better or for worse, injectables have quite literally needled their way into our collective lexicon, rocketing in popularity since the early 2000s. Despite widespread campaigning for stricter regulations on who can administer injectable treatments and at what age you can receive them, it's almost as easy to attend an appointment for Botox in your lunch break as it is to pick up a coffee, a state of affairs that's concerning to say the least.
Injectables have become the most popular 'tweakment' among those with both younger and mature skin (The UK injectables market is predicted to reach a value of £11.7 billion by 2026 according to UCL study), with 'preventative' solutions becoming a buzzword amongst the Gen-Z and millennial generations. But an increased interest in anti-ageing treatments comes hand in hand with a growing misunderstanding around what injectables can actually do, what they can treat, and who they're suitable for.
"There’s no universal answer, as the right time varies for each person," explains Dr Marco Nicoloso, medical director at Ouronyx. "Many individuals opt for injectables in midlife to address visible signs of ageing, however, the decision should be based on personal needs and skin changes rather than a specific age."
"If you’re in your 30s or 40s and notice fine lines that remain even when your face is at rest —and if they bother you— this may be a good time to explore injectable treatments," he continues. "The key is to strike a balance by relaxing facial muscles to minimise wrinkles while preserving enough movement to maintain natural expressions and facial support."
Needless to say, when seeking any type of injectable, you should always book in with a medically-trained professional, who will know the correct way to administer the treatment, and should provide you with unbiased advice on whether or not you will benefit from it. If you're unsure where to look, Bazaar's guide to the best UK clinics for wrinkle-relaxing injections can help.
To create a clear and comprehensive guide to injectable treatments for mature skin in particular, we consulted some of the very best aesthetic doctors in the business.
Meet the experts
Dr Marco Nicoloso, medical director at Ouronyx
Dr Yannis Alexandrides, founder and medical director of 111 Harley St
The injectables to consider for mature skin
What is Botox?
Botox, a brand name for botulinum toxin, has become one of the most popular anti-wrinkle injections available. Known for it's ability to 'freeze' the face, Botox is often cited in popular culture and on social media, leading to misinformation around what this injectable actually does.
How does Botox work?
The idea that Botox 'freezes' anything isn't completely correct. Rather, this injectable works to relax targeted muscles in the face (and elsewhere in the body), preventing the movements that cause wrinkles.
"Botox is a neurotoxin that temporarily relaxes muscles by blocking the release of acetylcholine, a neurotransmitter responsible for muscle contractions," explains Dr Nicoloso. "By preventing muscle movement, Botox helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and prevents new ones from forming."
What are the benefits of Botox?
Botox can have multiple benefits when injected in different areas, from 'brow lifts' to relieving jaw grinding. But the most popular reason people seek out Botox is for its wrinkle-smoothing effects.
"Botox can minimise the appearance of dynamic wrinkles – the ones that form when you make facial expressions like smiling, frowning, or squinting," says Dr Nicoloso. This can help to reduce the appearance of crow's feet around the eyes, smile lines, forehead wrinkles, 11 lines and more.
The popularity of 'preventative' toxin injections among younger generations has soared, and while the injectable can potentially delay the onset of wrinkles, it may lead to issues with overuse. "Moderation is key to avoiding over-relaxation of the muscles. Starting anti-wrinkle treatments too early or excessively relaxing facial muscles can lead to unintended consequences," explains Dr Nicoloso.
"Facial muscles provide essential support for structure and volume, and prolonged relaxation may cause muscle weakening over time. This can lead to a loss of definition and support, potentially accelerating the ageing process rather than preventing it."
What is Profhilo?
If you're familiar with the world of injectables, then you've likely heard of skin boosters, a series of treatments that deliver moisture to the skin via injections. Profhilo comes under the 'skin booster' umbrella, working to enhance the appearance of your skin through subcutaneous injections as opposed to adding filler or inhibiting the muscles.
"Profhilo is a hyaluronic acid-based injectable which encourages skin luminosity," explains Dr Yannis Alexandrides. "It hydrates and remodels the skin to improve texture, fine lines and laxity."
How does Profhilo work?
Profhilo is injected underneath the skin in multiple places across the lower half of the face, with the neck also a popular area for treatment. These small individual injections can often result in swelling on the injection site, but will settle down within 24 hours.
Two rounds of treatment are required to reap the full benefits of this skin booster, with additional top-ups recommended at around every three months to maintain its effects.
What are the benefits of Profhilo?
Profhilo has become a sought-after alternative to typical hyaluronic fillers and Botox due to it's minimal downtime and more 'natural' finish.
It's classed as a skin booster due to it's ability to improve multiple aspects of your complexion; the hydrating effects of this hyaluronic-based injectable can make mature skin look and feel more supple and radiant. "The overall effect is plumper, smoother and firmer skin," explains Dr Alexandrides.
What are polynucleotides?
One of the most recent treatments to enter the injectables scene in the UK, interest in polynucleotides is on the increase. Also referred to as the 'salmon-sperm' facial, it delivers subtle but notable rejuvenating effects.
"Polynucleotides are an injectable biostimulator crafted from purified DNA fragments that helps damaged DNA cells in the skin to repair and as a result, the cells function better," explains Dr Nicoloso. "The fragments are typically derived from salmon or trout, and are valued for their regenerative effects on the skin."
How do polynucleotides work?
Polynucleotides are especially suited to treating the delicate under-eye area, which continues to lose volume as we age, but they are versatile in that they can also be injected into the forehead, lips, jawline and even neck.
"To have an effect, polynucleotides need to be injected beneath the skin’s surface using a fine needle," explains Dr Nicoloso. "Once there, instead of directly adding volume to the skin, they work as biostimulators, targeting the fibroblasts, which play a crucial role in collagen production and wound healing."
What are the benefits of polynucleotides?
The injections work to regenerate the fibroblasts cells already present in your skin, which are responsible for producing collagen and elastin. As their efficiency decreases with age, polynucleotides kick start their production and bring back firmness and skin elasticity.
This should result in a marked improvement in the appearance of your skin over time, but you'll also see a difference soon after your first treatment, meaning you can expect both instant and long-term results.
What is PRP?
PRP, or Platelet Rich Plasma treatments might sound like something from the future, but this injectable is very much available in the here and now. Unlike its counterparts, PRP harnesses the client's own blood for its healing, restorative benefits, but it's not a treatment for the squeamish.
How does PRP work?
"Platelet Rich Plasma treatments, commonly known as PRP, are facial rejuvenation treatments which involve collecting a small amount of the patient’s blood," explains Dr Alexandrides.
"This is then spun in a centrifuge resulting in the separation of the blood into different components, one of which is Platelet Rich Plasma which contains a higher concentration of platelets and importantly, growth factors." The PRP is then delivered back into the client's skin via injection and left to work.
What are the benefits of PRP?
The benefits of Platelet Rich Plasma extend to the treatment of injured muscles and joints, but it's become most talked about as a treatment for those seeking skin that behaves more 'youthfully'.
"The cellular regeneration process has great benefits for overall skin rejuvenation thanks to the regenerative effect of this treatment," says Dr Alexandrides.
"The high concentration of platelets, which are rich in growth factors, stimulate the skin's ability to produce collagen and elastin, which in turn reduces the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines over time" he says.
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