The Parisians Who Left Paris During the Olympics—and Those Who Wish They Stayed

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Paris est une fête! Especially during the Olympics. The French title of Hemingway’s legendary memoir A Moveable Feast is an apt encapsulation of what can only be called a dramatic vibe shift in the French capital in the last few weeks. Indeed, Paris is a party. The opening ceremony elated even the most hardened of local skeptics of the Olympic Games—locally: les Jeux Olympiques, the JO. Since then, the city has been suspended in a Disney-esque euphoria; the JO is now a multi-week carnival of good cheer.

But this wasn’t always the mood in town. In the last year, the messaging from our leaders fostered cynicism about the Olympics. Posters in public spaces and transport stations strongly advised locals to work from home and avoid ordering food online; we were told that traffic and zoning restrictions would heavily impact deliveries. Public transport costs were to double, and doomsayers within the RATP and President Macron’s cabinet warned at the end of 2023 that navigating Paris would be “hardcore.” On top of all that, the first half of 2024 was rife with political tension —and not to mention that Olympic ticket prices were extortionate.

Faced with the promise of overcrowding, security threats, and restrictions left and right, it’s no surprise that locals like me planned to flee. Before it all kicked off, British friends reminded me that they experienced similarly pervasive negativity in the run-up to the 2012 London Olympics, but all of it was swiftly replaced by joyful celebration. Had I taken them at their word, I might have stayed in Paris—with or without tickets to the sporting events.

Then the Olympics finally came. Events and public transport have been running smoothly. Everyone, from the police to the metro workers, has been jovial. The energy in Paris has been nothing short of electric. I watched the opening ceremony from a plum (and dry) perch overlooking the Pont Neuf—but soon after, I still left the city in favor of the French countryside, staying in a place near Burgundy. Still, I have been watching my two countries, France and the United States, win big with great pride—from afar.

Hindsight is always 20/20. Now that it has all played out, I regret not leaving room to adapt our plans, to maybe even stay in Paris for just a few days, to sample just a bit of that Olympic excitement. I wondered: Are there other Parisians who feel the same way? I asked eight locals whether they stayed in Paris or left, and if they regretted not taking in the Olympics up close.

To feel the Olympic joy, one doesn’t need to be in Paris

“I left a few days before the opening ceremony and was in Paris for just one day during the Olympics. I started in Puglia because I love this part of Italy and wanted to swim and write without distractions. Then I went to Les Vosges, a region in the east of France where my dad is from, to spend time with my sisters and close friends. My travels weren’t designed to escape the Olympics, per se. I needed some real time off before my team went on holiday, so it was more like, Oh, good timing—I also won’t be there for the big mess. I don’t regret the decision to leave at all. I had a great time. Also, it allowed me to defend the opening ceremony abroad. (I was asked twice by people in Italy, ‘Why The Last Supper?’ I was able to tell them, first of all, it was actually a banquet on Mount Olympus; and secondly—and this, I relished telling them—we love our drag queens in France.) I don’t think I’d do anything differently: I loved the build-up, the grumbling, and the joy, and I think you don’t need to be in Paris to feel it!” —Fanny Boucher, jewelry designer and founder of Bangla Begum

→ Read our guide to the best of Puglia, Italy, in the off season

When Paris empties, it’s easier to find stolen moments of quiet in the city

“I was really excited to be staying in Paris for the Olympics, not only for the events themselves but because I was eager to see how the city would feel. I generally try to stick around in August; I love the way Paris empties and you get to have a stolen moment with the city. With all the predictions of end-times chaos and nearly every Parisian having decamped for Marseille or Puglia, that feels especially true this year. I was lucky enough to have been invited to the opening ceremony by a friend who worked on the Olympics. With the rain and the long waits, I expected your typical Parisian exasperation, but the crowd was disarmingly joyful, despite it all. And as France continues to rack up medals, I’ve enjoyed witnessing the intensity with which seemingly casual Olympic observers have thrown themselves into each new sport. Walking through the Marais a few days ago, I was surprised to discover that the unanimous eruptions of cheers from all the cafés—a fever pitch usually reserved for the World Cup—was for the men’s judo quarter-final! It seems that we’re all fleeting but fervent fans these days. My only regret is that, in the three days I had to leave the city for work, I missed the cycling events which passed right below my apartment window!” —Nicolas Maiarelli, founder of the non-alcoholic aperitif brand Iessi

→ Read our spotlight on Paris’s transformation into a cycling-first city

The best way to see the Olympics is on TV; you get all the best angles

“My husband and I left Paris with our kids to go to Lavaux in Switzerland; Zonza in Corsica; Les Portes-en-Ré, a village on Île de Ré; and then a stop in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat in the South of France. Part of the idea was to visit someplace new with friends visiting from abroad. And while we definitely didn’t want to be in Paris for what we assumed would be chaos, we usually leave every July and August anyway, taking our computers and working from wherever we are. I wouldn’t have minded being there for a little bit to see it all come to life, but I don’t really regret my decision at all. I actually prefer watching the events on TV because I can see all the angles! And I’m still reading and listening to everyone talk about how exciting it’s been. Originally, the plan was to stay gone the whole summer, but then my husband started to get FOMO and felt like our kids should have a chance to experience the Olympics in their city. So he bought last-minute tickets to see an event with the kids. I, however, am staying put!” —Ajiri Aki, author of Joie: A Parisian's Guide to Celebrating the Good Life and founder of the homeware brand Madame de la Maison

