Maria Koch Played It Cool for 032c’s Fall 2025 Collection
032c designer Maria Koch was on the hunt for new inspiration this season, and found it in mountain climes.
For a collection titled “Suspicious Minds,” Koch looked to the ancient rituals held each winter in alpine countries, in which people don costumes to ward off evil spirits.
More from WWD
French Culture Minister Pledges New Measures for Young Designers
Ed Westwick Talks New Show, Anuel AA Lets Slip New Album Plans at Amiri
“People dress up like monsters to get rid of the old and make room for the new,” she said. “It’s a hopeful thing.”
The talismans were evident in her use of jewelry representing teeth and horns, and Koch pulled from the traditional dress of the region. She reinterpreted dirndls as bustier dresses and Loden coats in new forms for this coed collection.
It’s here that Koch elevated her tailoring game, honing the fit on figure-hugging dresses with full, swingy skirts, high-necked hunting blazers and architectural outerwear.
The crisp fits were complemented by more voluminous shapes in icy white. She experimented with texture here in Neoprene overlaid with bouclé wool and a chalk coating for jackets that looked like they had been sculpted from snow, as well as silver lamé cardigans layered over sparkly hoodies for a frosty shine. Modern mountain wear was represented in parkas.
Koch also stayed true to her love of the super-skinny silhouette on bottoms, this season in a satin cargo version, though pantsless looks felt passé. The ‘80s concept of power dressing meant women were donning menswear without cultural context, and her version counters. “I like this idea of power dressing with a very sexy, constant and slim silhouette.”
She presented lots of faux fur looks in black and brown, and a series of fuzzy coats with baby deer speckle emphasized the collection’s balance between innocence and menace. It was all engineered to a soundtrack of ’80s German punk. Thirty-two degrees in Fahrenheit may be freezing, but 032c played it cool.
Launch Gallery: 032c Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Best of WWD
Sign up for WWD's Newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.
