Isles of Scilly: discover the abundant joys of island life

Stretches of white sand, clear turquoise blue water, and not another person in sight. That might sound like the blurb in a Caribbean island travel brochure, but save yourself the air miles and jet lag, because it can all be found just a short hop from mainland Cornwall.

The bewitching landscapes of the Isles of Scilly offer a wonderful feeling of tranquillity and a total sense of escapism for those in the know. That's partly because time takes on a strangely elastic quality here – routines melt away, activities are leisurely, and an amble across an island can take anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours, depending on how willing the walker is to take a less well-trodden path.

That said, certain timings do punctuate the otherwise free-flowing days. Most important are the tides and passenger boat schedules, but there are the joys of meal-time hours to stick to, too – and while a trip to Scilly promises abundant opportunities for those seeking adventure, it also packs a punch for foodies craving a bit of indulgence.

What to do

Island-hopping is the order of the day on Scilly. We'd heard that each of the five inhabited islands has a fairly distinctive character, with something different to offer visitors. Many people we met had their favourite, but still wholeheartedly agreed that traversing the isles was the best way to get a feel for them.

We didn't have time to make the trip to St Agnes (a very welcome reason for a return visit), but four days spent between St Mary's, Tresco, St Martin's and Bryher certainly provided a variety of scenery and experiences. So, be sure to check the boat times, pack a bag with supplies for both sunny and wet weather, and head to the quay in time to jump aboard a boat and head out to discover each island for yourself.

St Mary's
The largest and most populated island, St Mary's is at the heart of much activity on Scilly. Penzance Helicopters zoom in and out of its airport, transporting tourists and residents to and from the mainland, while boats steer their way around the busy harbour, ferrying people back and forth to the other islands.

St Mary's is much more than a handy launch pad, however. A walk around the Garrison provides views across Hugh Town and the island's plentiful greenery beyond, but it was the surrounding crystal waters that really appealed.

With a fortuitous forecast on our side, The Sailing Centre soon sent us on our way in a kayak launched from Porthmellon Beach. Undeterred by our evidently novice abilities, Amelia helped us steer a steady course out into the bay, and (as a father-daughter crew primed for both a verbal and literal fall-out), it's safe to say our unscathed state when we returned surpassed everyone's expectations. The team also offers paddleboards, dinghies and sailboats, windsurfing and motor boats for hire, if the skies and your seafaring abilities allow.

Over the road from Porthmellon is Phoenix Craft Studios, a lively hub of activity that's home to six local artists. Our visit fell during the Creative Scilly Festival, a nine-day annual celebration of the Isles of Scilly's abundant artistic talents, so we headed over to an open evening to meet the makers and see their impressive skills on display. We'd see their works crop up again on our travels in the following days – at a maker's market in Tresco, in galleries and even in a number of church windows, in the case of glass artist Oriel Hicks.

Tresco
The second largest island, Tresco feels a world away from the hubbub of St Mary's. It's car-free, and with walkers, cyclists and the odd electric cart having free rein over the roads, the otherworldly low-level of background noise was a healing balm that this city-dweller didn't realise she so desperately needed.

Hire bikes from the shed neighbouring Tresco Stores (provider of essential provisions and a post office) to explore the island's paved paths, switching to the sandier ones if you prefer more secluded bays for sun and sea bathing. It's a pleasant zip around the island, with places to park up should you fancy lunch, a shop or a swim. Things are so relaxed here, you won't even need a bike lock.

The island's star attraction, Tresco Abbey Garden, can't be missed. Give yourself a few hours to explore these enchanting grounds, home to more than 2,000 exotic species from across the world and a number of red squirrels. A team of eight gardeners tend this subtropical oasis, which was first brought to life in the 19th century. Stop by the Valhalla Museum on your way out, too. It showcases 30 figureheads recovered from ships wrecked around Scilly – a display quite unlike anything I'd seen before.

St Martin's
Visitors might find their time on Scilly a peaceful change of pace, but that's a stark contrast to the tireless energies of the thriving communities that are the islands' lifeblood. On St Martin's we chatted to several small business owners who showed us that island life isn't just days at the beach – though we were assured there's a fair bit of that too.