→ Read our list of the best hotels in the South of France and the French Riviera

The locals of Paris get to experience the magic of the French capital year-round anyway

“June and July are critical working months for me. My Parisian life is always punctuated with weekly travel plans to different site locations in Europe. So by early August, I’m desperate for a break. During the Games, that meant leaving the city for work and then for relaxation. I was lucky to participate in one of the first celebrations of coming together as a city in early June, with the staging of the artsy skateboard exhibition The Skateroom x Hôtel de Crillon, a Rosewood Hotel with the help of creative genius Sarah Andelman. We brought on a selection of brilliant artist collaborations that The Skateroom placed in unexpected locations of the hotel facing Place de la Concorde, where the Olympic skate park is located. That said, I didn’t feel any FOMO because I belong to this crowd of happy Parisians who get to appreciate the city’s atmospheric charm year-round. And my love for the Olympic spirit can’t compare to my desire to sail straight into the heart of the myths in Greece. With my husband and sons, we’ll be sailing along the Ionian Sea, island-hopping from Paxos, Zakinthos, and Ithaca as the competitions come to a close.” —Aline Asmar d’Amman, architect

→ Read our guide to the best Greek islands to visit in 2024

If sporting events like the Olympics aren’t for you, there’s no need to force the fervor

“I left with part of our family just before the start of the Olympics and went to Portugal for four weeks. Initially, the idea was to avoid the Olympics; we figured Paris would be too crowded and too complicated to navigate (we live in the 2nd arrondissement). We chose the Sotavento in the Algarve because an acquaintance was renting out his house, so it was the perfect opportunity to visit a spot I had long dreamed of visiting. And it’s also true that I’m not a big fan of the Olympics, in general. I wouldn’t have changed our summer plans for an event that doesn’t interest me as much as it speaks to others. Two of our kids stayed for part of the Olympics and found it super fun, festive, and very well organized. From what I’ve watched from afar, I have reasons to be proud to be French! But I don’t regret being away. I don’t think I’m the target audience for Olympics fever!” —Emilie Molinero, photographer

→ Read our guide to the best beaches in Portugal

The Olympics are a memorable experience Parisians have shared with family and kids

“My wife and I decided to stay in Paris for several reasons; a major one is to enjoy the Olympics and take advantage of all of the activities that the city organized around it. Typically, we go to California for nearly the whole summer (my one big break of the year) and enjoy our time with my family where I grew up. This year, we're going to Contis, a spot in Les Landes known for surfing. We’ve been several times. We have friends there, and it kind of makes me feel like I’m in California. That’s as close as I will get this year, and I’m okay with it! It was cool to be at the opening ceremony and really, the Olympics are a once-in-a-lifetime event. With my kids, we danced on the Seine, and it didn’t even matter that it was raining. The atmosphere in the city since then has been unreal. It was important for us that our kids experience it and have that memory as they get older. We’ve been going out to the fan zones with them almost every night and we also took them to see a table tennis competition. All in all: No regrets!” —David Simonson, landscape architect

→ Read our feature on the Olympic surfing competition in Tahiti

Locals have fallen in love with Paris all over again during the Olympics

“I left Paris! I’m part of the privileged few whose flexible work allows for summer breaks. I spent my holiday in the South of France with friends along the Côte d’Azur and then at my other friend’s family home in French Catalonia, close to Spain. Since moving to Paris, I’ve spent each summer out of the city, in France. It has a special je ne sais quoi that I love. Still, friends who stayed in Paris for the Olympics said the vibe was amazing, and they fell in love with the city all over again. I watched the first week of events on TV and definitely felt some regret. If I could plan all over again, I would have organized my holiday differently. But French commentators told us for months that it would be a disaster, and I think that stopped many people from looking forward to Paris 2024. Luckily, I’ve rearranged some plans to be in Paris for a few days while the Olympics are still going strong.” —Guillaume Sardin, artist

→ Read our guides to the best of Paris: restaurants, bars, hotels, and more

Despite the sense of FOMO, there’s always Los Angeles 2028 to look forward to

“My husband and I left the day of the opening ceremony because, like many Parisians, we thought staying would be chaotic. We were also both encouraged at work to take our vacation during this time. For the entire Olympic Games period, we’ve been road-tripping through the eastern part of France and Italy (Liguria, Tuscany, Umbria). I know this is what we needed, but I also regret not being there for part of the experience. Realistically, I don’t think I’ll ever regret going on vacation! Still, I do have a bit of Olympic FOMO, especially seeing some of the incredible venues and all the women making history. I wish we could’ve attended a few games, but tickets were a bit complicated to get when they were first released, so we gave up and planned to leave. My husband is a big rugby fan, but it wasn’t until I discovered the American rugby player Ilona Maher that I started caring about the sport. I feel like the Olympics brings out the best in people, so I am sad to miss that. I’ve been living for all the memes, though! And there’s always Los Angeles 2028 to look forward to.” —Daniela Cadena, content strategist

→ Read our guides to the best of Los Angeles: beaches, brunches, things to do, and more

Originally Appeared on Condé Nast Traveler

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