An inside look at a premium wagyu butcher shop in NYC
Supremely marbled and infamous for its buttery texture, Japanese wagyu is the ultimate beef experience for many meat lovers. Often cooked tableside, either Japanese yakiniku or Korean barbecue style, premium wagyu is a special occasion meal reserved for dining out and celebrations. But what if you could visit a butcher shop that not only sells wagyu but specializes in careful sourcing and premium presentation, the same as any high-end butcher shop in Japan?
To learn more about wagyu and butchery, we spoke to the wagyu experts. At THE HYUN Premium Butcher Shop, this New York City butcher is conducting wholesale wagyu butchering and combining a unique blend of Japanese and Korean cultural traditions.
“We want to offer our own standards to customers,” explained owner Sang Kim. “And show how the taste of each piece is different even though they come from the same cattle and the same cut (package). Offering an innovative approach to savoring Japanese wagyu that fueled a desire for exceptional wagyu experiences.”
What it takes to run a wagyu butcher shop
At 2,000 square feet, HYUN butcher shop is quite spacious by Manhattan standards. The design of the shop is modern and sleek, more akin aesthetically to a luxury retailer than a typical butcher shop. But the shop is serious business — each month it processes four heads of cattle sourced directly from various prefectures in Japan (Hokkaido and Kagoshima). The cattle are butchered and packaged on-site for retail, wholesale, or e-commerce.
All wagyu here is certified A5, with over 50 cuts (also offal) available. Each is labeled and vacuumed sealed and accompanied by a cooking guide, custom insulated bag, and ice packs. While HYUN is focused on Japanese wagyu, it also features a strong Korean influence. One of these Korean cultural aspects is the Bojagi. The traditional Korean art of gift wrapping, the HYUN Collection gives customers a chance to choose their cuts, which are then placed in a wooden box. This box is then decorated in silk and tassels, giving it an elegant presentation perfect as a gift.
HYUN also runs a restaurant that serves its wagyu. Open since March 2019, HYUN the restaurant specializes in serving the A5 wagyu, now available in the butcher shop. Dining at HYUN is an intense affair, as the wagyu is cooked tableside on a cast iron grill, accompanied by flavored salt, wasabi, kimchi, and various Korean salads. The brightness of the salads and kimchi will be needed since A5 wagyu is so rich — you’ll need the sharp acidity as a palate cleanser.
A guide to HYUN wagyu cuts: What to get and how to cook
While some of the most popular cuts at HYUN butcher shop are familiar, like ribeye or tenderloin, the Japanese butchery also focuses on many unique wagyu cuts, the kind not common in most Western meat shops. “Many customers are still unfamiliar with Japanese wagyu,” Kim said. “Which is why we’re eager to share what makes it so unique and different from other types of beef.”
According to Kim, the most popular cuts at HYUN butcher shop are the loin cuts and chuck flap tail (part of the chuck roll, near the short ribs). Ribeye is, of course, highly desirable for its marbling and flavor, but Kim recommends a different cut. “Flap meat,” Kim explained. “I believe it has its own rich juiciness and a deep, savory aroma from the innards.”
Because A5 wagyu at HYUN butcher shop is so marbled and fatty, the tasting experience is very different compared to standard beef, even USDA Prime. Cuts normally with more textural chew, such as chuck, are tender and buttery. Lean cuts like tenderloin, are normally soft but lacking in fat, are rich. This makes cooking A5 very different than standard beef. The meat cooks fast and because of its high fat content, can quickly shrink or burn, thus smoking up your kitchen. The smarter way is to cook on a lower heat rather than the typical intense heat recommended by standard steak cooking. This allows the fat to render; the meat won’t burn while still giving it a nice crust.
For the best A5 eating experience, it’s best to minimize the spices or sauces. At HYUN, the restaurant serves beef with salt and wasabi. Salt will highlight the beef flavor, while the wasabi bite helps tame the fat of the A5. HYUN does use fresh wasabi, a mild, more complex flavor that is hard to source for your average home cook. Instead, use any commercially available wasabi found in your local Asian market. Just remember to use less since imitation wasabi (found in tubes) is far harsher.
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