First established in 1996, husband and wife team Holly and James are breathing fresh life into St Martin's Vineyard since taking it over four years ago. The pair have put sustainability at the heart of this impressive operation; it's run without fossil fuels and artificial chemicals – compost and seaweed do the heavy lifting instead. Enjoy a self-guided tour of the fields and an al fresco wine tasting in the charming garden. There's also beer, cider and liqueurs too, so leave space in your rucksack for a bottle or two to take home with you.

We walked along the so-called spine of the island to Lower Town, where Scilly superfans return to Fay Page jewellery year after year. Some add a new, beautifully crafted ornament to their signature charm bracelets, while others invest in an heirloom piece, or simply stop by to catch up with the team. Fay, her husband Rob, and the five silversmiths they have trained make the brand's products from their St Martin's workshop and the family's home, a converted former farmhouse and barn perched on a photogenic corner. It's also just by the Seven Stones Inn, a great pitstop for lunch.

Up the road to Churchtown Farm, the Scilly Flowers team are busy producing and posting the islands' sweet pinks and narcissi across the UK. Scilly's flower growing industry began in the 19th century, and flourished thanks to the region's unique climate. It's a tradition continued today by growers and partners across the islands – we were told the oldest picker they work with is 98 years old – and gives visitors a way to share the magic of Scilly with friends and family at home, simply through a quick online order.

Bryher
It probably took longer to board the Firethorn's passengers than for the boat to make the journey from Tresco to Bryher; the islands are so close that you can walk from one to the other at low tide. Runners who are up for a challenge can sign up to the Scilly 60 Tide Race this August, a half marathon between Tresco, Merrick and Bryher, with the added pressure of not getting cut off by the tides.

If Tresco feels calm, Byrher is serene. Home to fewer than 100 people, it's an island of rugged beauty, with wildflowers, toughened greenery and almost entirely deserted coves. Children's author Michael Morpurgo has visited the island each year for more than 45 years, he told the i news site in 2019, and has set several books here. It's easy to see where he gets his inspiration.

Following the procession of visitors up from the quay, we headed for a foggy ramble around Samson Hill, and were rewarded with views across the island's dramatic landscape. Along the rocky island's edges and wild paths, we got a real sense of the contrasting terrain. And, just when we'd been totally absorbed and lost all sense of time and place, we'd stumble on a small business or artist's studio, a welcome reminder of the uniquely Scillonian spirit of those who live on the islands.

Where to stay

As Scilly first-timers, we found St Mary's an ideal starting point – and there's surely no better place to begin such a trip than Star Castle Hotel. Built on Garrison Hill in 1593, today's guests have a perfect vantage point across the isles and surrounding sea; sunset was a true treat. The hotel has 38 elegantly designed rooms, and guests can choose to stay in the gardens or in the castle itself, which is where we found ourselves. Our room was fantastically characterful, with a huge original fireplace, window seating with harbour views, and a sizeable en suite. It's safe to say I'd happily have not checked out had that been an option.

Dining at Star Castle is a must. Depending on room location, guests are served a hearty breakfast either in the conservatory restaurant or the castle dining room, with hot and cold dishes to set you up for the day.

As we headed out, the team asked if we would like a lobster for dinner. I really had no choice but to say yes – and what a delight when dinner came around. Caught fresh each day by the hotel’s owner, Robert, and served as a starter or main, it's a showstopper. With a glass of champagne to accompany it, and a delicious duck breast to follow, I thought things couldn't get better. But they did: the evening was topped off with a locally distilled gin and tonic served in the dungeon bar – a far more welcoming watering hole now than it was for prisoners some 400 years ago.

We jumped forward in time somewhat when we headed over to stay at The New Inn on Tresco. Its 16 rooms have recently been refurbished, and beautifully so. With a sea view from ours, decorated in calming blues, pinks and neutrals, it was a charming place to tuck ourselves away and refresh after a day of exploring, before we wined and dined the evenings away.

Luckily, we didn't need to wander too far for that. The New Inn is the island's local, with space for everyone that lives and stays on Tresco, it seems. That's not to say the space is crowded – rather, it's testament to the thoughtful design of the restaurant and bar areas. Guests can enjoy a drink over a board game, newspaper or book in the lounge area (which quickly became my favourite nook), while the terrace is perfect for a sundowner.

