Lip Shapes, Explained: How to Identify and Enhance Your Natural Pout

Jeff Vespa/Getty Images. MIKE COPPOLA/Getty Images.

Did you know there are several types of lip shapes? For too long, I didn’t either. But as it turns out, knowing how to find yours can be a super-useful beauty tool.

Much like determining undertones for lipstick shades or color seasons when choosing hair dye, lip shapes provide simple guidelines as to which makeup techniques and cosmetic procedures will work best with your unique look. This is especially important for anyone considering lip filler; contrary to popular belief, you really can’t (and shouldn’t) copy-paste a pair of lips you like onto your own face. Not everyone is meant to have extremely large lips.

“Patients are realizing that you can’t just ‘borrow’ a celebrity’s lips with a quick-fix office treatment,” Renata Khelemsky, MD, a double board-certified facial cosmetic surgeon and the founder of RENATA Facial Cosmetic Surgery, tells Glamour.

As a result, she’s seen fewer trend-driven requests and more focus on specific lip features that people like. “Now, the most common requests are to achieve certain lip proportions,” she says. “Typically, people ask for a 1:2, 1:1, or sometimes a 2:1 ratio between the upper and lower lips.”

That’s where the various lip types come in. “Many are inspired by celebrities like Angelina Jolie or Rihanna, who have famously well-defined, voluminous lips,” says Ramtin Kassir, MD, a triple board-certified facial plastic and reconstructive surgeon and the founder of Kassir Plastic Surgery. “However, enhancing lip shapes with cosmetic procedures is a precise process that varies depending on the type of lips you’re starting with.”

The truth is, not everyone’s face is meant for lips like theirs. So before you try to emulate your favorite celeb or influencer’s pout, it’s best to get to know yours first.

Lip shapes, FAQs

• What are the different kinds of lip shapes?

• How to enhance your natural lip shape

• How to make thin lips appear fuller

• Is it possible to correct uneven lips with makeup?

• Can lip shapes change over time?

• How to start a lip-care routine

Ahead, see everything you need to know about lip shapes from how to find yours to the best tips for elevating them, as explained by plastic surgeons and makeup artists. And remember: Each and every lip shape is beautiful. No set is “better” than another.

Lip shapes

Full lips (1:1)

According to Jamie Greenberg, celebrity makeup artist and the founder of Jamie Makeup, full lips are the best known and most common lip shape. “This is when the upper and lower lips are equally plump,” Greenberg says.

“Celebrities often serve as great examples for different lip shapes,” adds Dr. Kassir. Some examples known for their full, balanced lips, include Jolie, Lori Harvey, and Scarlett Johansson.

Heavy upper lip (2:1)

Another well-known shape is heavy upper lips, says Greenberg. “This is when the upper lip is fuller than the lower lip,” she says. Dr. Kassir points to Rosie Huntington-Whiteley as a perfect example.

Heavy lower lip (1:2)

“Heavy lower lips are when the lower lip is fuller than the upper lip,” says Greenberg. Some examples of this lip type include Lana Condor and Sofia Vergara.

Round lips (1:1)

While round lips are full, not all full lips are round. (Some are wider, which we’ll get to soon.) In this case, round lips are naturally plump and create an O shape. It gives a youthful and sensual appearance, says Dr. Kassir. Kerry Washington and Jung Ho-yeon both have examples of full and round lips.

Heart-shaped or Cupid’s bow lips (2:1)

“Heart-shaped lips have a defined Cupid’s bow on the upper lip, which gives them a soft, romantic feel,” says Dr. Kassir. “Taylor Swift is a great example of heart-shaped lips, with a pronounced Cupid’s bow.” Rihanna is another beloved example of a pronounced Cupid’s bow.

Thin lips

“Thin lips are more delicate and can create a refined look, though some people might seek to add volume for balance,” says Dr. Kassir. They also look great on people whose faces naturally have them. For example, “Emma Watson’s lips, while thinner, suit her elegant and classic look,” he says.

Wide lips

As noted above, full lips are not all the same size or length. Case in point: wider set lips. “This type is longer and can be less full,” says Greenberg. See: Julia Roberts and Rosario Dawson as examples.

Downward turned lips

“Downward turned lips lips face slightly downwards, as if the mouth was pouting,” Greenberg explains. Brigitte Bardot famously had downturned lips! Other examples of the look include Simone Ashley and Aubrey Plaza.

Asymmetrical lips

“Asymmetrical lips, where one side or the top and bottom lips don’t perfectly match, can add unique character,” says Dr. Kassir. “However, many people choose to correct this for a more balanced appearance, often through cosmetic treatments.” That said, sometimes cosmetic treatments are the cause of uneven lips.

Either way, they can look amazing. “For asymmetrical lips, Kristen Stewart’s slightly uneven lips showcase how natural imperfections can enhance a person’s individuality.”

Pouty lips

Now we’re moving into cosmetic territory, as pouty lips are customarily achieved with filler. “The pouty lip, as popularized by celebrities like Kylie Jenner, emphasizes fullness in both the upper and lower lips for a more voluminous, lush appearance,” says Dr. Kassir. Like Jenner, Teigen has been open about her use of cosmetic procedures. “Everything about me is fake except my cheeks,” she once said. “I’m not shy talking about that sort of thing. I have no regrets.”

Some people call them “puffy lips,” adds Greenberg. “These are basically ‘bee stung’ lips and similar to the look of the full lips,” she says.

Russian lips

One of the most popular lip shapes in the cosmetic world right now are Russian lips. “They’re doll-like lips with a pronounced Cupid’s bow,” says Greenberg.

