The luxury Rome travel guide: where to eat, drink and sleep
Rome is a complicated place, but all the best cities are. What every great urban metropolis has in common, from Paris to London to New York, is contradiction. They are unified in their multiple personalities, and it’s this complexity that makes a place brilliant. You can’t create fire or heat without friction, and you can’t create a great city without tension. The trick to navigating any metropolis is finding a way of feeling its heat without allowing it to burn you. Rome comes at your every sense; Caravaggios for the eyes and cacio e pepe for the taste buds.
The first thing people tend to do when they talk about Rome is moan about it. “It’s full of tourists,” they cry. “The Trevi fountain is too crowded to enjoy.” Visitors and locals alike complain about over-tourism, and it’s true that the city is on most people’s travel bucket-lists. The reason, of course, is that it is one of the most enduring and awe-inspiring cities in existence. There is more to admire here than most places in the world – you just need to go beyond the obvious to see it. This guide is based on recommendations from locals themselves, or those who have either lived in the city or spent considerable stints there. When in Rome, do as the Romans do; live how they live and you won’t go wrong. From the best restaurants and wine bars to little-known, unmissable galleries, start planning your trip to the Eternal City here.
Best Restaurants
Sora Margherita
Around 15 minutes' walk from the crowds of the Trevi Fountain in the Jewish district sits Sora Margherita, a traditional Roman trattoria with handwritten menus. This unassuming hole-in-the-wall with paper-covered tables outside is home to one of the best restaurants in the city. It would be a mortal sin not to try the cacio e pepe, a classic Roman dish, that when done right is one of Italy’s finest gifts to humanity; peppery, cheesy, silky strands of deliciousness. At Soro Margherita, it is perfect and that perfection attracts locals in their droves. You’ll probably end up sharing your table, creating a communal, convivial atmosphere. Inside, the restaurant walls are decorated with perhaps hundreds of notes of appreciation from grateful customers and glowing press coverage dating back decades. Soro Margherita is also known for its Carciofi Alla Giudea – deep fried artichoke, a Jewish-Roman specialty – so make sure you add that to your order. Piazza delle Cinque Scole, 30, 00186 Rome
Osteria Da Zi Umberto
For buzziness, ivy-lined alleyways and terracotta-toned historic buildings, head to Trastevere, a bustling neighbourhood that sits next to the River Tiber. Make a beeline for Osteria Da Zi Umberto, a lively trattoria offering authentic food and warm service. Try the pasta amatriciana, another typical Roman dish, with tomatoes and guanciale, and soak up the atmosphere on the square before finishing off your evening with a complementary amaro digestivo. Zi Umberto has no website so either call ahead to book, or take a chance on the night. Piazza di San Giovanni della Malva, 14/b, Rome
Osteria La Quercia
Sit under the giant oak tree after which Osteria La Quercia was named and enjoy outstanding food away from the crowds. Although only minutes from the usually packed Campo de' Fiori, the restaurant offers tranquility as well as truly great meatballs, carbonara, and tiramisu laden with chocolate biscotti. All ingredients are sourced from Lazio-based farmers and fishermen. Refined, yet informal, the decor has a calming aesthetic, with dark green wood panelling and marble details. There is no English menu here (usually a good sign), so be prepared to use Google Translate. Piazza della Quercia, 23, Rome
Best Shopping Destinations
Emporio Centrale
An independent boutique dedicated to everyday Italian objects, Emporio Centrale is the place for Roman souvenirs truly worth investing in. From vintage espresso cups and Venetian velvet slippers to artfully made wooden pasta bowls and silky hand creams, this concept store has a pleasingly Labour and Wait feel. Its offering is not only beautifully presented, but also thoughtfully curated. Largo del Teatro Valle 1, Rome
Borghetto Flaminio Flea Market
The first of its kind in Rome, Borghetto Flaminio Flea Market was set up in 1994 and is known for its impressive range of second-hand designer clothes. There is a one-euro entry charge which gives visitors access to rails upon rails of vintage Prada, Missoni and Gucci at more budget-friendly prices. Open every Sunday, the market – located a 15-minute cab ride from the city centre – requires an exacting eye and a serious love of rifling. Alongside the designer clothes, expect vintage posters, antiques and second-hand homewares. Piazza della Marina, 32, 00196 Rome
Via Margutta
The picturesque, narrow cobbled street of Via Margutta has a weighty cultural history; not only was it once home to the legendary film director Federico Fellini, but it is also where part of the classic '60s film Roman Holiday was shot. Truman Capote resided here briefly, as did Picasso and Puccini. Today, it is still an idyllic oasis, but now houses a number of art, antique and fashion boutiques (including a well-designed branch of Marni). Don’t miss Il Marmoraro, a tiny 60-year-old workshop selling hand-engraved marble plaques like the one that marks Fellini’s house further up the street. Sandro Fiorentino, who took over the business from his father, will also engrave a message of your choice upon request. Via Margutta, 00187 Rome
Best Hotels
Hotel Eden
Hotel Eden is the epitome of Italian luxury. A five-star hotel offering the very best in accommodation, service and food, if you’re searching for pure decadence there is no better option in Rome. Walking into its gilded hotel lobby, adorned in frescoes, is to enter a refined, cushioned world that’s truly difficult to leave. The beds are cloud-like, the views of the city panoramic and the staff are warm, attentive and full of expertise. The rooms are decorated in honey and cream tones with the softest of carpets, Bang & Olufsen televisions and high ceilings that make the space feel even bigger. The bathrooms are equally elegant with fixtures all made from beautiful curved marble. From the furnishings to the Bottega Veneta bath products, there is no detail that hasn’t been carefully considered.
