Introducing GQ’s 2023 Watch Collector of the Year, Who Wears His Killer Vintage Watches to Bed

Eric Peng Cheng

Over the last few years, one of the most exciting developments in the watch world has been how many collectors have gotten serious about the hobby. The takeaway? The competition for our Watch Collector of the Year has never been stiffer. GQ convened the same panel of experts we polled to determine the brands and watches of the year for one last topic: Who assembled the most exciting collection of 2023? See the top vote-getters below.

Alfredo Paramico, @alfredoparamico

Paramico can post a single picture with more heavyweight grail watches than most people have in their entire collection. “Paramico has the most impressive collection of watches from a very wide range of brands and there isn't ONE that I don't like,” said Robert-Jan Broer, the founder of Fratello Magazine. The range really is impressive: Paramico bounces easily between Richard Mille stunners, gem-set Rolexes, unique Gérald Genta pieces, and arguably the most coveted Patek Philippe in the world. Ben Dunn, the founder of Watch Brothers London, called him “the one-man museum.” Other bullet points on Paramico’s resume: this dude can really lift, and I’ll never forget the time he wore a Louis Vuitton x Supreme hoodie to the auction for Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona.

Jaclyn Li, @a.dose.of.time

This is Li’s second consecutive year near the top of the Watch Collector of the Year voting! “It's not just Jaclyn's prolific collection but her impeccable taste in watches!” said collector and watch photographer Lydia Winters. With Li, it really is the elegance that jumps off the page. It’s like being toured around a tasteful mansion lush with gracefully aged vintage furniture. This quintet of Cartiers makes me feel weak in the knees. But just when you think you have her figured out, you turn the corner and there’s wacko modern art to admire. Listen to Li on “The Waiting List” podcast.

John Goldberger, @goldberger/Auro Montanari, montanariauro

Montanari, who goes by the pen name John Goldberger, is a legendary figure for watch collectors. His massive collection shows an appreciation for deep cuts and very good taste. “Goldberger has always had the most impeccable taste and breadth of a collection that speaks to me,” said Cameron Ross Steiner of Collectors Gene Radio. Arthur Pfister, a vintage watch consultant, wrote simply, “Auro Montanari as always.” This year, Goldberger even gave us a chance to be a little more like him when he collaborated with Furlan Marri on a trio of exquisite watches.

And, without further ado, the GQ 2023 Watch Collector of the Year is…

Eric Peng Cheng, @ericpengcheng

I’m not going to lie: I was very excited to see Cheng emerge victorious here. No one else mixes an appreciation for underrated vintage models like the Rolex Midas or Audemars Piguet Star Wheel with a love for shouldn’t-be-controversial-but-are modern pieces like Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak “Cactus Jack.” Cheng is unwavering in his personal taste and has carved out a wholly unique path in this world. And although he can buy limited-edition Travis Scott watches, he’ll also wear affordable pieces from Unimatic or G-Shocks in equal measure. Several of those watches are the result of collaborations through his own brands, Undefeated and Bait. (I wore his Undeafeated G-Shock frequently this year.) “Eric Peng Cheng continued to bring the heat with his personal collection and his passion was also seen in several watch collabs with his Undefeated brand,” said Sacha Davidofff, co-founder of Roy & Sacha Davidoff S.A. (As a side note: Is Adam Golden, of Menta Watches, the collector kingmaker? After campaigning for eventual winner @Bazamu in 2022, he threw his weight behind Cheng this year.) I spoke with Cheng about this historic win.

GQ: What was your favorite watch pickup of the year? Why?

Cheng: I have two that mean so much to me. The first one is the F.P. Journe anniversary Centigraph (above). It is the final run of the anniversary Centigraph series and it is for the Los Angeles boutique’s 10th anniversary. It means so much to me because one of my favorite people and dearest friend, Laurent Journe, runs the boutique and the Centigraph is one of top-three favorite F.P. Journe references.

Second one is the Audemars Piguet x Travis Scott “Cactus Jack” Openworked Perpetual Calendar. I am a huge fan of AP and the Travis Scott collaboration is next level in all aspects of the project. I’m very honored to be one of the first collectors allocated the piece. Natalie and Kevin from the New York boutique really surprised me with that one, love them.

What’s the piece you wore most this year? Why?

My F.P. Journe Tourbillon. Early T3 in brass movement on an olive smooth leather strap. 38mm case with the tourbillon is so special, yet very low key, and I never feel unsafe wearing it traveling all over the world.

Do you feel like your tastes changed at all over the course of 2023? Was there something unifying about the watches you collected?

I appreciate good designs. I am a collector of watches I feel are important or rare and unique in the history of different brands. My tastes haven’t changed much in 2023. I buy what speaks to me and what I would wear. I have been collecting Vacheron 222s, Rolex King Midas, stone-dial Rolex, among others, before the recent hype on them. For me it’s only about how I feel with the watch on my wrist. It could be a G-Shock one day, an AP or an F.P. Journe another day. Everyday I wake up with a watch I went to sleep with and change into another watch to start the day. I look forward to that.

You sleep with your watches?!

I usually swap watches two times a day. I go to bed with a vintage pre-60s watch. Mostly time-only and 36mm and under. I wake up to put on something with a cool complication, like a Journe or an AP QP. Then mid-day or when I leave the house I wear something that fits the color of my outfit. I have been doing this for as long as I can remember.  I like to have wrist time with all my watches.

Originally Appeared on GQ