Your next mini break needs to be St Andrews
As we settle into autumn, at the top of my list to get me through the colder months is a quick trip away to embrace the highlights of the season. But rather than heading across the channel for a carb-filled weekend in Paris, or flying to Stockholm for a true Scandi winter, how about a wholesome weekend in St Andrews, Scotland?
The underrated university city, where Kate and Wills fell in love, is the ideal place to blow away the cobwebs and start getting excited for winter. With quaint cafes, a world-famous beach and tree lined streets full of history, it’s the perfect place to spend 48 hours.
Where to stay
Old Course Hotel, Golf Resort and Spa
St Andrews is a big golfing town and the Old Course Hotel, which is just a few minutes walk away from the centre of town, overlooks the 17th hole of the Old Course, well-known as the world’s oldest golf course. And, like me, even if you’ve never played a round of golf, you can’t help but be pulled in by the history of the place you’re staying in.
The actual hotel has a tangible welcoming energy, offering 175 rooms, all of which vary in design. Some are classically decorated, while others have a modern flair. Whichever room you opt for, you can be sure the beds will be beyond comfortable, it'll have the most stunning of bathrooms, and of course, there will be a golf reference in there somewhere. The rest of the hotel is full of wood paneling, large leather chairs and excellent mood lighting, making you feel cosy 24/7.
There’s eight bar and restaurant venues at the hotel, and breakfast is served in the Road Hole restaurant, which offers both a buffet option and an a-la-carte offering. Make sure you don’t leave without trying the pancakes.
And for all the budding golfers out there, when booking into the hotel there are different booking options that allow you to guarantee at least one round of golf on the Old Course.
Book a stay at the Old Course Hotel
What to do
Go on a beach walk
As well as being famous for its sporting history, St Andrews is also known for being the filming location for the most famous scene in Chariots of Fire. The infamous running down the beach scene was filmed at West Sands beach which backs onto the Old Course. If you’re staying at the Old Course Hotel, you can see it from your window in the morning.
Depending on the tide, you can walk the full two mile length of the beach, or run it if you want to reenact the famous scene. The hotel that features in the movie is also situated in St Andrews and is part of the Old Course Hotel. It now functions as private apartments you can rent.
Go cold water swimming
While at the beach, why not start your day with a guaranteed way to wake yourself up - cold water swimming? The Old Course Hotel offers guests dry robes to borrow if you want to brace the chilling North Sea and go for an early morning dip. Just remember to pay attention to your breathing and don’t spend too long in the cold water; just three minutes will give you the desired dopamine effect. There’s also a tidal pool near the castle, which is well worth a dip in.
Explore the history of the town
As the birthplace of golf, the site of Prince William and Kate Middleton’s meeting and centuries of religious history, there’s a lot to learn about this small city. So much in fact, that I’d recommend booking into a walking tour. I’m not one who usually books onto a tour, preferring to explore at my own pace, but our group did one with Val Eglinton and couldn't recommend it more.
Val’s tour incorporated teaching us about the history of the Old Course including the famous bridge where the golfers take their iconic pics (ask your dad, it’s like a really big deal), before moving on to learn the history of why the cathedral is now in ruins, a visit to the cliff-side castle and learning more about the traditions of St Andrews University.
Go shopping
For a small city, there’s a lot to occupy your time if you like hitting the shops. One of my favourite stops was at Topping and Company, an expansive bookshop with an incredibly carefully curated selection of books and the highest number of signed editions I’ve ever seen. Oh, and they also offer complimentary tea and coffee for you to drink while browsing - actual bookworm heaven. There’s also the famous Johnstons of Elgin, who create some of the best cashmere in the world. And make sure to stop by Spoiled Life, a coffee shop/curated homeware and fashion store
Chill in the spa
Kohler Water Spa is located in the Old Course Hotel and is available for hotel guests to use and open to the public for day passes. The spa has recently undergone a revamp and with its light and marble style the spa is ideal for spending a few hours relaxing. It includes a swimming pool, and a guided thermal journey which includes a sauna, steam room, experience showers, and a cold plunge pool. As well as the luxury bookable spa treatments, the spa is also home to the Espuro Foam Experience Steam Room in the UK.
Where to eat and drink
Jannettas Gelateria
This fourth-generation Italian family gelateria is a St Andrews institution, and you literally cannot leave the city without trying their ice cream. There’s over 20 flavours and classic Scottish toppings, including crumbed shortbread and sticks of tablet.
Jigger Inn
The Jigger Inn, which is rumoured to be haunted by a friendly ghost FYI, is a classic haunt (pardon the pun) and dates back to the 1850s, when it was once a station master’s house. Now, it’s known for its pints of Jigger Ale and classic pub grub. It’s cosy and the perfect place to haul up on a windy wet afternoon. I’d highly recommend the fried chicken burger and the ragu on toast.
West Deck
For evening drinks there's no better place to head than the West Deck, which is located on the far side of the Old Course Hotel and open to the public. With its string lights and igloo style pods, you can enjoy a drink outside no matter the weather. Make sure to order from their cocktail menu (you need a watermelon margarita) and get a selection of small plates (parmesan truffle fries and oysters) to snack on while the sun goes down.
Little Italy
For a low-key evening meal, head to Little Italy in the centre of town. It has an extensive offering of affordable pizzas and pastas, and is beloved by both tourists and locals, oh and Avengers director Joe Russo.
Swilcan Loft
Located at The Old Course Hotel, but open to the public, the boujie restaurant specialises in seafood and steak, but more than anything you cannot leave the restaurant without trying the bread rolls with cultured butter - honestly life changing. After you've died and gone to carb heaven, splash out on the seafood platter for two or a delicious chateaubriand for two.
Things to note
St Andrews is just over an hour's drive from Edinburgh Airport, and you can get regular flights to Edinburgh from a number of airports in the UK.
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