How often should you actually be using retinol?
When it comes to skincare, good things take time. We’re all guilty of impatiently waiting to see the benefits of adding a step to our nightly skincare routines, no matter if it’s using a new vitamin C serum, or double cleansing for the first time. The same goes for trying out retinol serums, moisturizers and eye creams.
Retinol is perhaps best known for its ability to fade acne scars and smooth fine lines. But if there’s one thing to know about this potent ingredient, know this: It’s definitely not your quick fix, overnight remedy. Retinol is all about the long game—you’ll reap the most benefits with consistent use. So, if you’re trying out retinol for the first time, how often should you actually be using it?
What does retinol do for your skin?
Retinol is a type of retinoid, a derivative of vitamin A that supports skin cell turnover and boosts collagen production, says Dr. Joshua Tournas, a dermatologist with Banner Health.
If you’re new to the world of retinoids, here’s how they work: Our skin relies on collagen for elasticity, strength and structure, but once you’ve reached your mid-to-late 20s, collagen production begins to decline. As the years pass, you’ll start to notice more fine lines and wrinkles, and a visible loss of firmness in the skin, per Cleveland Clinic. Topical retinoids target collagen production and induce the rapid turnover of skin cells, revealing a new, fresh layer of skin. This helps soften fine lines and wrinkles, fade acne scars, and promote a more even complexion, says Tournas.
As retinoids go, you’ll likely see the best results by using a prescription-strength product like tretinoin, tazarotene and adapalene, Tournas says. But, if your skin is prone to dryness and irritation, there are other options to consider: In 2016, the U.S. Food & Drug Administration approved the over-the-counter sale of Differin 0.1% Adapalene Gel. Serums, creams and moisturizers infused with retinol are also widely available over the counter. Research shows retinol offers similar benefits for treating fine lines, hyperpigmentation and acne scars, though it’s far less potent than other kinds of retinoids.
In case you missed: Sephora kids are mobbing retinol, anti-aging products. Dermatologists say it's a problem
How often to use retinol
Ultimately, this depends on the strength of the retinoid product, and your skin’s sensitivity. To see how well your skin tolerates the retinoid, it’s best to start using it incrementally. Many people are able to tolerate using a prescription-strength retinoid two to three times a week, says Tournas. From there, if you’re not experiencing excessive dryness, peeling and redness, you could work your way up to using the product every day. This same logic applies to using retinol products. However, because retinol is lower-strength, you might be able to use it a bit more frequently than if you were to use a true retinoid, Tournas adds.
Consistency is key, because it could take several weeks of using retinoids before you actually start to see noticeable results. If anything, your skin might actually look a little worse than before—but fear not, it’s temporary, Tournas assures. Not everyone experiences the “retinol purge,” but for those who do, expect breakouts, redness, peeling and increased skin sensitivity. This flare-up typically subsides within a few weeks, revealing brighter, clearer skin, he says.
Good tips: Skincare routines can feel complicated. Here's how to build one that works for you.
What shouldn’t you use with retinol?
If you're going to add retinol (or any other type of retinoid) into your nightly skincare routine, avoid products containing exfoliants like glycolic acid, lactic acid and salicylic acid, suggests Tournas. Salicylic acid is a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid) that unclogs pores and helps prevent acne from forming, per Healthline. Glycolic acid and lactic acid are AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) that promote an even complexion, reduce hyperpigmentation and soften fine lines.
All three ingredients offer significant benefits for skin brightening and skin texture, but also tend to be irritating to people with sensitive skin. Throw a retinol serum into the mix, and you could be left with even more skin irritation, Tournas notes.
Here’s what you should do instead: After washing your face, apply a small, pea-sized amount of retinol serum. Allow it to soak into your skin before applying any other serums (such as vitamin C or hyaluronic acid). Then, follow it up with a bland, gentle moisturizer free of exfoliating actives—this will help hydrate the skin, and protect against dryness.
This article originally appeared on USA TODAY: How often should you use retinol?