We enjoyed dinners in the airy pavilion restaurant and the more traditional snug. In both, the food and service were impeccable. The menu had all the seafood classics you'd hope for; a sumptuous chowder, crispy Cornish cider-battered fish and chips and, of course, lobster, caught with traditional pots by local fisherman Jof Hicks. We loved the small plates and bites too: confit pork belly rillettes, haddock fritters and grilled goats cheese were moreish and perfectly portioned. And just when you think there can't be room for more, a gorgeous sticky toffee pudding is served, and there's no going back. That's until breakfast the next day, at least, when there's somehow still room for a full Scillonian.

Where else to eat on the islands

The food does not stop there. On The Quay on St Mary's is, you guessed it, right on the harbour, with an impressive menu that covers a range of tasty solo and sharing dishes. My pan-fried hake with mussels and bisque was deliciously balanced, even if somewhat upstaged by other tables' impressive skewers of seafood and sizeable mezze platters. It’s a light and airy space with great views and a warm atmosphere in an unbeatable location.

Lunch at Tresco's Ruin Beach Cafe is a must. A big outdoor table, freezing cold lagers, and crispy thin pizzas overlooking a white sand beach with not a single person on it – what more could you want? It's a truly idyllic setting and we enjoyed it so much we came back the next day to while away a few more hours over coffee and mezzes. And though we stopped by a little too early in the day for cocktails, they would certainly be on my to-try list on a return visit. Mine'll be a sea samphire margarita or a Trescotini.

And after a stomp across Bryher, our appetites happily returned by the time we reached the award-winning Hell Bay Hotel, Scilly's highest-rated restaurant. We enjoyed lunch soaking up the midday sun on the terrace – and while larger plates like bouillabaisse, the signature beef burger and a cauliflower flatbread sounded fantastic, it was the sandwich menu that caught my attention. The Cornish crab sarnie came as a doorstep wedge with almost double the crab to bread ratio – just as it should be, and completely sumptuous.

It probably goes without saying at this point, but you truly won't struggle to find a fantastic meal on Scilly. Everywhere we ate had daily specials as well as seasonal, regularly changing menus. Portions are generous, produce is more often than not locally sourced. And, as something of a caffeine snob, I'm pleased to report we didn't have a single bad coffee on Scilly.

How to get there

Ease into a less hurried and more luxurious travel mode before you even arrive at the Isles of Scilly by taking the Great Western Railway's Night Riviera Sleeper from London Paddington to Penzance.

With first-class lounges at both stations where you can enjoy complimentary refreshments before your journey and freshen up with a shower afterwards, and with an on-board lounge serving snacks and drinks, it's a relaxing and unique way to make the journey down to the southwest. Compact and comfortable cabins can accommodate one or two passengers, with a sink, wardrobe and plenty of luggage storage. Train staff are on hand to welcome first-time sleeper passengers, and will brighten your wake-up call with a warm breakfast too.

St Mary's and Tresco are just a short hop from Penzance, and there really is no better way to arrive than with Penzance Helicopters. Passengers get a generous luggage allowance of 20kg, and the welcoming crew ran us through everything we needed to know before the short and spectacular flight.

Not a single passenger was able to keep their phone camera in their pocket as we flew into St Mary's. And even after four days of photographing the islands, the same was true on our return from Tresco, with the added bonus of spotting some iconic Cornish sights like the Minack Theatre and Mousehole harbour too.

For those who prefer to stick to the water, the boat from Penzance takes just under three hours, with regular crossings throughout the day.

The verdict

Several people we met told us that they make an annual pilgrimage to Scilly. For some, it was the continuation of a childhood tradition that brought fond memories. Others described discovering the islands later in life, and how they quickly became a much-treasured destination.

At the start of our trip, that sounded like a lovely prospect. By the end, it was one I had come to completely understand. Scilly, and the remarkable people that strike up a life like no other there, really is a place like no other. Just be prepared for the inevitable pull to go back.

Julia O'Driscoll's trip was facilitated by Visit Isles of Scilly. She was a guest of Star Castle Hotel, where rooms start from £229 per night B&B, and Tresco's The New Inn, where rooms start from £221 per night B&B. Flights to and from the islands were facilitated by Penzance Helicopters; adult tickets are £144.50 and children's £108.