How to find the right moisturiser for an oily complexion
Finding your holy-grail moisturiser can be a trial-and-error endeavour, but when you have oily skin, dipping in and out of brand-new bottles comes with heightened risks. What works perfectly for your dry-skinned friend may bring you a fresh batch of breakouts, or leave your forehead and nose prone to midday shine. Conversely, you may find an ultra-mattifying, oil-free formula actually leaves you looking more oily after a few hours of wear.
Does oily skin need a moisturiser?
But those with oily skin shouldn’t skip the moisturiser altogether: skin that appears to possess an abundant oil supply still needs hydration: oil and water are two separate things. "Patients with oily skin do tend to have a slight aversion to moisturisers, often arising from the false belief that they need to dry their skin out completely," says consultant dermatologist and founder of skin clinic SELF London, Dr. Anjali Mahto.
However, depriving your skin of moisture will only cause it to create even more sebum to try and counteract the dehydration, which is why the right moisturiser is still essential to keep oily skin healthy. "Moisturising helps to regulate oil production," confirms Dr. Mahto.
Is 'non-comedogenic' the answer?
Rather than going without, the trick is to use a moisturiser for oily skin, specifically developed to give you everything you want (a softer, clearer complexion) with none of the bugbears (a greasy forehead or breakout-peppered cheeks). Oily and combination skin types will generally fare better with whipped, gel or water-cream textures that sink in quickly without leaving an occlusive layer on the skin. "Look for the words 'non-comedogenic' on the packaging: this essentially means 'non pore-clogging,' so oily skin types will generally find that these moisturisers are suitable for their skin," advises Dr. Mahto, who counts hyaluronic acid and glycerin as her go-to ingredients.
But while ‘non-comedogenic’ certification can indicate you’re on the right path, don’t get bogged down looking for a product that claims to be ‘oil-free’: while some oils are indeed known to induce breakouts, not all are created equal. “It might sound counter-intuitive, but oil-based formulas can help to regulate sebum production, thus reducing oiliness over time,” says A-list facialist Sarah Chapman. She recommends looking for jojoba oil, which has been found to be around 97 per cent similar in structure to the skin’s natural sebum. Rosehip oil is another good option for oily skin.
Moisturiser for oily skin: what to look for
Texture-wise, look for lightweight lotions, gels and water creams which will feel the most comforting and refreshing. Scan the back of the bottle for oily-skin heroes such as niacinamide, salicylic acid, and the skin-kind oils mentioned above. To streamline your routine, you can also just use a moisturising sunscreen such as La Roche Posay Anthelios UVMune 400 SPF50 by day, reserving your moisturiser for nighttime. Below, see the moisturisers for oily skin the Bazaar team recommend.
The best moisturisers for oily skin
Effaclar Duo+M Moisturiser
If your oily skin often comes with a side serving of breakouts, head straight to La Roche-Posay's targetted moisturiser. It's supremely light in texture, with a gel-like consistency, and contains the holy trinity for acne-prone skin: niacinamide, salicylic acid and zinc.
Shani Darden Hydration Peptide Cream
Glowy-skinned celebrities such as model Lily Aldridge and actor January Jones turn to facialist Shani Darden for that A-list glow. Her Retinol Reform is a cult favourite, but this oil-free moisturiser is brilliant for those with combination to oily complexions. It's loaded with peptides to smooth out fine lines and niacinamide to keep the barrier happy. The lightweight texture sinks in instantly without clogging pores and it's gentle enough to be used alongside your hard-hitting active serums.
Oskia Violet Water Hydra Gel
The Violet Water range by Oskia specifically aims to tackle blemishes and acne scars without upsetting the skin barrier. It does this by coupling anti-inflammatory niacinamide and brightening lactic acid with soothing camellia extracts and ingredients to support the skin's natural microbiome.
Paula's Choice Calm Rescue and Repair Weightless Moisturiser
For skin that's gone through overzealous use of salicylic acid or is just prone to sensitivity, the Calm range from Paula's Choice is the answer. There's nothing in here to irritate a compromised barrier, just plenty of soothing skin conditioners such as allantoin and mushroom extracts along with lightweight hydrators.
Kate Somerville Hydrakate Recharging Water Cream
Oily skin can be dehydrated: the two are not mutually exclusive. You'll likely be able to see if dehydration is an issue for you: peer closely at the surface of your skin, noticing if it crinkles into fine crepey lines as you move your muscles.
If so, you need something high in humectants to draw water back into those thirsty uppermost layers. Loaded with hyaluronic acid and glycerin, yet still watery in texture, Kate Somerville's tall glass of complexion-quenching water is ideal.
Byoma Moisturizing Gel Cream
From the founders of prestige tanning brand Tan-Luxe comes Byoma, an accessible skincare line that has all the essentials for a reliable everyday regime. This lightweight moisturiser is designed to keep oily skin in check: ceramides bolster the barrier, niacinamide keeps blemishes at bay, and green tea offers antioxidant power.
Hyaluronic Marine Oil-Free Moisture Cushion
This one contains a low dose of exfoliating lactic and glycolic acids, so will refine skin texture and eliminate dead skin cells while keeping your complexion cool and hydrated. Algae lends hydration-boosting benefits, grabbing moisture and holding it within the skin.
Glossier Priming Moisturizer Balance
Designed to minimise the look of overly enlarged pores (rather than obliterate them altogether), Glossier's lightweight moisturiser calls on niacinamide and witch hazel to achieve its impressive results.
Summer Fridays Cloud Dew Gel Cream Moisturizer
Another gel formula, this one feels as light as water on application, and has a loyal following amongst the acne-prone. Hyaluronic acid has your hydration covered, but it's the inclusion of ceramides that makes it such a great barrier-booster, fortifying the skin surface without feeling heavy.
Biossance Squalane and Probiotic Gel Moisturiser
The Biossance brand is based around squalane, an sugarcane-derived emollient that has a very similar make-up to human sebum, meaning it works to prevent moisture loss without clogging pores. With a light gel texture and bacteria-balancing probiotics, this moisturiser is an easy win for the oiliest of skins.
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