According to Dr. Kassir, this filler technique focuses on enhancing the natural peaks of the upper lip, creating a well-defined and symmetrical look. We have no idea know if Tessa Thompson or Sabrina Carpenter have had any cosmetic procedures, or just naturally have the shape, but they can serve as inspiration for the look.

Tented lips

Finally, the “tented” lip creates a more pronounced center on the upper lip, resulting in a gently arched and voluminous look, according to Greenberg. This is another common look achieved with lip filler. Again, we don’t know what exact cosmetic procedures, if any, Fox or Bieber have done—rather, they’re here to serve as an example of the tented lip shape.

How to enhance your natural lip shape cosmetically

Lip filler

While you can always use filler, it’s important to start slow. “When enhancing lip shapes, I recommend taking an incremental approach and staying close to the patient’s natural starting point; for instance, if their lips are a 1:1 ratio, I suggest maintaining that proportion,” Dr. Khelemsky explains.

She suggests beginning with a slight volume increase, followed by any small enhancements to the lip proportion. “For clients with aging lips, I always take the time to evaluate the dental show and height of their smile, as it determines whether fillers or surgery will better achieve their goals,” she says.

Injectables

That Insta look doesn't come cheap.

Lip flip

“If you’re more concerned about lifting the upper lip rather than just adding volume, a lip lift might be the right choice,” says Dr. Kassir. “This surgical procedure shortens the space between the nose and upper lip, making the lips look fuller without injections.”

On the less invasive side, a Botox “lip flip” can subtly enhance your upper lip by relaxing the muscles around it, creating the illusion of fuller lips without adding volume.

I'm in my lip BBL era.

How to choose the best technique

“The goal, whether you’re lifting the lip or enhancing it with fillers, is to create a concave, shorter upper lip that shows a balance of red lip and teeth,” Dr. Kassir explains. “To achieve this, if someone has a long upper lip, a surgical lip lift is often the best option. For those with a naturally shorter upper lip, this effect can be done more conservatively with fillers.”

How to make thinner lips appear fuller

“You can achieve the look of full lips by mastering how to overline your lips,” says Greenberg.

First, choose a liner that is the same shade as your natural lip color. Then, “overline at your Cupid’s bow to give that full look,” she says. “Using a nude lipstick will make your lips look fuller, since if you use a color that stands out against your skin more, your lips will look smaller. Choose a nude lipstick color that is a few shades darker than your natural skin tone.”

Finally, if you want your lips to appear fuller, Greenberg recommends topping it off with a gloss instead of perfecting a matte lip. “The light reflecting off of the gloss will make your lips look fuller,” she says.

Make Up for Ever Artist Color Pencil: Eye, Lip & Brow Pencil

$20.00, Amazon

MAC Lustreglass Sheer-Shine Lipstick in Syrup

$25.00, Ulta

Jamie Makeup The Bloss

$26.00, Jamie Makeup

Etienna Ortega Liquid Icon Hyper Gloss

$18.00, Ortega

Is it possible to correct uneven lips with makeup?

“Yes, you can correct uneven lips with makeup,” says Khelemsky. “Lip liner is particularly effective for addressing small asymmetries. Also, makeup is an excellent tool to experiment with subtle adjustments to lip ratios.”

To enhance the Cupid’s bow, outline just above the peaks, she says. “For the lower lip, applying liner centrally and toward the sides helps create a fuller look, which you can fill in with lipstick,” she says. “A 1:1 ratio can be stretched into a 2:1 or 1:2 ratio simply with careful lining and filling.” To emphasize a central pout, use a light-reflecting gloss in the middle of the lower lip, while darker shades on the outer edges add depth.

Kosas Hotliner Hyaluronic Acid Contouring Lip Liner

$22.00, Nordstrom

Etienne Ortega Soft Contour Lip Liner in Cinnamon Girl

$16.00, Ortega

Can lip shapes change over time?

Yes, lip shapes can—and do—change over time. “Over time, lips tend to get thinner as the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid decrease,” Greenberg explains. “However, it is usually genetics that play a role in your lip shape and fullness.”

There are some ways to maintain your lip shape, though. “An analogy I often use is: If the lips are the photo, then the skin surrounding them is the frame,” says Dr. Khelemsky. “Just as a damaged frame can decrease the appeal of a picture, aging skin can detract from the appearance of the lips. Both require attention and care to ensure they complement each other and create a youthful, harmonious look.”

How to start a lip-care routine

Plastic surgeons’ advice for keeping your lips looking youthful? “For a complete lip-care routine, start with a hydrating lip balm that includes SPF to protect your lips from sun damage—an essential step for everyday care,” says Dr. Kassir.

“I recommend a weekly exfoliating scrub and daily long-lasting hydration,” adds Dr. Khelemsky. “One of my top choices is the Sugar Lip Polish Exfoliator by Fresh, which effectively hydrates and buffs away dry, flaky skin while leaving your lips moisturized.” Finally, for intensive moisturizing at night, be sure to use a nourishing lip mask.

Cay Skin Isle Lip Balm SPF 30 with Sea Moss and Aloe Stem Cells

$15.00, Amazon

Fresh Sugar Lip Polish Exfoliator

$15.00, Sephora

Laneige Lip Sleeping Mask

$24.00, Amazon

Tatcha The Kissu Lip Mask

$28.00, Tatcha

Danielle Sinay is the associate beauty editor at Glamour. Follow her on Instagram @daniellesinay.

Originally Appeared on Glamour