Mipel Attracts International Buyers, Exhibitors Face Higher Costs
MILAN — In her first interview as the new president of Assopellettieri, Claudia Sequi was upbeat about the 124th edition of Mipel for spring 2024, held at Rho Fieramilano fairgrounds, as she revealed a new travel section for next February.
“Throughout 62 years, the fair consolidated its preeminence in the eyes of international buyers looking for finished bags,” said the first woman to become president last July. “I have been attending the fair with the family company [Pelletterie Claudia nearby Florence] for 40 years, and many things have changed. Today, a careful selection has been made, thanks to the work started by my predecessor, Franco Gabbrielli. The over 200 brands represent some of the best small companies producing their collections for the season,” she said of Mipel, which ran from Sept. 17 to 20.
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Buyers from Spain, the U.K., France, Japan and the U.S. stood out, with an increased presence from Africa, particularly Gabon and Nigeria, a market Sequi is looking at with interest after African representatives started joining Mipel in the last two seasons. However, this edition’s main initiative was the debut of a small area dedicated to luggage.
“This is just a preview, already enhanced by an important brand like Brics,” explained Sequi, “and starting from February 2024, a whole section will be dedicated to the travel world.”
Regardless of the leather goods fair’s good vibes, a survey on the first half of the year for Assopellettieri by Confindustria Moda Study Center was cause for concern. An overall 9.5 percent increase in sales achieved among the members interviewed includes a 13.8 percent gain in the first quarter, followed by a sharp slowdown in the second, which closed up 5.3 percent, down by more than three points compared to the forecasts made by the entrepreneurs last April.
“The sector suffers from economic uncertainties, the costs of energy and raw materials. However, most of all, we are worried about the huge difficulty in finding manpower,” Sequi said. In the next 10 years, 7,000 to 8,000 people will leave their jobs due to reaching their age limits or returning home. They represent about 20 percent of the current workforce, a number that the sector must replace.
“During our States General scheduled in Florence in October, we will announce important training activities. We also need to change our narrative and make young people understand how rewarding, challenging and profitable it can be to enter this sector. It is essential to protect, maintain and pass on to future generations our heritage and know-how,” Sequi continued.
Stefano Giacomelli, Assopellettieri vice president and chief executive officer of Tivoli Group, shares the same opinion. “Recruitment is a crucial issue for us. Big companies have their schools. We organize some courses, but they are not enough. We have to do more,” he said. Tivoli had sales of 55 million euros in 2022, up 10 percent on the previous year.
As for the trends, there’s a return to soft leathers, often dyed in warm colors. The shapes, consequently, got looser, thus replacing more structured models. Products made with recycled or recyclable materials are still a big focus. However, they are not replacing bags made with more traditional leathers, which remain the event’s core.
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