The Jewelry Lover’s Guide to Washington, DC
Several years ago, when researching my book on jewelry history, I got on a train to DC in search of a legend. I knew, in order to finish my project, I needed to stand in front of the Hope Diamond. Which is when I realized that this mythical, possibly cursed, exceedingly rare Golconda was the least of it. To my surprise, I discovered, DC is a jewelry town.
We can begin with this legendary blue, housed in a case and room all its own in the National Gem and Mineral Collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History. Brave the crowds and take it all in, and chart its wild route to Washington. And then move through the gallery. There are iconic stones here and important lessons in history. Which emerald Cartier necklace was purchased by an American client during the Depression? That pink variety of beryl was named after which American financier? Is that sapphire is really 423 carats? And how did the Marie Louise Diadem end up being set with turquoise?
That last question sets you up perfectly for the next jewelry stop. That diadem was acquired by Marjorie Merriweather Post and the diamonds that were in the original were replaced with Persian turquoise (she donated it to the museum). Hillwood, Post’s own home, is now an excellent house museum with her extensive collections of jewelry and furniture and objects on display. Some prefer it to the Smithsonian (I say the two together are a perfect DC jewelry afternoon). Devon Caraher, a jewelry lover and historian who now lives in Washington—and who I first met when she worked at vintage jewelry mecca Stephen Russell—is a Hillwood superfan.
“Post was a serious collector of imperial Russian art, 18th-century French decorative art, and jewelry. What I love is the way her jewelry (most of which was commissioned) is displayed in her ladylike dressing room,” she says. “Note the stenciled wallpaper when there. The jewelry display is rotated on a bi-annual basis, so (fingers crossed!) you may get a glimpse of the carved emerald and diamond pendant brooch Post commissioned by Cartier London in the 1920s. In my humble opinion, it’s one of the most extraordinary works of 20th-century art. If you are lucky enough to see the brooch, take a moment to study the emeralds—their size, lush green color, carvings, and inclusions (not heat-treated). The jewel is a stunning example of how Cartier combined Eastern and Western materials and ideas to create something novel and innovative, which has become a hallmark of Art Deco design. Post’s love of this brooch is evident in a famous portrait that hangs just outside her dressing room—sitting with her daughter, she is wearing a silk gown draped in jewels.”
After taking in Post’s excellent taste and eye, and her role in history, walk around. “The grounds at Hillwood are just as drool-worthy as the jewelry, so here’s my advice: stroll the gardens and linger over lunch,” Caraher says. “Naturally, even the museum cafe matches Post’s refined taste—everything is delicious.” I have a particular weakness for Post’s extensive collection of Imperial Russian artifacts—Catherine the Great’s dishes, Empress Alexandra’s nuptial crown, all those Fabergé eggs. How did they end up here? Post’s third husband, Joseph E. Davies, was ambassador to the Soviet Union, and she began collecting the art of Russia’s powerful imperial rulers when she and her husband arrived there in the 1930s.
Necklace and earrings with amethysts, turquoise, diamonds platinum, and gold.
Emerald and diamond brooch.
Diamond, sapphire, and platinum necklace.
For a more modern American take on what jewelry is, or should look like, let’s go back and head to the National Gallery’s East Building, home to the largest collection of Alexander Calder. “The National Gallery has several jewels—including a crown—which are woven into a spectacular Calder installation. Though Peggy Guggenheim might have displayed the jewelry differently, I think she nonetheless would have appreciated the assemblage of decorative, fine, and sculptural works of art,” says Caraher, who also suggests: “When your body needs refueling, resist the urge to settle for the museum cafe. Instead, take the nine-minute walk (while also taking scenery) to Stephen Starr’s recently reopened Occidental restaurant and collapse into one of their sumptuous, circular banquettes. The crab stuffed avocado, which is interpreted literally, is the perfect light lunch.”
There are, of course, amazing places to take in historic jewels behind glass in DC but there are also excellent places to buy some of your own. I always make sure to visit the Tiny Jewel Box, a family business almost a century old that carries established and young designers but is also famously where Madeleine Albright bought some of her pins. Ask them about that gold serpent she wore and its Saddam Hussein connection.
Secretary Albright speaking at the 2016 DNC
Her bugs.
Her butterflies.
Her boats and her favorite: a clay heart made by her daughter at age five.
Caraher also has favorites. “Cady’s Alley is my go-to spot in DC. t’s home to a terrific lunch spot (Kafe Leopold for the kale salad), Jewelerswerk Galerie (so many handmade treasures!) and Relish, which offers a remarkable mix of Maria Bello’s goldwork, Parts of Four silver, and Rosa Maria’s eye-catching stones, and the only Dries Van Noten and Sofie d’Hoore you will find outside of NYC. (Seriously.) Ann Hand is nearby but, warning, it is appointment only. Last spot: Boone & Sons. It’s a multi-generational jewelry store that you can rely on for anything—buying, selling, cleaning, and repair. Ask for Nellie when you visit.” You can tell her we sent you.
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