Go-to Knitwear Designer of Phoebe Philo, Jonathan Anderson, Martine Rose Launches Brand

LONDON — Throughout her 20-year career as a knitwear designer, Emma Jethwa was a kind of ghostwriter, tailoring her designs to the unique brands she worked for, including Phoebe Philo’s Chloé, Burberry and JW Anderson.

But a recent move to Ireland with her partner and two kids prompted the designer to create a language entirely of her own: her new knitwear brand, Asme.

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“I found it really, really hard to start my own thing,” Jethwa said. “I think going to work for another brand is much easier because you have your parameters. When I had to sit down on my own and say, ‘Right, what am I going to do now?’ It made me think about who I am and my own tastes.”

Examining her English and Indian roots and new home on Ireland’s windswept west coast provided a wealth of inspiration.

“My upbringing was based on humor. I think that’s very English — to try and make light of certain situations through jokes. From my Indian side, I definitely love a little bit of bling and bright colors,” Jethwa said.

The result was a debut collection featuring lush, handmade scarves and a cape. A twinkly Lurex scarf inspired by the tinsel strung up in India, especially during Diwali, and a scarf made from cashmere and Lurex.

The lighthearted, multicolored scarves are made from pure Italian wool and resemble feather dusters or characters from “Fraggle Rock,” with dense bursts of long yarn.

“It’s scary, having to put yourself out there. It becomes very personal because it’s about your own style,” Jethwa said.

She said the reception has been overwhelmingly positive, especially after Alexa Chung, whom she used to work with, gave a shout-out to the brand on Instagram.

Soon, magazines and stylists began reaching out, asking to use her scarves in photo shoots. The scarves range from $106 to $370, and are available to purchase on asmeknitwear.com.

Despite the surge in demand, Jethwa remains focused on slow, sustainable production.

Jethwa doesn’t plan to release full clothing collections any time soon, and is instead concentrating on carving her niche. For her, the joy of Asme lies in working with her hands again, and creating pieces that excite her.

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