Guests are given the ultimate dining experience at its Michelin-starred rooftop restaurant, Il Giardino, which – in addition to the prestige food, which is as bountiful at breakfast as it is at dinner – offers spellbinding vistas; the sunsets here are unforgettable. Not only are the concierge staff deeply knowledgable about their city, they also really listen to what their guests want, offering recommendations that avoid crowds or the obvious. It is also surprisingly child-friendly; our one-year-old was given his own bijou baby bath tub, changing mat, bath toys and beakers, and was welcomed warmly by all staff. It is no wonder so many legends have stayed here, including Elizabeth Taylor, Sean Connery and Ernest Hemingway, many of whom have framed signed pictures leading up the stairs to the restaurant. Eden by name and by nature. Via Ludovisi, 49, 00187 Rome
W Rome
For a more contemporary approach to luxury, stay at the W Rome. Set across two united historic palazzos, W opened its Roman outpost in 2021 to much fanfare. In a city often accused of living in the past, the W offers modern and sleek accommodation. Vibrant colour, print and art all take starring roles, with plenty of eye-catching sculptures and unexpected graphic details. The rooms are spacious, mixing traditional decadence (for example a red velvet curtain) with bold colour and arresting wall prints. Dining options are plentiful; its Giano restaurant spills out onto a leafy courtyard, or there’s a rooftop pizzeria and bar. The renowned pastry chef Fabrizio Fiorani has a space inside the hotel too, where you’ll find mouthwatering sweet treats. The jewel in W Rome’s crown is its Wet Deck and bijou rooftop pool, which offers the perfect way of cooling off in the scorching Roman heat. Open from April through to October, the pool is open to guests only, so you’re always guaranteed a sun-lounger from which to sip a cocktail after a day’s exploring.
Don’t miss the secret garden (ask the staff for the location) – an intimate, secluded outdoor space with a kissing bench and marble fountain. The W prides itself on being a cultural and social destination, so expect DJ sets, rotating art exhibitions, live music and wellness events. Buzzy and youthful, this is where the international cosmopolitan come to rest and play. 26/36, Via Liguria, 00187 Rome
Best Bars
Il Goccetto
One of the city’s oldest wine shops, Il Goccetto is a cocooning, wood-panelled wine bar that spills out onto the streets in the summer months. Inside it’s stacked floor-to-ceiling with wine bottles, many of them vintage, but its daily menu (look at the chalk board inside for details), offers high-quality options to suit all budgets. Order one of its generous antipasti platters and settle in for aperitivo hour/s. Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 14, 00186 Rome
Beppe e I Suoi Formaggi
The perfect spot to indulge, Beppe e I Suoi Formaggi specialises in gourmet cheese and wine. Situated in the Jewish district, this narrow space is run by Piedmont cheese-maker Beppe Giovale, whose produce is available to buy at the deli and to eat at one of the neighbouring tables with a glass of wine or two. Via di Santa Maria del Pianto, 9A, 00186 Rome
Roof Garden Les Étoiles
Take in 360 views of the Roman skyline from the rooftop garden at Hotel Atlante Star. Come for coffee, cocktails or Sunday brunch as you gaze at the Vatican and St. Peter's Basilica. Elegant and luxurious, it’s a perfect spot for getting dressed up and watching the sunset before perhaps descending to the lower terrace for fine dining. For a more low-key, leafy rooftop alternative, make a beeline for Angelina in Testaccio, which offers cocktails and excellent food in a stylish setting. Via dei Bastioni, 1, 00193 Rome
What to see
Villa and Galleria Borghese
The largest public park in Rome, Villa Borghese is a relaxing reprieve complete with a lake, fountains and sculptures. Head towards Galleria Borghese, an unmissable gallery housing a breathtaking array of baroque art. Crowds are heavily controlled, so it never feels overrun nor cramped. Highlights come by way of Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s masterful sculptures and Caravaggio’s awe-inspiring paintings. Look out for rotating exhibitions too: Louise Bourgeois’ arresting, political works were on show during my visit.
The Galleria Doria Pamphilj
You could walk past The Galleria Doria Pamphilj and miss it, yet inside sits Rome's largest private art collection. Acquired by the Doria, Pamphilj, Landi and Aldobrandini families who were united through marriage, the artworks on show in these opulent rooms range from sculptures to paintings. Frankly, the frescoes are worth the price of the admission alone, but don’t miss the Raphael, Velázquez or Bernini. The Caffè Doria on the ground floor, set around the courtyard, is also a tranquil place for a coffee or pastry. Via del Corso, 305, Rome
The Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea
Rome might be famed for its history, but Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea proves that it is forward-thinking, too. Despite boasting Italy’s largest collection of modern art, it is often overlooked in favour of better known attractions. The building alone is a feast for the eyes, a beautiful 17th-century monastery not far from Villa Borghese. The paintings and sculptures, which span Paul Cezanne to Jackson Pollock, are organised thematically, rather than chronologically, which makes it a joy to wander round. Viale delle Belle Arti, 131, 00197 Rome
Mercato di Testaccio
Focused largely on food, the indoor Mercato di Testaccio is an essential visit, and where Romans come to source fine produce. Bakeries, fishmongers and delis sit alongside as well as traditional stalls. Don’t go home without sampling some of the takeaway food options, with a special mention for the sandwiches at Mordi e Vai. Mercato di Testaccio is worth seeing, even if you don’t have a kitchen, but there are also homeware and clothes stalls on the east side for non-foodie options. Via Aldo Manuzio, 66b, 00153 Rome
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