The Intricate Art of Wagashi, a Centuries-Old Japanese Pastry

Photos by Kyoko Hamada, Food Styling by Phoebe Ogawa, Prop Styling by Jocelyn Cabral

Rice flour, sweet beans, sugar, and water. These are the humble materials used to make wagashi—painstakingly crafted, bite-size tea snacks once prized by the Japanese imperial court. Practitioners who have trained in the tradition, which dates back to the Edo period (1603–1868), dedicate hours to grinding, kneading, and molding each component. When I first encountered pastry chef Phoebe Ogawa’s wagashi, I was blown away by the intricacy of each tender, miniature creation. The art of wagashi is inspired by the five senses and the poetics of nature. For Ogawa this could mean an ombré sunset adorned with mini dragonflies representing the autumnal equinox, or wisps of pampas grass swaying beneath a harvest moon, or a tiny dew-dappled hydrangea stilled after a long summer rain. Seasonal ingredients are frequently added, too, including chestnuts or persimmons in the fall, sumo citrus in winter, and cherry blossoms come spring.

Here we capture Ogawa’s ode to Risshun, an early February festivity when Japanese households celebrate the first signs of spring and the warmer weather ahead. Perhaps the most beautiful thing about these sweets are their ephemerality. Wagashi are not just a feast for the eyes; they’re meant to be eaten. And you’ll relish every bite.

Originally Appeared on Bon Appétit